on friday at 6 pm: 1 – 3 foot waves at the lost village point – fresh, clean, slow bowls – mostly still across the straits, but heaving into beautiful easy patterns around the boulders at Firsts – the choice was between a left wave that tilted you into the large west side boulder, and a right wave that began precisely at the large east side boulder – i compromised in the middle, and caught several smooth rides over the inner crags – brother craig from port alberni and another maintained the right – predictions are for much larger tomorrow, but let’s wait and see – major winds and pressure shifts today -**********- and the flier was also the creeper – for when my wings were spread in the sun their shadow upon the earth was a turtle – …. [twitter – mercuryloge]
