Swell coming

Hello Friends,

Closing in on the old Sydney town… we did get some little waves on the way home too. Nothing to rave about, but they were fun. Pulled into Scotts Head and found that the swell was just starting to show a tiny bit. Mostly it was under waist high, but now and again something a touch bigger would roll around the point and into the cool offshore. You really needed to have a mal for all but the biggest ones and they didn’t have a ton of energy so you really had to surf them carefully to stay in the wave as it ran into the beach. About a dozen folks out, including at least a couple who check this site apparently. Quite the hoot.

The weather turned drizzly as we got ready to leave. I grabbed a shot which I think is reasonably representiative of what was happening.

Late arvo and the sets getting a bit bigger and more consistent.

It looks to me as though Sydney could be seeing three metres of south swell at around ten seconds apart by tomorrow morning. We’re set to have S to SW wind with it, so there should be some options around for intermediate and experienced surfers. And the models continue to predict that we’ll get a solid run of south swell right through about Thursday. Size range looks like it could make it into double overhead at the most exposed spots early in the new week. Naturally I’ll be updating as often as possible over the period.

S. Narra looking good this morning

Photos by Melanie!

Heading south

Hello Friends,

You know the deal, I’m sure. Last day away, and there are little waves where you’ve been staying, but there’s a long drive ahead, so do you jump in the water, or do you move on, hoping to pick up something later in the day? The swell dropped a little overnight, but the wind is SW along the far north coast and the skies are blue, so although it’s smaller, it also looks pretty nice. Swell is too small to light up Lennox in any meaningful way. Tide isn’t helping the cause either. But you can see the little line is coming from the right direction and in a couple days the joint should be firing.

Lennox peeler unloads onto the rocks and not a soul out.

Around the corner at Boulder, the usual dozen or so were in the water and a steady stream of surfers were making the quick walk from the carpark to the headland for a look. I reckon the instant there are waves, the crowd in the water will ramp up. We joined the watchers for awhile, I grabbed a few snaps and we decided to leave them to it. Sets were into the chest high range, but the waits are pretty long. Again, it’s only going to get better over the next day or two.

At any given moment, they're always there at Boulder, checking it out...

practising on the little ones, waiting for Boulder to kick into gear...

Speaking of a day or two, the forecast models are not quite as hysterical as a few days ago about the prospects for big swell, the portents are still looking impressive. The WAM for Monday (see below) is showing a very substantial fetch pointing right at us. That should punch up the swell into the 3m plus range toward the middle of the week. And it’ll be bigger up the coast thanks to the extra fetch.

Hope to have more to post about later…

Come Monday...?

Dee Why: not bad

Looking pretty good at Dee Why this morning–and the charts suggest it’ll get even better later on today…

Parkinson Leads ASP Top 45 into the Jaws of the Billabong Pro Tahiti

Joel Parkinson (AUS), 27, current ASP World No. 1, will look to further cement his ratings’ lead at the 2009 Billabong Pro Teahupoo. Photo: ASP/ CI/ WILSON via GETTY IMAGES

TEAHUPOO, Tahiti (Thursday, May 7, 2009) – The 2009 Billabong Pro Tahiti presented by Air Tahiti Nui is days away from commencing with the world’s best surfers descending upon the tiny town of Teahupoo at ‘the end of the road’ for Stop No. 3 of 10 on the 2009 ASP World Tour, running from May 9 – 20, 2009.

This year’s event will run the new format, seeding all competitors directly into man-on-man elimination heats, with the Top 16 seeded directly into Round 2 while the remaining surfers battle it out in Round 1.

Joel Parkinson (AUS), 27, current ASP World No. 1, has been in devastating form this season, collecting two wins in two events with an eye on an inaugural ASP World Title. The phenomenal natural-footer has demonstrated incredible focus thus far and is the frontrunner heading into Tahiti.

“The difference this year has been my understanding of what it takes to get the best out of myself and then my desire to do what it takes,” Parkinson said. “Making sure that every day, I am better prepared than what I was the day before and that preparation is specific to each contest that I compete in.”

Parkinson’s recent results at the Billabong Pro Tahiti have been impressive, netting equal 3^rd place finishes in 2007 and 2008, establishing himself as a legitimate contender at Teahupoo.

“I do feel like over the years I have become more familiar with the wave and whilst Teahupoo is never predictable, it is reassuring to know that I have done the work here before.” Parkinson said. “I am excited to go back there this year and build on my results from the last two years.”

Despite his excellent results this season and his solid track record at the Billabong Pro Tahiti, Parkinson is wary of the many challenges he’ll face as the world’s best surfers angle for a result in Teahupoo’s ledging lefthanders.

“I think everyone will be in the mix for a win,” Parkinson said. “Remember, it is only the third event so everyone is still keen to do well – myself included. But on an individual side of things, the wildcards will be sure to shake things up like they have the first two events. Andy Irons will be challenging for the title. And of course Mick (Fanning) will be a threat because he is the best surfer right now and probably the hungriest.” 

