Greetings from the north shore of Oahu – we are staying right on the beach near Pipe.
There is a 25-30ft swell hitting right now as I key this message in.
Incredible scenes! Guys are towing in at Outer Log Cabins right in front of where we are staying (but a long way out). It is absolutely mountainous out there. Jack and I just checked Waimea – a couple of kms down the road. There are 30 plus guys out in insanely large surf. One huge set even closed out the Bay. Yikes! Watched all the drama of getting in and out of the shorebreak – every aspect of that place looks to be a major challenge on a day like today. Saw some breathtaking drops and truly horrible wipeouts.
For the record we had some nice waves at Velzyland and Lanikea over the past couple of days – but today is a completely different story. Looks like we we won’t be getting back into the water for a while yet.
