on tuesday at 1 pm: 1 – 2 footers, occasional three-foot ridges, at our rivermouth point – end-of-swell calm, under low ceiling, still warm – i caught 9 waves in about 30 minutes – low-key fun, alone, with one brother finally joining me – gulls for onlookers, crowding the point at high tide – i carefully respected them, after 1/2 flew off, and i waded out along the point, instead of walking on it – by the end of my short session, all my spectators were back – changing conditions, some rain at last after record dry, sunny summer – tofino, some 175 km hence, looks much more blustery right now, with plenty of long wave action, not too much higher … – good times coming ….
