Archive for April 2009
BSR 2009 04 30
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in Surf Reports.Bali Surf Report
Date = Thu, 30 Apr 2009
Time = 9 AM
Location = Padma – Legian
Size = 2-3 ft
Surfers = about 20
Tide = low tide
Wind = cross/offshore wind
Weather = cloudy
Water = calm and swim able
Wave = not so bad wave, not really consistent but power enough
Legian: High tide at Legian can serve up some of the most power-packed beachbreaks in the world. Always bigger than Kuta, although it usually closes-out on low tide. It also closes out on high tide if the swell is over 8 feet. Because Legian is in the curve of the beach, it collects the compressed energy of all swells. If Kuta is only 3 foot, sometimes Legian can be mignificent at 4 – 6 foot. A handy hint is that Kuta Reef is often about the same size at Legian. A hot crew of young Bali locals surf here regularly, so smile, share and be friendly to enjoy your sessions here.
Running around: Brownwater & south Narra
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in At large, South Narrabeen.Back again.
After leaving Dee Why, I rushed past Longy without detouring for a closer inspection and instead hooked a right to run down for a squiz at Whiterock, Brownwater and Collaroy. Didn’t seem to be anything amazing happening it has to be said. However a really nice little set popped up at Brownwater and for just a second it looked magnificent (see photo below)
There were a few bods around at Collaroy doing the longboard and SUP thing. Sets looked to be into the chest high range, but mostly they were much smaller. The usual long waits applied.
Meanwhile, if you’d had the necessary tow equipment, there might have been some juicy options way offshore on that bomby north of Makaha. I reckon it looks almost island style…
Went up to where the old Tea Gardens once stood and checked the crunchy action there for long enough to grab a few snaps. The basic deal was that they were mostly closing out, but if you were in the right spot, it was possible to hook into some nice, if very brief walls. Definite board breaking potential and as with everywhere else I looked this morning, pretty unpopulated. Funny what cold wind and the end of school hols will do…
Running around: Curly & Dee Why
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in At large, Curl Curl, Dee Why.Hi all,
Around 0845-0900 I had a closer look at Dee Why and Curly. Only one guy in the water at South Curly because it was just too nutty big up the north end. And the guy chasing waves out from the pool caught nothing while I watched. Really not all that much quality at that particular point in the morning – despite the size. So, I grabbed a shot up the beach toward Northy…
So then it was on over the hill for a quick check of the situation at Dee Why. Seeing as I’d already taken a couple pics, I just grabbed one more. There were folks at the point but they were doing a lot of waiting. I watched the beachy for quite awhile whilst talking to RealSurf Mona contrib Ben and we saw a few come through, but, as a Dee Why veteran who walked by observed, it looks as though the south swell is gradually knocking down the extraordinary bank that’s been sitting out in front of the SLSC for the past week or two. Anyway, here’s the shot I took…
Then it was on to Collaroy-Narrabeen… (up next!)
Mona Vale
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in Mona Vale.
Mona Vale is pretty dam bad this morning, windy, no banks, cold. There are a few places pumping with really fun banks at the moment though, but i won’t make many friends if i start mentioning where they are!
Brrr! But waves too
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in Dee Why.Hello Friends,
Short version: still lots of waves to be had, but it is smaller on average. Skies were darkening and showers were visible off to the south of Dee Why when I climbed up into the crows nest to get a picture or two. The numbers are looking pretty good: south swell of a couple metres at 10s and light SSW winds.
Along the Dee Why stretch that means waist to chest on many of them, but a reasonable number into the head high range (if not a touch bigger). Crowds are well down over past days now that school has resumed and the workers have returned.
Maybe it’s the dark grey sky, but the 0745 temp of around 13 felt particularly chilly (surpress those smiles Viccos!). We’re set for showers along the coast and the high will gradually creep up to around the 17 mark.
Here’s the Bureau’s call.
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Thursday until midnight: Wind: S/SE 10/15 knots, reaching 15/20 knots at times.Sea: 1 to 2 metres.Swell: S 2 to 3 metres. Waves breaking dangerously, close inshore. Isolated morning thunderstorms.
Friday: Wind: NW/SW 5/10 knots. Sea: less than 1 metre. Swell: S 1.5 to 2 metres.
