Afternoon wrap: North Coast style

Hello Friends,

Another postcard from the far north coast coming up. But first, a word about the prospects in Syd-a-knee. As Rob’s pics show, the swell has started to kick up. Latest data from the MHL buoy shows the primary direction to be SE and the average size to be a couple metres at about 8 seconds. However, there has been some very long period (14+ sec) component in the mix too. This is consistent with the computer models which have been calling for a brief, long-period pulse to hit overnight. So it seems to be here a bit early. Tomorrow the outlook is for the swell to weaken but for the wind to be more favourable than today.

Meanwhile outlook for the far north coast is for those SE winds that have made Sydney’s surf conditions pretty ordinary to turn up here and to do pretty much the same thing. Hoping against hope that the swell will get into protected spots and that there will be more water time to be had.

After this morning’s less that stellar surf, I had a few hours with the computer doing magazine stuff, before setting off for a visit to lovely Byron. Very small everywhere sadly. Still, for the keen and those equipped with a mal, there were options to be had. Scoped Broken Head for awhile, but it was pretty busy and gutless.
Figured that if the fate was gutless waves, we might as well hit the pass with everyone else in Byron. Waves were mostly in the knee to waist high range, but if you were lucky, you could jag one that would run and run (assuming you had a mal). 9/10ths of my waves featured at least one other person in front of me for all or most of the wave. That’s okay though. It was pretty easy to cruise along and I don’t mind the challenge of riding behind.

Came back to Lennox just after school had let out and the kids were onto the reefs out in front of town. Again, not brilliant conditions, but there were lots of little sections to be pounced on and enjoyed.

Have yourself a top old evening!

Lennox Head... waiting for the next swell to arrive...

Grom finds a fun section at Lennox reefs this afternoon.

Fun to be had inside Lennox Reefs this arvo.

Rock art in the sand at The Pass, Byron Bay

Technicolor tiny at Broken Head around midday.

Starting to fire…

A bit of action starting to happen at Dee Why

Ballina-Lennox

Hello Friends,

Very small up along the north coast, but not absolutely flat.  Ended up finding a little hurt-yourself peak (ie, very shallow bank) at the northern end of Skennars Head beach and got a couple with the locals. Wind was chilly and straight offshore, but water is warm, so worth the effort. Checked Lennox reefs and Boulder too. They had little waves as well, but looked fairly gutless.

Meanwhile, back in Sydney, it looks as though the next pulse of south swell has arrived. MHL is showing over 2 metres from the south at 8 sec on average – and rising. Latest wind reading looks like light SSW wind too. Interestingly, the average period down at Eden is showing 12 seconds, so you’d have to think there’s more juice coming for Sydney surfers today.

Current outlook for Sydney swell according to the models is, shall we say, interesting – particularly for next week. At the moment at least one model reckons we could see 6+ metres at 13 plus seconds from the SSE! That will be very seriously big if it happens. Could be some serious coastal erosion with that lot…

In the meantime, it appears that there should be surf in the two metre range over the next couple days at south exposed stretches. By Friday it could be on the increase, and then around Sunday morning, if the models are to be believed, it starts going nuts…

Here’s the Bureau’s call for Sydney:

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Tuesday until midnight: Wind: S/SE 15/20 knots, easing to SE 10/15 knots during the afternoon, E/SE 5/10 knots tonight. Sea: 1 to 2 metres, abating to less than 1 metre tonight.Swell: SE about 1 metre, increasing to S 2 to 2.5 metres during the afternoon/evening.
Wednesday: Wind: NW/NE 5/10 knots. Sea: less than 1 metre. Swell: Decreasing to S 1 to 1.5 metres.
Thursday: Wind: NW 5/15 knots, tending S/SW early and freshening to 15/25 knots during the afternoon.

A shot from the WRL cam at Flight Deck at 1000 this morning…

1000 shot from the WRL cam hi atop Flight Deck in Collaroy.

Couple of snaps from up the north coast this morning.

Moment of looking good before fading right away at Boulder.

Skennars Head excitement.

C C

Overcast, dry (at the moment) and mild on the Central Coast this Tuesday morning.  The swell is semi-smooth and small at 1 – 2 feet + from the east southeast.  There is no breeze at the moment but will go southwest to southeast later.  High tide 0500 and low tide around 1125.  Local barometer 1021hpa, 97% humidity, 14 degrees C.  Have a good one. 

Byron Bay May 4th 2009