Almost like summer

0645: SUPs rule!

Hello Friends,

Fine and mostly sunny all day is the forecast for Sydney. Wind is light and variable now but it will swing around to the NE and build up to a summery 10-15kts. What would be really good is if we could have some swell to go with the conditions. It’s not quite flat, but the conditions are pretty marginal. The MHL Sydney buoy is showing about a metre of SSE 8 sec period windswell. This is pretty close to what we saw yesterday morning, so I reckon my usual advice applies: if you found something there yesterday, check it again today.

Looking at the other buoy reports, it does seem that if you head south of Sydney the swell doesn’t get any bigger, but the period gets up into the 10 second range. If you’re up along the beautiful northern coast, periods are about the same as Sydney, but average heights are around the 2 metre mark.

Checking this morning’s fresh batch of long range forecasts, it looks as though we’re in for more of the same through the weekend (no change there). The south pulse set for early in the new week is still showing on the models, but there are various interpretations – some are estimating it will barely affect us in Sydney while at least one is calling for around 12 hours of 2 metre, 10 sec period south swell. If I had to take a punt, it’d be for the early on Tuesday. Just for fun, here are a couple links to previous reports: if the pessimists are closer to the mark and Tuesday morning sees 2 metres at 8 seconds from the south, it might be like this, or, if the optimists are right and the period’s more like 10 sec, maybe this will be closer to the mark…

Have yourself a top old day!
PS: Do you have any favourite surf blogs? Do you write a surf blog? Why not send me a link and if I dig it too, I’ll give it a mention in my report!

TG’s Forecast

Surf forecast issued Thursday 25 September 2008: 5 day outlook for Sydney:

Fine weather, small surf, and cool water…

Friday: less than 1 metre North East.

Saturday: about 1 metre East North East.

Sunday: early Southerly change but don’t expect too much from it…coming up to about 1 metre East South East.

Monday: about 1 metre early on at places that like dead South swell, then coming up to 1-2 metres.

Tuesday: in the 1-2 metre range dead South. 

Water temp is around 18.

Weather from the Bureau:

Forecast for Thursday evening
Fine. Light to moderate northeast winds, fresh near the coast.
Precis: Fine.

Forecast for Friday
Fine. Sunny. Light to moderate northwest winds, turning northeasterly during the afternoon, fresh at times near the coast.
Precis: Fine. Sunny.

City:         Min:  11 Max:  24   Parramatta: Min:   7 Max:  26
Terrey Hills: Min:   9 Max:  23   Penrith:    Min:   7 Max:  27
Liverpool:    Min:   6 Max:  26   Richmond:   Min:   5 Max:  26

UV Alert: 8:40 am to 3:00 pm, UV Index predicted to reach 8 [Very High]

Saturday Fine. Sunny.

City:          Min:   14  Max:   25
West:          Min:   11  Max:   31

Sunday Fine.

City:          Min:   16  Max:   24
West:          Min:   12  Max:   28

Monday Fine.

City:          Min:   13  Max:   21
West:          Min:    9  Max:   21

Tuesday Fine.

City:          Min:   11  Max:   23
West:          Min:    5  Max:   26

Wednesday Fine.

City:          Min:   12  Max:   23
West:          Min:    7  Max:   29

Thursday Fine.

City:          Min:   15  Max:   25
West:          Min:   11  Max:   29

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Thursday until midnight: Wind: E/NE 10/15 knots.Sea: about 1 metre. Swell: SE 1 to 1.5 metres.
Friday: Wind: N/NW 15/20 knots increasing to N/NE 20/25 knots in the afternoon and evening. Sea: 1.5 to 2 metres. Swell: E/NE about 1 metre.
Saturday Outlook: Wind: NW/NE 15/25 knots ahead of S'ly change 15/25 knots.
Sunday Outlook: Wind: Early S'ly change 15/25 knots.

