Dusk for a Tuesday

Hello Friends,

Light was fading fast thanks to the showers and heavy cloud. But your correspondent made another dash out for a look at the situation.

Nup. Still no where near surfable, even though the swell seems to have peaked (at a very impressive 6 metres at 11sec).

Grabbed a couple pictures on the Collaroy-Narra stretch to give you an idea of how things were looking. Some sets off the southern end of Gardens were breaking a good 300-400 metres out from the beach. A huge amount of sand sweeping down the beach I should imagine because the surf zone looked to be a couple hundred metres wide. My guess is that come tomorrow morning, the beach along the Collaroy end will be quite a bit narrower on high tides after this.

South Narra stretch was pretty big at dusk.

Northy on a day even the most hardened local will be leaving alone.

Samoan Surf Report for week 13 of 2009 from Sa’Moana Resort

My aploogies now that there won’t be any Samoan reports after this one for about 3 weeks. I’ll be up surfing in West Java and nop internet is available. Big catch up when I’m back. Regards …………..George Leslie

WEEKLY   REPORTS  for    2009

Report No:   13-2009

Period:           Monday 23^rd till Sunday 29^th March

Monday.  High tides @ 4.45an & 4.54pm.   Small but clean – no surfing today

Tuesday.  High tides @ 5.16am & 5.29pm.   Slight increase in the swell during the course of the day. Ended up getting some fun little waves in the afternoon out at Resorts.  About head high, no wind and a reasonable shape.

Wednesday.  High tides @ 5.49am & 6.05pm.   The crew awoke to storm like conditions, some new arrivals braving it and out front for a paddle to loosen up the arms.  Conditions settled down during  the morning with an arvo trip the Rivermouth which was about head high, with variable winds and some reasonable waves.

Thursday.  High tides @ 6.24am & 6.44pm.  The south swell kept coming overnight so it was an early and a late one at Pebbles. Shoulder to head high with light east wind making it offshore, and the inside was tubing and spitting as usual.  In the morning the outside section was also peeling well and some would link right thru. Two x  3 hour sessions which were fun.

Friday.  High tides @ 7.02am & 7.26pm.  The crew went to Y-Tops which was really good, head high with no wind meant they had 3 hours of great waves. A few turns and a few barrels thru the middle and end sections. All guests stoked.

Saturday.  High tides @ 7.45am & 8.13pm.  They split into 2 groups today with one boat going to Y-Tops again which had dropped a touch but was still lining up nicely, again a few turns and a few tubes. The others surfed at the Rivermouth which was shoulder high rights with some nice walls. The wind got into it but they got a great 2 hours on it early.

Sunday. High tides @ 8.34am & 9.07pm.   Another 2 boat trips with split groups and great waves all round. Surf 1 went to Y-tops which was pumping – big sets about double overhead lining up nicely from both the deep section and end section – barrels and turns a plenty. Surf 2 stayed local and scored some heavy ledges at Special K which looked easy enough from the boat but the big sets were a challenge to drop into. Some big open barrels if you picked the right one. They moved on to Pebbles which had some good waves running all the way through from out back to the inside section

Photos   Sorry no shots this week. The tropical conditions in Samoa seem to really take a toll on our camera gear. Hopefully the servicing will be finished this week.

Cheers …. George

I’ll be up having a paddle  in West Java for the next two weeks till April 17^th so my dear wife will be sending the reports out.

BSR 2009 03 31

BSR pic of the day

Bali Surf Report
Date = Tue, 31 Mar 2009
Time = 09:30 AM
Location = Padma – Legian
Size = 2-3 ft
Surfers = more than 20
Tide = mid to high
Wind = calm onshore wind
Weather = sunny
Water = clear and little bit bumpy
Wave = not so big, still fun and consistent

Legian: High tide at Legian can serve up some of the most power-packed beachbreaks in the world. Always bigger than Kuta, although it usually closes-out on low tide. It also closes out on high tide if the swell is over 8 feet. Because Legian is in the curve of the beach, it collects the compressed energy of all swells. If Kuta is only 3 foot, sometimes Legian can be mignificent at 4 – 6 foot. A handy hint is that Kuta Reef is often about the same size at Legian. A hot crew of young Bali locals surf here regularly, so smile, share and be friendly to enjoy your sessions here.

