This morning Luke, Manabu, Steve and I had “Rachel’s Point” all to ourselves, which made the session even more fun. The waves were inconsistent and again shifty but less scary-powerful than the last time, so today I tried to position myself in the short takeoff zone.
For a little while I was kooking it up. As I took a drop, I got distracted by a rock boil in the shallow water under my board’s nose. So what did I do? I fell on it! Then I did a split on a cock-eyed landing, fortunately without injurious results. And Luke almost ran me over once (guess the red helmet isn’t attention-getting enough). But then I got dialed in and things turned fun. I rode several fast lefts with fun drops, one head-high and another half a foot over my head (by Luke’s estimate).
Luke’s wife Beth took some video from the beach early on, and didn’t get my best rides (it seems those are never recorded, except in memory).
I almost got a three-fer video with all of the guys riding in succession: Luke on a wave, then Manabu on the next… but Steve didn’t catch the third one.
Surfline: New SSW (180-200) energy fills in today, mixing with old SSW (190-205) swell and minor NW windswell. Expect inconsistent surf in the knee-chest high range early on, with bigger sets showing later today. Generally light wind on tap right now. Buoy 46012: SSW 3.6 ft @ 13.8 sec.
