Not running on empty but running late

Off to a leisurely start this morning. The sky was grey as we headed north from lovely Milton, our goal those fabled shores a few turnoffs past the latest roadworks. When we got to check-out spot number one the empty carpark told the story. Sure enough when we picked our way down the path to the little observation deck, we beheld an ocean of craziness. There was no question of going out. None.

The swell obviously hadn’t died out overnight.

The wind call was for NW early, swinging NE as the morning got going, so we decided to check a nearby spot that features a little left on the southern edge of a broad, flat rock. Just a couple blokes on it, but with the incoming tide and the first breath of onshore stirring the trees, well, it didn’t seem to have long term prospects.

We’d hoped to score a session at Green Island, so not holding out the highest hopes, that was our next destination.

Since we were already on the north side of Lake Conjola, it was easiest to do the surf check thing from Don Hearn’s memorial lookout. Swell was sizable and there were even two or three stalwarts out trying to get into them, but as another surfer checking it out at the same time said, it was all over the place. Double overhead faces would form up and then abruptly fade – or occasionally do the opposite and punish the hapless would be riders. It didn’t take too long to let that particular dream go.

In the end the solution was to return to the scene of yesterday morning’s triumphs. 9-iron reef wasn’t as crowded and yet it was a bit cleaner. The swell was about the same, maybe a touch smaller, so being by far the most interesting waves we’d seen, the next move was as you’d expect.

Happily the wind held off for more than an hour and we were both able to score some very fun head high plus waves. Once the breeze started to move into the wind category, surface conditions became steadily more messy. I got a few snaps which I’ll endeavour to load later.

After a lunch of tasty pies from the Milton pie shop, we made a loop down to check out Ulladulla bombie.

It was pretty obvious where the crowds had gone. At least 30 of the hottest locals in town were out contending for some solid 2 metre plus sets. It looked pretty intense and the take off zone was a real spot, so not the place to even think about if you’re not pretty handy.

Tomorrow looks like being much smaller than today for most of the east coast. In the last 6 hours the Eden buoy period data has dropped from an average of 10 sec to a windswelly 7 – and I reckon it may slip a bit further. That same trend has started to show up on the Batemans Bay buoy, so I’d say by tomorrow morning Sydney surf options will be small but not totally flat.

Outlook for the next week (based on a quick scan of the wam data) seems to be for a return to spring weakness.

Hope you hooked a few waves from this swell…

Touch and go for the next few days

Mostly East winds under 10 mph with a chance of  rain through Thursday. This will push up a small wind swell with mild choppy conditions. Best to check local conditions before going for a ride.

Roberto

Cronulla report by Aquasea Wetsuit Repairs

Good conditions, swell is 2-4foot with inconsistent waves at times.　
WIND: W at 7kph. WATER TEMP: 20 degrees.
FORECAST: Fine. Sunny periods. Light winds tending moderate northeasterly in
the afternoon, fresh along the coast.
MAX AIR TEMP TODAY: 25-32 degrees.
SWELL: South 2-3m at 10 seconds.
TIDES:　　　　 HIGH: 09:45　　　　　 LOW: 18:30
WINDSURFERS: Good conditions　today.
BOAT DIVING: Lumpy sea conditions outside, vis around 10m+ on the TUGGERAH and Kelloe, 10m　 at Barons Hut, thanks to www.seatamerdive.com Sydney Scuba Diving Boat Charter and Ian Griffiths “Griffiti”. SHORE DIVING: 6 metres vis at Oak Park. 5+ metres at Shiprock.
WETSUIT REPAIRS at Aquasea, Sydney NSW. 02.95404774 for wetty and wettie repairs contact Lesley at AQUASEA 02.95404774 for a quick turn around, zippers tears cuts and all alterations to neoprene.
See ya – www.aquasea.com.au in Sydney – wetsuit wettie wetty wetsuits repair and repairs for surfing scuba windsurfers ring Aquasea on 02.95404774, go diving without tanks ie tankless diving using 12 v volt compressors also known as hookah dive diving with www.aquasea.com.au in Sydney NSW Ph: 02.95404774 led hid halogen torches and lights video boat transom lights for underwater lighting at night similar aqua cam camera and cameras see www.aquasea.com.au for stainless wire in your balustrades and for underwater lights and housings cameras. SYDNEY NSW AUSTRALIA (Ph: 61.2.95404774).
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Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Announces Invitees and Alternates

What it takes . . .

WAIMEA, Oahu/Hawaii (Tuesday, November 17, 2009) – Quiksilver.com/Eddie launches today with the announcement of the 28 coveted Invitees and 24 Alternates to this year’s 25th Anniversary celebration of The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau, fueled by Monster Energy. The ASP sanctioned event will be held on one day, between December 1, 2009 and February 28, 2010, when waves exceed the 20‐foot minimum threshold and Invitees contend for the $98K prize purse. The traditional opening ceremony honoring this silver anniversary will be one to remember, taking place at 2pm, December 3rd, 2009, at Waimea Bay.