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Vale “Harry The Hat” (Fred Pentecost)
Written by: goat on September 25th, 2008 
I read an obituary in yesterday’s Manly Daily that took me back a few years to when I was a teenager surfing in the sixties - “Harry The Hat” (Fred Pentecost) passed away earlier this month, just short of his 83rd birthday.

I first met him out in the surf at Dee Why Point, wearing his distinctive floppy white hat, tied down with elastic (amazingly it seemed to stay on even after he’d roll under the biggest wave).  He was much older than me and my mates - nearly my dad’s age, which was unusual at the time.  You just didn’t find older guys out there on boards, travelling from beach to beach to find the best surf… Guys his age were in surf clubs (by then Snowy MacAlister had resorted to paddling a long surf ski).  Boardriding on the latest model malibu was for younger people (the old guys who are out there now, are mostly the ones who were young back then!). 

The hat showed that he definitely did not go for the cool look… No one else wore hats surfing!  He didn’t care - it kept the sun off his head. 

But he could surf, and he surfed  well.  So such uncommon features made you happy to talk to him.  Clearly he didn’t give a rats for convention, or appearances…   

He was always out there when it was big, and enjoyed surfing as much as I did.  Over a number of years of infrequent chatting with him while surfing at places from Narrabeen to DY, we found a couple of things in common to talk about… We didn’t know each other from work but both then worked at PMG Telecommunications - the Post Master General’s Department! … a very large organisation now called Telstra.  We lived for surfing on the weekend.  I was studying for an economics degree at university.  He’d done a science degree. 

So he became a person of some respect and a kind of role model to many younger surfers.  Not only could he surf well, but he had a mind, did not see the need to conform to anyone’s conventional thinking, and he was a nice guy.  He was a living example that such a combination was possible.

The Daily said he caught his last waves at the age of 78 at Byron, where he moved from Collaroy Plateau to be closer to his kids after his wife died.

I remember the last time I saw him.  It was at North Narrabeen, over 35 years ago - sunny day, nice surf, waving “see you later” as he paddled in.  I didn’t see him after that, as I moved to Avalon and surfed there.

Think about how many people that you meet in your life on an infrequent casual basis, that leave such a lasting favourable impression. 

See you later Fred… (not too soon I hope:) … Catch a few good ones up there in the meantime.

TG.

Posted in: News Stories, Surf history.

Vale “Harry The Hat” (Fred Pentecost)

I read an obituary in yesterday’s Manly Daily that took me back a few years to when I was a teenager surfing in the sixties – “Harry The Hat” (Fred Pentecost)passed away earlier this month, just short of his 83rd birthday.

I first met him out in the surf at Dee Why Point, wearing his distinctive floppy white hat, tied down with elastic (amazingly it seemed to stay on even after he’d roll under the biggest wave).  He was much older than me and my mates - nearly my dad’s age, which was unusual at the time.  You just didn’t find older guys out there on boards, travelling from beach to beach to find the best surf… Guys his age were in surf clubs (by then Snowy MacAlister had resorted to paddling a long surf ski).  Boardriding on the latest model malibu was for younger people (the old guys who are out there now, are mostly the ones who were young back then!). 

The hat showed that he definitely did not go for the cool look… No one else wore hats surfing!  He didn’t care – it kept the sun off his head. 

But he could surf, and he surfed  well.  So such uncommon features made you happy to talk to him.  Clearly he didn’t give a rats for convention, or appearances…   

He was always out there when it was big, and enjoyed surfing as much as I did.  Over a number of years of infrequent chatting with him while surfing at places from Narrabeen to DY, we found a couple of things in common to talk about… We didn’t know each other from work but both then worked at PMG Telecommunications - the Post Master General’s Department! … a very large organisation now called Telstra.  We lived for surfing on the weekend.  I was studying for an economics degree at university.  He’d done a science degree. 

So he became a person of some respect and a kind of role model to many younger surfers.  Not only could he surf well, but he had a mind, did not see the need to conform to anyone’s conventional thinking, and he was a nice guy.  He was a living example that such a combination was possible.

