Archive for September 2010
Swell building
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Big Picture.Hello all,
Just thought I’d mention that the swell seems to be coming up as expected. Since this morning the average size at sea has gone from around 1.5 metres to two metres and the average period has jumped from around 8 sec to 11 sec. I chased waves (without much success) at Longy from around midday and during the time I was in the water, it was pretty obvious that the energy levels were moving up steadily. After I got out, I made a quick loop up to Warriewood to see how the stretch up to Mona looked. There were only half a dozen in the water at Warriewood and not many more up toward the middle of the beach at Mona. Quality was okay in terms of size and wind, but the waits are long and despite the MHL data indicating SE for the swell direction, it still looked fairly south to me.
Only three or four bods in at Northy, but then it’s not the ideal swell direction and they weren’t having a lot of success. Still I managed to get a couple shots to share.
Should continue to build overnight and tomorrow morning ought to be substantially bigger than midday today.
Getting bigger.
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Longy.Midday: Longy is getting a little bigger. 2 – 3 foot with a bigger set now and then.. Not all that consistant but at least there are a few waves around. The bank out in front of the lagoon seems to be where the waves are. There is a left hander just north of it. Few guys are starting to get out there. Strong westerly blowing making hard to get them. Great conditions for a nice little barrel.
Plan to call in sick Friday.
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in South Carolina.Swell should be increasing in the 3 foot + range as early as Thursday at sun set. But Friday is the day to call in as the swell should be on the same scale as Danielle (head high plus late in the day into Saturday). I am seeing winds not over 10 mph from the south which should make for a pleasant ride.
Roberto
Calm before the storm.
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Longy.There were a few small waves at Longy this morning before it faded at around 8. 2 – 3 foot before dropping. Could be the calm before the storm. Good waves expected in the next couple of days.
Smooth and on the up…
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Central Coast, Surf Reports.Fine, dry and mild on the Central Coast this Thursday morning. The swell is smooth and inconsistent at 1 – 3 feet from the southeast building later. There is a light west southwest breeze. Low tide at 0810 and high tide around 1455. Local barometer is 1009 Kpa it is 11 degrees and 66% humidity. Have a good one.
Queensy/Freshy/Curly Rpt
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Surf Reports.Wow! I’m just reviewing my morning photos, and they make the surf look WAY better than it actually is. Well done me! Despite the visual record, it’s really kinda weak & sectiony at all 3 spots. Mostly under shoulder-high, and the early crew are already all over it. I haven’t seen the beach the past coupla days, so apparently this morning is some huge improvement. Oh dear
A Mixed Bag, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on September 16th, 2010 in Byron.
Yes it was offshore, yes we had some swell and yes I did something silly, in Byron Bay today. I’ve always said; don’t paddle out into a competitive and already frustrated crowd it’s just silly. But that’s exactly what I did in Byron Bay today. You see that kind of silliness can be contagious, and before long I found myself enmeshed in it all. I realised I’d broken my own rule, nobody to blame but myself. So we packed up and left to go find somewhere quiet. Sure the quality was less, but hey it was empty. We got few quiet lines, found peace of mind and some semblance of being at ease once again. Pretty soon we were taking in the view and remembering to just be grateful for what Huey keeps dishing up here, the mixed bag of life, In Byron Bay Today.
Dusk report
Posted on September 15th, 2010 in Dee Why, Long Reef, North Narrabeen.Hello Friends,
Kept an eye on the wind all day, hoping there might be a glass off for the late. It didn’t really smooth off enough for my taste, but the wind was lighter and there were plenty of folks in the water along the Dee Why to Longy stretch. Bigger set wave faces were into the head high range by my reckoning, however in addition to being fairly lumpy and junky, the 8 sec average period means that even those ones don’t have a heap of power.
Tomorrow through to Saturday, just quietly, is looking rather promising… might get to bed a bit earlier than usual just on the off chance! Hope to have some fresh galleries out of this pulse…
go well!
Forecast for Thursday from the Bureau of Meterology
Winds: Westerly 20 to 25 knots tending west to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots around midday then tending westerly 25 to 30 knots by early evening. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres from the late morning. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore in the evening.
Forecast for FridayWinds: Westerly 20 to 30 knots tending west to southwesterly 20 to 25 knots around dawn then becoming southwesterly 15 to 20 knots around midday. Winds tending west to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 3 metres decreasing below 1.5 metres around midday. Swell: Southerly 3 metres increasing to 4 metres from the late morning. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Forecast for SaturdayWinds: West to southwesterly 5 to 15 knots tending south to southwesterly up to 10 knots during the evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly 3 to 4 metres decreasing to 2 to 3 metres from midday. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore in the early morning.