INVITEES

Andy Irons, Hawaii

Brian Keaulana, Hawaii

Brock Little, Hawaii

Bruce Irons, Hawaii

Carlos Burle, Brazil

Clyde Aikau, Hawaii

Darryl Virostko, California

Greg Long, California

Jamie O’Brien, Hawaii

Jamie Sterling, Hawaii

Kelly Slater, Florida

Keone Downing, Hawaii

Makuakai Rothman, Hawaii

Mark Healey, Hawaii

Michael Ho, Hawaii

Noah Johnson, Hawaii

Peter Mel, California

Reef McIntosh, Hawaii

Ross Clarke-Jones, Australia

Rusty Keaulana, Hawaii

Shane Dorian, Hawaii

Sunny Garcia, Hawaii

Titus Kinimaka, Hawaii

Tom Carroll, Australia

Grant “Twiggy” Baker, South Africa

Ibon Amatriain, Euskadi

Ramon Navarro, Chile

Takayuki Wakita, Japan

ALTERNATES

Kala Alexander, Hawaii – Aikau Family Pick

Pancho Sullivan, Hawaii

Garrett McNamara, Hawaii

Kohl Christensen, Hawaii

Dave Wassel, Hawaii

Keoni Watson, Hawaii

Nathan Fletcher, Hawaii

Ian Walsh, Hawaii

Danny Fuller, Hawaii

Kalani Chapman, Hawaii

Taylor Knox, California

Chava Greenlee, Hawaii

Jamie Mitchell, Australia

Myles Padaca, Hawaii

Tony Moniz, Hawaii

Darrick Doerner, Hawaii

Ken “Skin Dog” Collins, California

Ross Williams, Hawaii

Derek Ho, Hawaii

Paul Paterson, Australia

Anthony Tashnick, California

Koby Abberton, Australia

Laurent Pujol, France

Laurie Towner, Australia

HONORARY INVITEES

Mark Foo, Hawaii

Todd Chesser, Hawaii

Tiger Espere, Hawaii

Jay Moriarty, California

Peter Davi, California

Lester Falatea, Tahiti

Monster Energy will be presenting the Monster Drop Specialty Award for the surfer who makes the most critical drop and rides out of it during the event. The judges will determine the winner the day of the competition and will present the chosen surfer with a unique Monster Drop Specialty Award Trophy.

Held in honor of the legendary Hawaiian waterman, Eddie Aikau, The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau gathers the most skillful and dynamic big‐wave surfers from around the globe. It is the world’s longest running and most prestigious big‐wave invitational.

The universal appeal and strength of “The Eddie” is a testament to the human spirit it honors and that we all seek to connect with: a life lived with passion, dedicated with meaning, and exited from heroically. Just 31 when he lost his life in an attempt to save others, Aikau has physically been gone now for as long as he was here. But far from being forgotten, his life story is now woven into the fabric of Hawaii.

The Eddie has only run seven times in the past 24 years. You don’t want to miss it when the Bay calls the momentous day. Go to Quiksilver.com/Eddie for swell updates, happenings from the North Shore, and to sign up for text alerts, to make sure you’re the first to know when the Bay calls the day.

For more information, log onto www.aspworldtour.com

C C

For Sale -  I have a Surtech (Tuflite) Velzy 12 foot Hawaiian Paddle board (not SUP) for sale.  Excellent condition. $950.00 (cost $1600.00 + new).  This board is a standard class racing paddle board and goes like the clappers, very fast.  Good cross trainer for paddling on flat days.  If you are interested I can send photos.  Contact Matt at  ms2007@bigpond.com

Overcast, dry and cooler on the Central Coast this Wednesday morning.  The swell is smooth with a lot of water movement at 3 – 6 feet from the southeast.  There is a light southwest breeze forecast to go northeast later.  High tide at 0945 and low tide around 1630.  Local barometer 1008 hpa, 17 degrees C. 94% humidity.   Have a good one.

It Ain’t Permanent, In Byron Bay Today.

Click here for the full update, in Byron Bay today.

Well at about 3.30pm today the long awaited southerly change blew through Byron Bay. What a relief, the temperature dropped, the humidity dropped rapidly and there was a mad scramble as everyone tried to hit the water before anyone else worked out that the wind had changed. But if you’re hoping for a few days of southerly winds, I suspect you may want to think again, it ain’t permanent, it’s not strong enough to last for even a day or two. It’s still spring in the bay, and that usually means a weak southerly blow first, then another quick heatwave before another stronger more stable frontal system appears. Of course I’m just guessing here, which is code for making excuses if I’m wrong and paving the way to gloat if I got it right. There were a few nice waves to be had this afternoon as the change blew through. But as usual I won’t be saying where, if you didn’t find them, then you’ll need to look harder, after all that’s part of the fun of surfing in Byron Bay. The weather and conditions are always changing, if you don’t move with the changes you miss out. It’s kind of a good metaphor for life itself. Just flow with the changes rather than trying to work it all out, and don’t take it too seriously because it’s not permanent anyway. It is just what it is, In Byron Bay Today.