Parkinson is seeded directly into Round 2, where he’ll meet one of the advancing surfers from Round 1.

Fred Patacchia (HAW), 27, current ASP World No. 3, has been in sizzling form this season, racking up a 9^th and a 3^rd in his first two events on the ASP World Tour before collecting an impressive win at the ASP World Qualifying Series (WQS) 6-Star Prime 6.0 Lowers Pro in Southern California over the weekend.

“I’ve been really focusing on my backhand surfing,” Patacchia said. “My first couple years on tour, I felt like my backhand attack wasn’t good enough. I’d go into a heat feeling negative and defeated. This year, I’m feeling confident and more prepared. I’ve made some slight changes with my boards and that’s made a big difference. No big plans for Tahiti, just pull in deep and come out. Not much to it.”

Patacchia came as close as runner-up in Tahiti in 2006, but the young Hawaiian is keen to improve his personal best at the infamous lefthander in hopes of maintaining a solid footing in the ASP World Tour ratings.

“I love getting shacked,” Patacchia said. “Tahiti is one event I’d love to win. I don’t necessarily feel comfortable, but I know for a fact I feel more comfortable than most of the Top 45. I’d love to break into single digits. I’m sick of getting second. I want to win an event.”

Patacchia is seeded directly into Round 2, where he’ll meet one of the advancing surfers from Round 1.

Bruno Santos (AUS), defending event champion who surfed from the trials to the title in 2008, will join former three-time ASP World Champion Andy Irons (HAW), 30, and Von Zipper Trials Winner Heiarii Williams (PYF) as wildcards in the 2009 Billabong Pro Tahiti.

Santos, Irons and Williams will face Kai Otton (AUS), 29, Jihad Khodr (BRA), 25, and Kekoa Bacalso (HAW), 23, respectively in Round 1 of the Billabong Pro Tahiti.

Surfline, official forecasters for the Billabong Pro Tahiti, are tracking a head-high Southwest swell for the upcoming weekend before a stronger system moves into place early the following week.

The Billabong Pro Tahiti presented by Air Tahiti Nui boasts a waiting period from May 9 through May 20, 2009.

The event webcast LIVE via www.billabongpro.com

For more information, log onto www.aspworldtour.com

BILLABONG PRO TAHITI ROUND 1 MATCH-UPS:

Heat 1: Tim Reyes (USA) vs. Mikael Picon (FRA)

Heat 2: Chris Davidson (AUS) vs. Ben Dunn (AUS)

Heat 3: Dean Morrison (AUS) vs. Nathaniel Curran (USA)

Heat 4: Chris Ward (USA) vs. Phillip MacDonald (AUS)

Heat 5: Drew Courtney (AUS) vs. Marlon Lipke (DEU)

Heat 6: Dane Reynolds (USA) vs. Aritz Aranburu (EUK)

Heat 7: Dayyan Neve (AUS) vs. Patrick Gudauskas (USA)

Heat 8: Kekoa Bacalso (HAW) vs. Heiarii Williams (PYF)

Heat 9: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Bruno Santos (BRA)

Heat 10: Jihad Khodr (BRA) vs. Andy Irons (AUS)

Heat 11: David Weare (ZAF) vs. Dustin Barca (HAW)

Heat 12: Jay Thompson (AUS) vs. Greg Emslie (ZAF)

Heat 13: Tim Boal (FRA) vs. Nic Muscroft (AUS)

Heat 14: Tiago Pires (PRT) vs. Josh Kerr (AUS)

Heat 15: Heitor Alves (BRA) vs. Michel Bourez (PYF)

Heat 16: Roy Powers (HAW) vs. Mick Campbell (AUS)

BILLABONG PRO TAHITI ROUND 2 MATCH-UPS:

Heat 1: C.J. Hobgood (USA) vs. TBA

Heat 2: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. TBA

Heat 3: Kieren Perrow (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 4: Taj Burrow (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 5: Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) vs. TBA

Heat 6: Adrian Buchan (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 7: Taylor Knox (USA) vs. TBA

Heat 8: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 9: Bede Durbidge (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 10: Bobby Martinez (USA) vs. TBA

Heat 11: Adriano de Souza (BRA) vs. TBA

Heat 12: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. TBA

Heat 13: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. TBA

Heat 14: Damien Hobgood (USA) vs. TBA

Heat 15: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. TBA

Heat 16: Tom Whitaker (AUS) vs. TBA

C C

Some cloud, some showers and mild on the Central Coast this Friday morning.  The swell is building and ruffled at 2 – 4 feet + from the southeast.  There is a light to moderate south southwest breeze.  High tide 0730 and low tide around 1320.  Local barometer 1021hpa, 94% humidity, 13 degrees C.  Have a good weekend. Happy Mothers Day!

Byron Bay the way it was May 7th 2009