Posted on September 15th, 2010 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
It’s cleaned up remarkably overnight but the swell’s not exactly pumping. As the day kicked off it was about 8 seconds apart and coming from the SE at around 1.5m. For Dee Why that translated into a marginal knee to waist high. There wasn’t anyone in the water partaking, so that tells you something.
As the Bureau’s forecast details below, the wind is set to back off today and stay out of the SW most of the time before getting more around to the west toward dark. But it doesn’t look as though the swell will be doing much in the meantime. That low pressure system has to get further out to sea and the big area of southerly fetch below Tasmania has to drift further to the east before it can start loading up the ocean with corduroy late tomorrow.
The models have remained comparatively steadfast about our prospects for a significant south swell event starting up from around lunchtime Thursday and building into the 4 metre range on Friday. If all goes as they currently forecast, the energy will peak overnight Friday but still be pushing along pretty seriously for Saturday. Curiously, some predictions are showing it all falling in a heap on Sunday but bouncing back a little on Monday. However, there isn’t unanimity on this score and some riffs on the underlying WAM data reckon it’ll be good basically from Friday through Monday. As usual, the models propose and Huey disposes.
Have yourself a top old day and go well with your plans!

Weather Situation from the Bureau of Meterology
A low pressure system off the central coast of NSW will deepen and move rapidly away from the coast later Wednesday morning and winds should ease gradually. Another cold front is expected to move over the southwestern Tasman Sea later on Thursday.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnightWinds: Southwesterly 25 to 35 knots decreasing below 30 knots around midday then decreasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending west to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots by early evening. Seas: 3 to 4 metres decreasing to 2 metres around midday then increasing to 3 metres later in the evening. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres decreasing to about 1 metre late in the morning then tending southeasterly 1.5 metres from midday.
Forecast for Thursday
Winds: Westerly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 20 to 25 knots around dawn then tending west to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots around midday. Winds tending westerly 25 to 30 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 3 metres decreasing to 2 metres during the morning then increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres increasing to 1.5 to 3 metres from the late morning.
Forecast for Friday
Winds: Westerly 20 to 30 knots tending west to southwesterly 20 to 25 knots during the morning then tending south to southwesterly 10 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending west to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots during the evening. Seas: Up to 3 metres decreasing below 1.5 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Southerly 2 to 3 metres increasing to 3 to 4 metres from the morning.
The Goat’s Surf Forecast
Posted on September 15th, 2010 in Goat's Forecast.Surf Forecast issued Wednesday 15 September 2010: Seven day outlook for Sydney and nearby coast…
Small tomorrow… then Large…
Fresh W//SW breezes will be pushing along Southern Ocean swell from a Low way down near Antarctica… swinging around the bottom of the continent and then up the East Coast and out into the wide Pacific. It’s an ill wind that brings no one some good. Have a good one.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thursday: Around 1 metre or so East South East.
Friday: Up… Around 3, maybe 4 metres South East.
Saturday: 2-3 metres East South East.
Sunday: 2-3 metres South East.
Monday: About 2 metres South East.
Tuesday: in the 1-2 metre range East South East.
Wednesday: Ditto.
Water temp is 17-18.
Weather from The Bureau
Strong wind warning for New South Wales waters between Broken Bay and Port Kembla.
Forecast for the rest of Wednesday
Partly cloudy. Winds west to southwesterly averaging up to 30 km/h.
Max 21
Forecast for Thursday
Mostly sunny. Winds westerly averaging up to 30 km/h.
Min 11 Max 20
Forecast for Friday
Morning cloud. Winds west to southwesterly averaging up to 25 km/h.
Min 10 Max 19
Forecast for Saturday
Mostly sunny. Winds westerly and light tending south to southwesterly up to 20 km/h during the afternoon.
Min 10 Max 20
Forecast for Sunday
Partly cloudy. Isolated showers. Light winds.
Min 12 Max 19
Forecast for Monday
Partly cloudy. Isolated showers. Light winds.
Min 13 Max 18
Forecast for Tuesday
Partly cloudy. Light winds tending northwesterly up to 25 km/h during the afternoon.
Min 12 Max 21


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