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Posted by: on October 6th, 2010

Hello Friends,

Light s to se wind mid-morning, but it’s supposed to swing NE later. Swell is out of the east at around the 1.5 metre mark but with a less than amazing average period of about 8 seconds. I reckon you might get the odd chest high one at exposed spots, but that mostly it’ll be waist high or less. It looks as though the surf situation will bumble along at the present settings for about another day and then begin to swing into a generally southerly pattern. Right now looks like there could be a little pulse at south spots around Saturday…

Here’s the latest from the Bureau

Weather Situation from the BoM

A strong high pressure system centred over New Zealand extends a ridge to the New South Wales coast. This pattern will continue to bring generally northeasterly winds to coastal areas today, although the ridge will start to weaken as a trough and associated cold front move into western New South Wales. A vigorous southerly change is expected to accompany the passage of this system, reaching the southern coast early Thursday and continuing to the north coast by late evening. Following this, another ridge will move across from the west during Friday and Saturday, with winds easing accordingly.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds: East to northeasterly 5 to 10 knots becoming northeasterly 10 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres in the afternoon. Swell: Easterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Forecast for Thursday

Winds: Northwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending west to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots during the morning then tending southeast to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots around midday. Seas: increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres around midday then increasing to 3 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres. Isolated thunderstorms until afternoon, mainly offshore.
Forecast for Friday

Winds: Southeasterly 5 to 10 knots tending westerly up to 15 knots during the morning then tending southerly 15 to 25 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Southerly about 2 metres decreasing to 1 metre during the evening.

 

Yesterday’s little swell got belted last night in the Santa Barbara-Ventura region as a front came through. Drove around in search of waves this morning, but it was very weak and just too small – even for a mal. Eventually gave up on it and went for coffee – as you do. Outlook is for more microness in this part of the world. Up north in Santa Cruz, where the water is colder, they’re getting waves, but soCal is outta luck. Pretty typical for this time of year it has to be said.

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