Hello Friends,
Up early to see if the swell had arrived yet. At 0630 it wasn’t really obvious, but every now and then a very long line would appear and shutdown a 300 metre stretch of the beach. Since midnight, the average period has jumped from 5 seconds to nearly 10 and the average size of the south swell at sea has gone from less than a metre to around 1.5 metres. Down the coast at Eden the swell peaked very briefly at 15 seconds, but after a couple hours was back to 9 seconds on average (with peak component at 12 sec).
As the latest Bureau marine forecast notes, the swell is headed toward us. They’re expecting the size to ramp into the 3-4 metre range. If that’s 3-4 metres at 10-11 seconds, then it will be big.
Wind is going to be offshore this morning, before swinging around to a junk-everywhere setting this afternoon. Will the swell get here before the wind changes…?
I’m hoping to get out and about with a camera later so who knows, I might have a fresh gallery for you to check out later…
Go well!
Tides: L@0920, H@1559
Gale Warning south of Ulladulla, Strong Wind Warning remainder south of Port Macquarie.Synoptic Situation
A deep low over the Tasman Sea is expected to move northeastwards today. A high pressure system will develop over NSW by Monday night, then move into the northern Tasman Sea during Wednesday. A front is expected to move up the coast during Thursday.
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Strong Wind Warning.
Monday until midnight: Wind: W/SW 20/30 knots, tending SW during the day. Winds easing to 15/20 knots inshore later.Sea: 2 to 3 metres.Swell: S 3 to 4 metres, breaking dangerously close inshore.
Tuesday: Wind: SW 20/30 knots, easing to E/SE 5/15 knots. Sea: 2 to 3 metres abating to about 1 metre.Swell: S 2 to 3 metres.
Wednesday: Wind: NW 5/15 knots, increasing to N/NE 15/20 knots during the afternoon