Mid-arvo: rain, wind, building swell

Hello Friends

As promised I went out to see if I could grab a few pics for ya. Not the most photogenic conditions unfortunately. First stop was the Bower and it was looking just plain crazy out there. Lots of water in motion, sets in the 2x or bigger range and only a couple mad people tossing around in it. Saw them get a couple but mostly it was just maintaining through the choppy surface conditions on gradually diminishing shoulders.

A small group of equally demented surf persons were rocking off in front of that boat shed just north from the shops at Bower Lane. Some of the sets were doing some unpleasant looking things amongst the rocks too. The surfers would then paddle out and around to south Steyne where there were some very big and generally messy looking peaks. Again, as with the Bower, the main point seemed to be to get in the water and catch a few on a really big day. Not much in the way of performance surfing going on.

Headed north to see what was happening up at Collaroy. There were a couple folks battling their way out to Brownwater and I even got a picture of one bloke on a wave. Collaroy looked totally out of control, ditto the kick.

Then the rain really set in, so I decamped up to Mactier street for a squiz at the far southern end of Gardens. The rain was bucketing though and I had to wait awhile for it simply to lift enough to grab a snap of the seriously heavy stuff sweeping down the beach from the north. Not surfable by anyone in their right mind. But impressive power and I wonder how it’ll go for the beachfront places along that stretch tonight when the high tide and swell look set to peak around the same time…

If possible I’ll try to get out for one more look at things before close of play today…

Stormy and crazy at the south end of Manly.

Throwing seaweed and sand right up to the Bower lane cafe's doorstep.

Over the falls at south Steyne around noon.

The Bower was mostly a diabolical heaving mess at high tide.

Like name like nature. Near the chair at Brownwater 1300ish.

Those are a couple hundred metres away, so it ain't small at Mactier St.

Dee Why: Uglier than Ugg boots

Well, as expected, the swell’s up but so is the wind so no surprise that there’s no one out. Dee Why Point and Longy at 1000hrs

Near  Sydney? Nup.  Hint: 4-hour drive from Burnie. And you probably wouldn’t find it yourself, without some help from the locals…

At 1000

Situation at 1000.

Wind is 20-25kts SE. Swell is averaging 4 metres from the east at 9 seconds (see below for snap from MHL Sydney buoy.

But Coffs and Crowdy show there’s likely more coming our way. Currently average heights up there are registering at 6 metres with average period around the 11 sec mark. That’s damn big.

Our next high tide is around 1230… but it’s not as big as the one at around 0100 tomorrow when the peak energy could be arriving.

I’m going out and about for another look in about an hour (around 1100)

Bureau’s latest call:

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Strong Wind Warning.
Tuesday until midnight: Wind: E/SE 15/20 knots, increasing to 20/30 knots.Sea: 1.5 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres.Swell: E 2.5 to 3.5 metres, breaking dangerously close inshore.
Wednesday: Wind: E 20/30 knots, gradually easing to E/NE 15/20 knots. Sea: 2 to 3 metres, gradually abating to 1.5 to 2 metres. Swell: E 3 metres, breaking dangerously close inshore.
Thursday: Wind: NE 10/20 knots.

MHL Sydney looking just a little nutty...

Avalon to Narrabeen Rpt

Snowstorm!

It was a dark and stormy morning

Hello Friends,
Blowing pretty hard out there. Collaroy Narrabeen stretch ripped up, Dee Why Longy stretch likewise. Didn’t see anything surfable.

Around 0720, not looking too flash at Dee Why.

Pretty hopeless looking at 0715 at Collaroy.

Maybe you could surf there... maybe... with a tow?

My, isn't that delightful looking?

Byron Bay March 30 / 09

Close of play Monday

A few pics from right on dusk

The swell is starting to fill in, but the surface conditions were making it look pretty marginal at most places with waves. The semi-protected south ends are going to be the best bet pretty obviously.

Here’s the latest from the Bureau:

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Strong Wind Warning.
Monday until midnight: Wind: 15/20 knots. Sea: 1 to 2 metres. Swell: E/NE 1.5 to 2 metres.
Tuesday: Wind: E/SE 20/25 knots, increasing to 20/30 knots. Sea: 1.5 to 2.5 metres, rising to 2 to 3 metres. Swell: E/NE 2 to 2.5 metres.
Wednesday: Wind: E/NE 20/30 knots, easing overnight
Thursday: Wind: NE 10/20 knots.

Some seriously meaty looking sections just on dark at Collaroy.

Watched these guys for quite awhile, didn't see a single wave ridden.

Lots in the water for some forerunners amongst the choppy conditions.

Some size, but not super clean.