What an afternoon

Hello Friends,

Hope you got in this afternoon. Shoulda been good lots of places. Your loyal correspondent blew off work for a couple hours to join roughly half the population of Dee Why on an astoundingly good low tide peak (and the point was kinda fun too). I’m giving the best sets 9/10 – hard to imagine how 8 foot of lightly offshore peeling wall that runs for 150 metres plus could really be improved on.

Quite an impressive pulse, and from the look of the other buoy data along the coast of NSW, Sydney got it first and strongest. It arrived so quickly that I am cautious about my hopes for tomorrow. Often if it ramps this quickly, it drops just as fast as soon as it peaks. It’ll be interesting to see what the next run of the MHL data shows…

I hope to be happily surprised if it is still as big tomorrow morning. The models suggest that the swell should swing more south and be in the two metre range at sea. Wind should be stronger than this afternoon, but at least it’ll be out of the W-SW.

Here’s the latest call from the Bureau:

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Strong Wind Warning.
Monday until midnight: Wind: W/NW 18/23 knots.Sea: 1 to 2 metres. Swell: S/SW 1 to 2 metres.
Tuesday: Wind: W/SW 25/33 knots.Sea: 2 to 3 metres. Swell: S about 2 metres.
Wednesday: Wind: SW/NW 10/15 knots.
Thursday: Wind: S/SE 10/15 knots.

Anyway, herewith a few snaps taken in the last minutes of light after I got out of the water.

Dee Why point was eminently hackable on dusk.

Mr. P. pops the top off a little one.

The point wasn't as big as the beachy, but there were quality moments to be had.

A bit crazy, but hey, you haveta be in to win!

Dee Why beachy

Afternoon delight

Dee Why was insanely crowded and insanely good.

I love being wrong!

Hello Friends,

I think that is just about the quickest turnaround I’ve seen in many a long year. Utterly and completely flat at 1100 this morning when mate Barry and I were walking out along the rocks at the point. We were within two metres of the water and in no danger of a rogue splash. I just watched a set with a good solid 6 to 8 foot of face (trough to crest, not back) wall into Dee Why beach and hone left for a hundred metres. Four hours ago you couldn’t have caught anything even with a SUP at that same spot.

The MHL buoy tells the tale. Swell ramped from less than a metre at 6 seconds to nearly 2 m at 11 seconds. At the same time it swung a little east so that it should be lighting up lots of spots – not just DY.

Might go for a closer look to see what else is going nutty just at the moment.

1445: this was unsurfable micro 3 hrs ago!

BSR 2009 04 27

BSR pic of the day

Bali Surf Report
Date = Mon, 27 Apr 2009
Time = 9 AM
Location = Padma – Legian
Size = 2-3 ft
Surfers = 15 surfers and come in right-left Padma
Tide = high tide
Wind = cross shore wind
Weather = bright sky
Water = fine and still swim able
Wave = more swells and not so bad

Legian: High tide at Legian can serve up some of the most power-packed beachbreaks in the world. Always bigger than Kuta, although it usually closes-out on low tide. It also closes out on high tide if the swell is over 8 feet. Because Legian is in the curve of the beach, it collects the compressed energy of all swells. If Kuta is only 3 foot, sometimes Legian can be mignificent at 4 – 6 foot. A handy hint is that Kuta Reef is often about the same size at Legian. A hot crew of young Bali locals surf here regularly, so smile, share and be friendly to enjoy your sessions here.

Extra tinyness with that tinyness?

Hello Friends,

Running behind with my contribution this morning. Wish it was because I’d been surfing. Sadly, we have a classic little (we hope!) winter-style flat spell. We have west to WNW winds and a very small, just about straight south swell. That combo will be delivering next to nothing at most places. You might spot a very tiny peak at a stretch of beach with straight south exposure. But I wouldn’t be counting on finding anything.

There’s quite an intense low deep in the Tasman at the moment, but from the look of the charts, it may not end up slinging much our way because the dominant fetch won’t get pointed in our general direction for long. When I say “much” I mean big swell of the sort we had last week. It should definitely be fun size and surfable from the middle part of the day tomorrow. How big? Hmmm… waist to chest with the odd shoulder high set at places facing south?

So, what has the Bureau to say?

Good day for a walk along the beach.

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Monday until midnight: Wind: W/NW 20/25 knots at first, easing to 18/23 knots by the afternoon.Sea: about 2 metres abating to 1 to 2 metres. Swell: S/SW about 1 metre increasing to 2 metres during the day.
Tuesday: Wind: W/SW 20/30 knots.Sea: 2 to 3 metres. Swell: S about 2 metres.
Wednesday: Wind: SW/NW 10/15 knots.

Go well!

Flat Rpt

It’s flat, ok?

The way it was in Byron Bay 26th April 2009