Archive for November 2009
Avalon to Narrabeen Rpt
Posted on November 19th, 2009 in Surf Reports.Still some shoulder-high bumps around, though a fair whack of the energy has gone from it
C C Fine and we have swell still
Posted on November 19th, 2009 in Central Coast, Surf Reports.For Sale - I have a Surtech (Tuflite) Velzy 12 foot Hawaiian Paddle board (not SUP) for sale. Excellent condition. $950.00 (cost $1600.00 + new). This board is a standard class racing paddle board and goes like the clappers, very fast. Good cross trainer for paddling on flat days. If you are interested I can send photos. Contact Matt at ms2007@bigpond.com
Fine, dry and warm on the Central Coast this Thursday morning. The swell is smooth and still there at 2 – 3 feet from the southeast. There is no breeze at the moment but forecast to go north northwest then northeast later. Low tide at 0350 and High tide around 1025. Local barometer 1005 hpa, 18 degrees C. 94% humidity. Have a good one.
Pleasure & Pain, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on November 19th, 2009 in Byron, Local Colour. 
It was a glorious day, the southerly blew, the local crew came down from the hills for a few slides and there was much rejoicing. All was going well in Byron Bay today. But the ratio of beginners on hire boards with little to nil surfing experience was slowly increasing. Unfortunately that’s often a recipe for injury. Then it happened. An unassuming and unsuspecting chap turned up on a hired S.U.P (stand up paddleboard) eventually dropped in on one of the local ladies Deb. While at the same time, another bloke on another hired board dropped in on her from behind. Wedged between the two utterly inexperienced surfers, Deb was forced off her board and jammed into a rock receiving a smashed heel, a stay in hospital and of course several months now to come, of painful rehabilitation. As for this incident, well yes it was an accident and accidents do happen. But there are deeper underlying issues here, Issues often spoken of quietly in the car park at The Pass and occasionally loudly with the frustration born of near misses and the fear of injury. So what now? Well for Deb, who was so much looking forward to summer, it doesn’t look good. As for the blokes on Hire Boards? Well one ran away, there’s no honour in that, while the other, was traumatised by the experience as well. Nobody seems to profit from this experience, except perhaps the people who hire the boards to absolute novices in the first place? So what next, who knows? I suspect this is not the last we’ll hear of this or similar incidents, although I sincerely hope we see no more of this, In Byron Bay Today. Deb, we are all wishing you a speedy recovery.
Not running on empty but running late
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in South Coast.Off to a leisurely start this morning. The sky was grey as we headed north from lovely Milton, our goal those fabled shores a few turnoffs past the latest roadworks. When we got to check-out spot number one the empty carpark told the story. Sure enough when we picked our way down the path to the little observation deck, we beheld an ocean of craziness. There was no question of going out. None.
The swell obviously hadn’t died out overnight.
The wind call was for NW early, swinging NE as the morning got going, so we decided to check a nearby spot that features a little left on the southern edge of a broad, flat rock. Just a couple blokes on it, but with the incoming tide and the first breath of onshore stirring the trees, well, it didn’t seem to have long term prospects.
We’d hoped to score a session at Green Island, so not holding out the highest hopes, that was our next destination.
Since we were already on the north side of Lake Conjola, it was easiest to do the surf check thing from Don Hearn’s memorial lookout. Swell was sizable and there were even two or three stalwarts out trying to get into them, but as another surfer checking it out at the same time said, it was all over the place. Double overhead faces would form up and then abruptly fade – or occasionally do the opposite and punish the hapless would be riders. It didn’t take too long to let that particular dream go.
In the end the solution was to return to the scene of yesterday morning’s triumphs. 9-iron reef wasn’t as crowded and yet it was a bit cleaner. The swell was about the same, maybe a touch smaller, so being by far the most interesting waves we’d seen, the next move was as you’d expect.
Happily the wind held off for more than an hour and we were both able to score some very fun head high plus waves. Once the breeze started to move into the wind category, surface conditions became steadily more messy. I got a few snaps which I’ll endeavour to load later.
After a lunch of tasty pies from the Milton pie shop, we made a loop down to check out Ulladulla bombie.
It was pretty obvious where the crowds had gone. At least 30 of the hottest locals in town were out contending for some solid 2 metre plus sets. It looked pretty intense and the take off zone was a real spot, so not the place to even think about if you’re not pretty handy.
