Click here for the full update, In Byron Bay today.

Strolling along a fairly empty stretch of beach. There wasn’t much going down,  just enough swell and tide to turn on a few chunky little shore breaks. It looked fun enough but a little tricky. The young blokes are so stoked they made it look good, and I find myself, watching and thinking. Yeah I used to be able to do that, hmm twenty years ago. Then it hits ya, the forced serving of humble pie we surfers must face as we age. We may all stand around in the beach carparks raving about how good we were, before the dicky knees and dodgy hips demanded we take it a bit more easy. But we don’t get to stay that good forever. If there’s one thing I’ve learnt lately, it’s be grateful for what you’ve got when you’ve got it. If it’s removed, then I try to be grateful when I witness it in another. Being resentful for things past is a form of self abuse. If someone triggers a happy memory for me, then I get to experience that same feeling again. For me that’s something worth being grateful for, In Byron Bay Today.