The Daily said he caught his last waves at the age of 78 at Byron, where he moved from Collaroy Plateau to be closer to his kids after his wife died.

I remember the last time I saw him.  It was at North Narrabeen, over 35 years ago – sunny day, nice surf, waving “see you later” as he paddled in.  I didn’t see him after that, as I moved to Avalon and surfed there.

Think about how many people that you meet in your life on an infrequent casual basis, that leave such a lasting favourable impression. 

See you later Fred… (not too soon I hope:) … Catch a few good ones up there in the meantime.

TG.

The beautiful sunshine

has been replaced by grey skies and 30knot SE.waves quality is once again rubbish.Wave height is barely waist high even in the protected corners.Best bet for a  decent wave would be to watch a surf dvd…

beautiful day – a few tiddlers

Possibly some good little waves in the 1-2ft range around if you’ve got some good sand on your stretch and the right equipment. Great day for it. Rosco.

Ground hog day

Same weak, piddly swell we’ve had for the past few weeks but a nice day ahead.  Maybe something around Monday/ Tues next week but flat until then unless you like low period, weak slop. Yep, pretty crap on the surf front and I’ve had a gutful- bring on an east-coast low huey! Enjoy

Narrabeen Rpt

Still pretty weak & tiny, but what a lovely day for the beach!

Adrian Buchan Beats Kelly Slater to be Crowned Quiksilver Pro France Champion

Adrian Buchan Beats Kelly Slater to be Crowned Quiksilver Pro France Champion

HOSSEGOR, France (Wednesday, Sept. 24, 2008) – Adrian Buchan (AUS) has beaten eight-time ASP World Champion Kelly Slater (USA) to win his first ever ASP World Tour event – the Quiksilver Pro France – in Hossegor, France today.

Buchan beat Slater 15.73 to 15.16 in a tight heat held at Les Bourdaines this afternoon. The final berth was the first of Buchan’s ASP World Tour career. Prior to winning the Quiksilver Pro France, Buchan he had never advanced from the quarterfinal round.

“I can’t believe it, to have Kelly in the final and to beat him, I am speechless,” Buchan said. “He is my hero. I have watched him win five events this year – he has just been phenomenal. He sets the bar so high for all of us guys, I am really thankful that surfing has got such a great custodian.”

Had Buchan lost the heat, Slater would have clinched his ninth ASP World Title. Buchan led the heat for most of the 35-minute affair with Slater needing a very attainable 7.51 to change the situation. The eight-time ASP World Champion caught a wave with seconds to go but came up short.

“I tried not to think about it paddling out for the final,” Buchan said. “I had visions of him winning the title but I just tried to focus on myself and what I had to do out there – get two really good waves. Luckily Kelly did not get that one at the end.”

Buchan, who has been on tour for three years, spent the first half of his rookie year injured. He earned an injury wildcard to compete on the tour in 2007 and finished the year rated 19^th. He jumps to world No. 9 with this result.

“I have been injured so obviously doing well and to have a win today makes it all sweet,” Buchan said. “My goal this year was to finish in the top 10 so we’ll see, we might have to take a look at reassessing that.”

Slater dug deep in an effort to win his sixth event of the season, willing a last minute wave to pop up in the dying seconds. Despite needing a relatively small score, he was unable to pull out the last-minute comeback he’s renowned for.

“It’s cool that it came down to a wave in the end, at least it made it interesting,” Slater said. “Truth is though, Ace was more in sync with it. He got those open face ones and did the turns. I had one wave I surfed pretty good on that I knew was going to get me back in it. Then I just needed a chance in the end but there wasn’t quite enough time – I should have pushed for a 40-minute final.”

Slater only earned a 2.23 on the wave he caught with three seconds left. He will now have to wait until the next event in Mundaka to have another chance to clinch.