Saturday: Wind: S/SW 10/20 knots, increasing to S 15/25 knots.
I plan to update with more later…
C C
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in Central Coast, Surf Reports.
Fine(some cloud), dry and mild on the Central Coast this Thursday morning. The swell is smooth, pretty big and consistent at 3 – 5 feet + from the southeast. There is a light west southwest which should go south southeast pretty soon with rain. Low tide 0645 and high tide around 1240. Local barometer 1013hpa, 86% humidity, 12 degrees C. Have a good one.
The way it was in Byron Bay April 29th 2009
Posted on April 30th, 2009 in Byron, Cool Picks, Just for fun, Local Colour, Surf Reports.The way it was In Byron Bay Today. The winter banks are here and it’s looking good for the logger crew at the pass. It’s longa and soft with good nose ride sections There’s no more sand off the point unfortunately, and it’s really frustrating for little whiteboards. Don’t sucked in it may look good, but it’s even soft for a log. But don’t despair if your ride a shorty, there are literally dozens of good thick chunky beach breaks around at the moment. All that sand that got chewed out of Tallow’s in the last few weeks hasn’t just disappeared, it’s landed in many spots, and you just need to go look for it. I’ll give you a hint, not in right in town and although the swell went north a lot of sand seemed to drift south. But that’s all I’m going to tell ya,so take a walk and hook into some of these new banks In Byron Bay Today.
BSR 2009 04 29
Posted on April 29th, 2009 in Surf Reports.Bali Surf Report
Date = Wed, 29 Apr 2009
Time = 9 AM
Location = Padma – Legian
Size = 2-3 ft
Surfers = more than 20
Tide = mid tide
Wind = offshore wind
Weather = sunny
Water = fine and still swim able
Wave = not so bad wave, not really consistent but still power
Legian: High tide at Legian can serve up some of the most power-packed beachbreaks in the world. Always bigger than Kuta, although it usually closes-out on low tide. It also closes out on high tide if the swell is over 8 feet. Because Legian is in the curve of the beach, it collects the compressed energy of all swells. If Kuta is only 3 foot, sometimes Legian can be mignificent at 4 – 6 foot. A handy hint is that Kuta Reef is often about the same size at Legian. A hot crew of young Bali locals surf here regularly, so smile, share and be friendly to enjoy your sessions here.
Pic round up from this morning
Posted on April 29th, 2009 in At large, Curl Curl, Freshwater, Manly, South Narrabeen.Hi all,
Ran out and grabbed a few more piccies for ya (am I barking mad, or what??) . Here’s the executive summary for around 0900
Manly: south end best, knee to waist, with occ. chest high 5/10
Freshy: waist to chest, rare bigger one, 5/10
So. Curly: chest to head high and some bigger, south end only, bit dodgy, but fun sections 6/10
Dee Why: see earlier report! 7-8/10
Sth Narra: tide affected, waist to chest high, odd bigger one 6/10
Swell still here
Posted on April 29th, 2009 in Big Picture, Dee Why.Hello Friends,
It’s firing once again. Average size of the SSE swell at sea is around the 3 metre mark and average period is running at about 10 seconds. This is translating into shoulder to head high waves with well overhead bomb sets at Dee Why (and, no doubt, other exposed beaches).
The day started overcast and cold (by Sydney standards). Wind not much of a factor but the 10C air is. According to the Bureau, we’re due to see a shower or two developing later in the day along the coast. It should warm up to around 19 though.
As noted in the summary below, the Bureau expects our swell to fade a little today. Sydney continues to cop the brunt of the energy along the NSW coast, so what we have happening at ESE spots is probably as good as anywhere in the State.
Here’s the latest from the Bureau
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Wednesday until midnight: Wind: S/SW 10/15 knots, reaching 15/20 knots offshore at first tending SE 10/15 knots in the afternoon.Sea: 1 to 1.5 metres.Swell: S/SE 2 to 3 metres decreasing.
Thursday: Wind: S/SE 10/15 knots.Sea: about 1 metre.Swell: S/SE about 2 metres.
Friday: Wind: NW/SW 5/15 knots.
Click here for more pics from late yesterday


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