Archive for November 2010
Hmmm. Let’s see… this morning starts out with rain and S-SSW winds of 10-20kts. Out at sea off Sydney, the MHL waverider buoy is showing a couple metres of south swell at about 7 seconds apart. The Bureau says things aren’t going to get better for us either because the wind is set to back off a touch, but drift around to the east and northeast and stay at around 10-15kts. And the rain will continue too.
Can’t see the beach from the crows nest yet, so will get out and about with a camera to document the situation soon.
Tides: L @0900, H @1500
A high pressure system is moving to the east of Tasmania with a ridge to the northern Tasman Sea. The high is expected to become semi stationary over the southeastern Tasman Sea by Wednesday maintaining the ridge to the north coast and north to northeasterly winds along the coast..
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds: Inshore: Southerly 15 to 20 knots becoming east to northeast 10 to 15 knots. Offshore: East to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots. increasing to 15 to 20 knots later in the evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres. The chance of thunderstorms.
Forecast for Wednesday
Winds: East to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots. Seas: 1 to 1.5 metres increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening. Swell: Southeasterly about 1 metre. Isolated thunderstorms in the afternoon and evening.
Forecast for Thursday
Winds: Northeasterly about 20 knots. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres. Scattered thunderstorms during the morning, mainly offshore.
Even with some pretty heavy-duty foam beneath you today, you’d be struggling to catch a wave at Dee Why. Unless you’re a pint-sized grom on a paddle board–then perhaps there’s an outside chance…
Tim Bonython’s on the North Shore for the start of the season and he sent us a little postcard…
Took a drive from Collaroy to Dee Why this morning and there is not much on offer. Long Reef is 1 to maybe 2 foot and the SE wind is making it almost unsurfable. Collaroy is quite smooth and there is a small wave there. The SE swell is not getting in. No one out. Dee Why is not as protected but again is only 2 – 2.5 foot and a little bumpy. Wind expected to go more onshore today then swing more to the NE for the next couple of days and into the weekend. Swell to turn with it but not gain any real size. Rain also to stay for the next few days and possibly to Monday. Surf Photos of You.
The buoys are saying the period has gone up to a whopping 8 seconds, but from where I stood it still just looked grey and small and weak. Sigh!
The sun came out, the easterlies came in and so did the blueys late this afternoon, in Byron bay today. It’s a tad early in the season for blue bottles, in fact it’s about six weeks too early. But here they are, a stinging the unprepared in the bay. La Nina or global warming, who knows really, we just go on what’s placed before us each and every day, at this stage however all signs are pointing towards a pretty wild summer in the bay. Nonstop easterlies are a midsummer wind and blue bottles usually come in on them. But here we are at the end of spring and this pattern has been cycling around for about a month already. So what’s next, well only time will tell, but if I were to hazard a very rough and ready guess, I’d have to lean towards, plenty of rain possible cyclonic weather and a whole lot of lumpy bumpy swell over the coming season. But then again, I’m not weather man, just a crusty old salt, so we’ll have to wait and see what Huey has in store for us, In Byron Bay Today.
Went out this afternoon and on my way swung by Manly, Curly and Dee Why to see what was what. Short version: not much!
Manly was showing small lines in the knee to waist high range, while Curly was maybe a touch bigger but just as gutless and weak. Dee Why was smaller again. The MHL buoy is showing the swell as straight south at two metres with an average period approaching 8 seconds, so I’m surprised that there was so little energy at the north ends. I guess the swell is just going right past us.
Outlook for tomorrow is for more greyness starting out small in the morning and then weakening during the day. There is a possibility that the NE’ly will push up some more lumps and bumps for the extra keen in the afternoon.
This morning I wrote:
The ocean is as grey as the sky, there’s only a tiny short period south wind swell and out at sea, it’s white horses to the horizon. Swell is showing at around the two metre mark, but the average period is a fluffy 5 seconds and the direction is showing as SSW on the MHL buoy off Sydney. Wind is out of the SSW at 15-20 kts.
Weather Situation from the BoM
A low pressure trough off New South Wales central coast will weaken later today and Tuesday as a high pressure system moves east of Tasmania extending a ridge to the northern Tasman Sea. The high is expected to become semi stationary over the southern Tasman Sea by Wednesday maintaining the ridge to the north coast.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds: South to southwesterly 20 to 25 knots tending south to southwesterly during the morning then tending southeasterly 10 to 20 knots by early evening. Winds decreasing to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots later in the evening. Seas: Up to 2 metres. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres.
Forecast for Tuesday
Winds: East to northeasterly 5 to 15 knots becoming northeasterly 20 to 25 knots around midday. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres around midday then increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening. Swell: Easterly about 2 metres. The chance of thunderstorms.
Forecast for Wednesday
Winds: Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots increasing to 15 to 25 knots during the afternoon. Seas: 1 to 2 metres. Swell: Easterly about 2 metres. Isolated thunderstorms from midday.
California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions.
After about a week of flat surf and/or bad weather, and on a holiday weekend to boot, the Hook was predictably loaded with surfers. As I paddled around the pack on the outside, looking for a more open spot farther east, a nearly head-high wave started to wall up behind me. I wasn’t intending to try for any in that crowd, but the wave was aimed right at me and the takeoff zone was somehow clear – an opportunity too good to pass up. I spun quickly and paddled for it, making the drop beside a swarm of surprised shortboarders, who were milling about like juvenile koi in a pond, wondering where I came from. Forced left to avoid them, my ride was short but oh so sweet.
I continued to make my way east to Sharks, where I found Luke in the lineup on his longboard. The waves were smaller and sluggish, so we moved inside and then even farther east close to Privates, where we had a little peak all to ourselves, except for a seal and an otter. I was getting some rides but other waves were passing me by, and Luke again suggested that I kick my feet since I’m now on a shorter board. As I paddled for my next wave, I felt it starting to move on without me, so I kicked fast, felt the wave grab my board, popped up and rode a nice right. Woot! Thanks for the advice, buddy.
It was great to have a private peak, though that’s not why they call it Privates. We got lots of waves, small but fun and all ours. Part of the cliff had collapsed shortly before I arrived, so we paddled back to the new Hook stairs instead of walking along the narrow beach and rocks at the base. Stopping on the far side of the lineup in front of the stairs, I caught one in for a stylin’ exit. Stoked!
Surfline: NW swell mix provides head high+ to well overhead+ surf at well exposed breaks today although steady NW winds kept conditions poor for exposed spots. The more South facing breaks were much cleaner but much smaller as well. Weak Southern hemi energy continues to limp in also. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 8.9 ft at 12.9 s NW / WIND WAVE: 6.2 ft at 7.7 s WNW / WVHT: 10.5 ft / APD: 7.7 s / MWD: 317°
Chilly, windy, grey, small, weak, blah blah blah. This is tiresome, and I think I’ve forgotten how to ride a surfboard
Headed out into the hustle and bustle of town on a Sunday, to check what was going down, in Byron Bay today. No surprises really as we were faced with a typical late November Sunday in the bay. There were Schoolies roaming around looking just a tad worse for wear. Plenty of cloud layer as seasonal trade winds threatened to move in some rain. And although lumpy and bumpy, as is its want this time of year, there were still some waves in the bay. Families came out to play, a few local groms turned up to carve some nice waves. The birds were out hassling tourists for their chips, while the aroma of well barbecued bangers wafted through the air. So maybe no surprises, yet still one couldn’t help but take it all in and smile a little, just for being there, In Byron Bay Today.