 “I didn’t think I had the chance to win with that last ride,” Slater said. “I would have been bummed if they gave me the score on it. Maybe people didn’t see it, but my foot came off, I didn’t make that 360 very clean and I didn’t really get above the lip on that air. Maybe if there would have been a punt section where I could have done a big air I could have possibly gotten the score, but I knew that score wasn’t going to be close. It’s frustrating though, to be so close – literally one score away from winning the title. I guess at this point I’m two heat wins from winning the title.”

If Kelly finishes 9^th or better in Mundaka he will win the world title. If he bows out with a 17^th or 33^rd and Mick Fanning (AUS) or Taj Burrow (AUS) win the event, the race continues until Brazil.

Slater beat Adriano de Souza (BRA) in the semifinals today. De Souza and Slater have now met eight times, with Slater getting the best of the Brazilian each time. De Souza moves to World No. 4 with the result.

“It is great to surf against Kelly,” de Souza said. “He pushes my level further and forces you to put so much energy into the heat. I learned so much from this heat and I hope that next time I can get past that one. I am really proud. I came to Europe to get some really good results and I did already so I am really happy. Making the semis is a really good result for me so I hope I can keep it up and stay in the Top 10 –that is my main focus this year.”

Buchan beat Damien Hobgood (USA) in the semifinals en route to his maiden victory.

“I never really had a stellar heat the whole contest, so that was kind of a bummer but I’m really stoked with this result and hopefully I can build some momentum,” Hobgood said. “This is the result I needed to get my year started. It is a good start to the end of the year for me.”

Hobgood moved from 31^st to 26^th on the ASP World Tour ratings with the result. Only the Top 27 ASP World Tour surfers at year’s end automatically requalify for the following year.

The ASP Top 45 will now head to Mundaka in the Basque Country of Spain for the ninth stop of 11 on the 2008 ASP World Tour.

For more details visit: www.aspworldtour.com and www.quiksilverlive.com.

Final Quiksilver Pro France Results:

Final: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 15.74 def. Kelly Slater (USA) 15.16

Semifinal Quiksilver Pro France Results:

Heat 1: Kelly Slater (USA) 14.90 def. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 13.97

Heat 2: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 15.17 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 8.83

Quarterfinal Quiksilver Pro France Results:

Heat 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 14.93 def. Bobby Martinez (USA) 12.40

Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 17.50 def. Mick Campbell (AUS) 12.33

Heat 3: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 17.00 def. Dane Reynolds (USA) 13.34

Heat 4: Damien Hobgood (USA) 13.34 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 13.00

Round 4 Quiksilver Pro France Results:

Heat 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 9.50 def. Dayyan Neve (AUS) 9.33

Heat 2: Bobby Martinez (USA) 14.66 def. Ben Dunn (AUS) 12.00

Heat 3: Mick Campbell (AUS) 14.00 def. Luke Stedman (AUS) 11.17

Heat 4: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.27 def. Taylor Knox (USA) 14.77

Heat 5: Dane Reynolds (USA) 16.50 def. Taj Burrow (AUS) 10.33

Heat 6: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 14.50 def. Rodrigo Dornelles (BRA) 10.66

Heat 7: Michel Bourez (PYF) 13.50 def. Kieren Perrow (AUS) 11.57

Heat 8: Damien Hobgood (USA) 8.67 def. C.J. Hobgood (USA) 8.50

Top 10 ASP World Tour Ratings after the Quiksilver Pro France:

1. Kelly Slater (USA) – 7852 points

2. Taj Burrow (AUS) – 6002 points

3. Bede Durbidge (AUS) – 5668 points

4. Adriano De Souza (BRA) – 5426 points

5. Joel Parkinson (AUS) – 5373 points

6. Mick Fanning (AUS) – 5310 points

7. Bobby Martinez (USA) – 5092 points

8. CJ Hobgood (USA) – 4880 points

9. Adrian Buchan (AUS) – 4719 points

10. Jeremy Flores (FRA) – 4407 points

Quiksilver Pro France

Stop No. 8 of 11 on the 2008 ASP World Tour

Southwest Coast of France

September 19-28, 2008