Tomorrow looks like being much smaller than today for most of the east coast. In the last 6 hours the Eden buoy period data has dropped from an average of 10 sec to a windswelly 7 – and I reckon it may slip a bit further. That same trend has started to show up on the Batemans Bay buoy, so I’d say by tomorrow morning Sydney surf options will be small but not totally flat.
Outlook for the next week (based on a quick scan of the wam data) seems to be for a return to spring weakness.
Hope you hooked a few waves from this swell…
Touch and go for the next few days
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in South Carolina.Mostly East winds under 10 mph with a chance of rain through Thursday. This will push up a small wind swell with mild choppy conditions. Best to check local conditions before going for a ride.
Roberto
Cronulla report by Aquasea Wetsuit Repairs
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in Surf Reports.Good conditions, swell is 2-4foot with inconsistent waves at times.
WIND: W at 7kph. WATER TEMP: 20 degrees.
FORECAST: Fine. Sunny periods. Light winds tending moderate northeasterly in
the afternoon, fresh along the coast.
MAX AIR TEMP TODAY: 25-32 degrees.
SWELL: South 2-3m at 10 seconds.
TIDES: HIGH: 09:45 LOW: 18:30
WINDSURFERS: Good conditions today.
BOAT DIVING: Lumpy sea conditions outside, vis around 10m+ on the TUGGERAH and Kelloe, 10m at Barons Hut, thanks to www.seatamerdive.com Sydney Scuba Diving Boat Charter and Ian Griffiths “Griffiti”. SHORE DIVING: 6 metres vis at Oak Park. 5+ metres at Shiprock.
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Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Announces Invitees and Alternates
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in Contests, News Stories, Surf culture, Surf history, Surf News, Top stories.WAIMEA, Oahu/Hawaii (Tuesday, November 17, 2009) – Quiksilver.com/Eddie launches today with the announcement of the 28 coveted Invitees and 24 Alternates to this year’s 25th Anniversary celebration of The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau, fueled by Monster Energy. The ASP sanctioned event will be held on one day, between December 1, 2009 and February 28, 2010, when waves exceed the 20‐foot minimum threshold and Invitees contend for the $98K prize purse. The traditional opening ceremony honoring this silver anniversary will be one to remember, taking place at 2pm, December 3rd, 2009, at Waimea Bay.
INVITEES
Andy Irons, Hawaii
Brian Keaulana, Hawaii
Brock Little, Hawaii
Bruce Irons, Hawaii
Carlos Burle, Brazil
Clyde Aikau, Hawaii
Darryl Virostko, California
Greg Long, California
Jamie O’Brien, Hawaii
Jamie Sterling, Hawaii
Kelly Slater, Florida
Keone Downing, Hawaii
Makuakai Rothman, Hawaii
Mark Healey, Hawaii
Michael Ho, Hawaii
Noah Johnson, Hawaii
Peter Mel, California
Reef McIntosh, Hawaii
Ross Clarke-Jones, Australia
Rusty Keaulana, Hawaii
Shane Dorian, Hawaii
Sunny Garcia, Hawaii
Titus Kinimaka, Hawaii
Tom Carroll, Australia
Grant “Twiggy” Baker, South Africa
Ibon Amatriain, Euskadi
Ramon Navarro, Chile
Takayuki Wakita, Japan
ALTERNATES
Kala Alexander, Hawaii – Aikau Family Pick
Pancho Sullivan, Hawaii
Garrett McNamara, Hawaii
Kohl Christensen, Hawaii
Dave Wassel, Hawaii
Keoni Watson, Hawaii
Nathan Fletcher, Hawaii
Ian Walsh, Hawaii
Danny Fuller, Hawaii
Kalani Chapman, Hawaii
Taylor Knox, California
Chava Greenlee, Hawaii
Jamie Mitchell, Australia
Myles Padaca, Hawaii
Tony Moniz, Hawaii
Darrick Doerner, Hawaii
Ken “Skin Dog” Collins, California
Ross Williams, Hawaii
Derek Ho, Hawaii
Paul Paterson, Australia
Anthony Tashnick, California
Koby Abberton, Australia
Laurent Pujol, France
Laurie Towner, Australia
HONORARY INVITEES
Mark Foo, Hawaii
Todd Chesser, Hawaii
Tiger Espere, Hawaii
Jay Moriarty, California
Peter Davi, California
Lester Falatea, Tahiti
Monster Energy will be presenting the Monster Drop Specialty Award for the surfer who makes the most critical drop and rides out of it during the event. The judges will determine the winner the day of the competition and will present the chosen surfer with a unique Monster Drop Specialty Award Trophy.
