Blowy but something

Section stands up for a few seconds at DY beach.

Hello Friends,

Pretty much the conditions expected from the forecasts yesterday. Wind is out of the south at 15-25 kts this morning, so it’s not too clean in the semi-protected areas. The exposed stretches of course are even more beaten up. Swell’s lined up with the wind direction and the MHL buoy is showing a couple metres with a 10 sec period. That’s playing out as waist to shoulder high at the south end of the Longy to Dee Why stretch.

Outlook according to the models is for the swell to fade through the day toward flatness tomorrow morning. By this afternoon, the wind should be around to the E to NE, so there may be a slight improvement in north corner spots that like south swell. I’m cautious on the quality prospects because the wind will track through the easterly quarters, so it’ll be mostly a day of onshores.

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Tides: L @0843, H @1453
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Wednesday until midnight: Wind: S 13/18 knots at first, decreasing to SE 10/15 knots during the morning, then turning E/NE and increasing to 15/20 knots during the afternoon and evening.Sea: 1 to 2 metres.Swell: E/NE 1.5 to 2 metres.
Thursday: Wind: N/NE 10/15 knots early, tending N/NW 15/20 knots in the afternoon, possibly increasing to 20/30 knots. Sea: 1 to 2 metres, possibly rising to 2 to 3 metres later. Swell: NE 1 to 1.5 metres. Possible thunderstorms.
Friday: Wind: Early SW/SE change 15/25 knots.

Nick Carroll: Waimea and other notes…

Another terrific piece from Nick Carroll. The boy can write, no two ways about it… Here’s how he starts the story off (link to complete article follows)

Waimea and other notes…

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:55 pm

hey gang, thought I’d start one of those chain letters that seem to work so well when you’re reporting from some crazy surfing epicentre. And there’s no epicentre like the North Shore of Oahu right now, as evening settles and a 30-40 foot groundswell absolutely hammers this incredible coastline, setting the stage for what no doubt will tomorrow be one of the sport’s great shows.

But I’m gonna tick the clock back a bit, a day, to Sunday evening in Hawaii, when the swell had yet to hit and there was nothing but rumours swirling and the Civil Defense people were actually considering closing the roads to the North Shore to prevent unnecessary loos of life, limb, or maybe just sanity.

Read the rest of the story here ->  Australia’s Surfing Life Forum • View topic – Waimea and other notes….

Out and about mid morning

Hi all,

Had to run a few errands this morning so I grabbed the Canon 7D I have on review at the moment and took a couple snaps.  Dee Why had some okay size sets, but it’s windswell, so you tend to get momentary sections followed by shutdowns or mush-outs. Had a look at Northy and Warriewood as well. Wind was blasting into Northy so you needed to be extremely keen to go section chasing out there. Very messy indeed. Around the corner at Warriewood it wasn’t as hammered, but the conditions were almost as messy and sectiony. And it was smaller.

If you don't mind rugged onshore conditions...

Late morning action.

Narrabeen Rpt

Kinda weak & windblown. Find a corner out of the southerly, and you might go well

Eddie is on

The Eddie Aikau contest kicked off as the anticipated monster swell filled in. You can watch it live right now by going to the contest site.

Here’s the link: http://bit.ly/fromRealSurf

And Tom Carroll busted his ankle in a nasty wipeout

Australian surfing great Tom Carroll was forced out of the Eddie Aikau big wave invitational event in Hawaii after badly dislocating his ankle in huge surf.

Two-time world champion Carroll, 48, left Waimea Beach in an ambulance after his ankle separated from his shin when he dropped down a wave and was compressed by the force of the lip crashed down on him.

Surfers were confronted with wave face heights in the eight to 12 metre range on Monday and rising, causing organisers to delay the start of the contest until Tuesday.

“I took a wave, it wasn’t that big a wave, just a real freaky accident,” said Carroll, bitterly disappointed to be out of the contest.

C C

Fine, dry and warm on the Central Coast this Wednesday morning.  The swell is ruffled and small at 1 – 2 feet from the east southeast.  There is a light southeast breeze forecast to go northeast later.  Low tide at 0845 and high tide around 1455.  Local barometer 1006 hpa, 18 degrees C. 91% humidity.   Have a good one. For Sale -  I have a Surtech (Tuflite) Velzy 12 foot Hawaiian Paddle board (not SUP) for sale.  Excellent condition. $950.00 (cost $1600.00 + new).  This board is a standard (stock) class racing paddle board and goes like the clappers, very fast.  Good cross trainer for paddling on flat days.  If you are interested I can send photos.  Contact Matt at  ms2007@bigpond.com

Same As It Ever Was, In Byron Bay Today.

Click here for the full update, In Byron Bay Today.

The amount of windswept days in a row tends to jiggle loose the old memory files in me. For me it’s  Tom Waits singing something from ‘Franks Wild Years’ or various Talking Heads songs. I suspect it all fits in to a spring I spent here many moons ago when Byron was just sleepy little undeveloped town. I was listening to a lot of both those acts at the time and that year the wind was radical for months straight. Funny how the mind seems to stitch things together then brings them back up years later when triggered. These days, when the wind gets up, there’s David Byrne & Tom Waits battling for supremacy of the grey cells in my melon. So, after that completely meaningless and irrellevent insight into my weird little world, I guess I’d better tell you how it was in Byron Bay today. Windy is the first  and last word that springs to mind, and it looks like tomorrow may be the same. But we live in hope; there were a few little waves, and a few windswept souls out there making the best of it regardless, as did we also. To those folks who made the effort to ride a few windswept lumpy bumps we salute you. There’s something honourable about just making the best of it no matter what, In Byron Bay Today.