Held in honor of the legendary Hawaiian waterman, Eddie Aikau, The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau gathers the most skillful and dynamic big‐wave surfers from around the globe. It is the world’s longest running and most prestigious big‐wave invitational.
The universal appeal and strength of “The Eddie” is a testament to the human spirit it honors and that we all seek to connect with: a life lived with passion, dedicated with meaning, and exited from heroically. Just 31 when he lost his life in an attempt to save others, Aikau has physically been gone now for as long as he was here. But far from being forgotten, his life story is now woven into the fabric of Hawaii.
The Eddie has only run seven times in the past 24 years. You don’t want to miss it when the Bay calls the momentous day. Go to Quiksilver.com/Eddie for swell updates, happenings from the North Shore, and to sign up for text alerts, to make sure you’re the first to know when the Bay calls the day.
For more information, log onto www.aspworldtour.com
C C
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in Central Coast, Surf Reports.For Sale - I have a Surtech (Tuflite) Velzy 12 foot Hawaiian Paddle board (not SUP) for sale. Excellent condition. $950.00 (cost $1600.00 + new). This board is a standard class racing paddle board and goes like the clappers, very fast. Good cross trainer for paddling on flat days. If you are interested I can send photos. Contact Matt at ms2007@bigpond.com
Overcast, dry and cooler on the Central Coast this Wednesday morning. The swell is smooth with a lot of water movement at 3 – 6 feet from the southeast. There is a light southwest breeze forecast to go northeast later. High tide at 0945 and low tide around 1630. Local barometer 1008 hpa, 17 degrees C. 94% humidity. Have a good one.
It Ain’t Permanent, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on November 18th, 2009 in Byron, Local Colour.Well at about 3.30pm today the long awaited southerly change blew through Byron Bay. What a relief, the temperature dropped, the humidity dropped rapidly and there was a mad scramble as everyone tried to hit the water before anyone else worked out that the wind had changed. But if you’re hoping for a few days of southerly winds, I suspect you may want to think again, it ain’t permanent, it’s not strong enough to last for even a day or two. It’s still spring in the bay, and that usually means a weak southerly blow first, then another quick heatwave before another stronger more stable frontal system appears. Of course I’m just guessing here, which is code for making excuses if I’m wrong and paving the way to gloat if I got it right. There were a few nice waves to be had this afternoon as the change blew through. But as usual I won’t be saying where, if you didn’t find them, then you’ll need to look harder, after all that’s part of the fun of surfing in Byron Bay. The weather and conditions are always changing, if you don’t move with the changes you miss out. It’s kind of a good metaphor for life itself. Just flow with the changes rather than trying to work it all out, and don’t take it too seriously because it’s not permanent anyway. It is just what it is, In Byron Bay Today.
That’s the day done
Posted on November 17th, 2009 in Ulladulla.Hello Friends,
Here’s the final installment for today… After getting out of the water, we headed to the Marlin for a pub lunch and a fortifying libation. I wrote my midday update and then we decided to have a poke around south of Ulladulla.
First stop was Dolphin Point. It was a brief visit because a) it was totally blown out from the SE wind, and b) the swell was big and horrid looking. Inspired we continued south to a secret spot known only to a select few.
There we found that, unlike Dolphin Point, it was not big. Worse, it was clearly the wrong swell direction. Appropriately enough, we had a long discussion about secret spots. Views were exchanged as we walked through a particularly lovely bit of NSW coastal forest. While no resolution was arrived at, we did see a couple very fine stretches of empty beach. I grabbed a picture of what looked like it might possibly be a surfable wave. I include it below for your contemplation.
Those more familiar with the vagaries of this coast may wonder at our next move; we decided to take a look at Bawley point and thereabouts for the simple reason that neither of us have surfed there yet.
It’s a most attractive stretch of coast, but neither the point nor such adjacent surf guide fodder as No Toes and Guillotines was offering an attractive prospect. We plugged another CD into the deck and made our way back to Ulladulla.
It was getting late but hoping for perhaps one more quick session, we revisted the scene of our earlier triumphs. The post school folks were on it and as nearly as we could tell, they were mostly near- or even actual – pros.. So discretion being the better part of valour and all that, I decided instead to take a few snaps
as the boys took apart a juicy left (see pics below).
And now, I’m almost done with the day’s writing… a steak dinner at the bowlo and a house red have been most advantageous to my endeavours.
Who knows what tomorrow may bring (we are hopeful because the swell seems to be kicking along at much the same intensity of earlier today). I will try to bring you news of these doings in the fond hope


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