Rainy start to Tuesday

Dee Why: Sigh…

Even with some pretty heavy-duty foam beneath you today, you’d be struggling to catch a wave at Dee Why. Unless you’re a pint-sized grom on a paddle board–then perhaps there’s an outside chance…

Postcard: Eukai Beach yesterday

Tim Bonython’s on the North Shore for the start of the season and he sent us a little postcard…

Small and wet.

Took a drive from Collaroy to Dee Why this morning and there is not much on offer.  Long Reef is 1 to maybe 2 foot and the SE wind is making it almost unsurfable.  Collaroy is quite smooth and there is a small wave there.  The SE swell is not getting in.  No one out.  Dee Why is not as protected but again is only 2 – 2.5 foot and a little bumpy.  Wind expected to go more onshore today then swing more to the NE for the next couple of days and into the weekend.  Swell to turn with it but not gain any real size.  Rain also to stay for the next few days and possibly to Monday.  Surf Photos of You.

Shire Rpt

The buoys are saying the period has gone up to a whopping 8 seconds, but from where I stood it still just looked grey and small and weak. Sigh!

Blueys Already, In Byron Bay Today.

The sun came out, the easterlies came in and so did the blueys late this afternoon, in Byron bay today. It’s a tad early in the season for blue bottles, in fact it’s about six weeks too early. But here they are, a stinging the unprepared in the bay. La Nina or global warming, who knows really, we just go on what’s placed before us each and every day, at this stage however all signs are pointing towards a pretty wild summer in the bay. Nonstop easterlies are a midsummer wind and blue bottles usually come in on them. But here we are at the end of spring and this pattern has been cycling around for about a month already. So what’s next, well only time will tell, but if I were to hazard a very rough and ready guess, I’d have to lean towards, plenty of rain possible cyclonic weather and a whole lot of lumpy bumpy swell over the coming season. But then again, I’m not weather man, just a crusty old salt, so we’ll have to wait and see what Huey has in store for us, In Byron Bay Today.

Stay away day

Kicks (Hook/Sharks/Privates)

After about a week of flat surf and/or bad weather, and on a holiday weekend to boot, the Hook was predictably loaded with surfers. As I paddled around the pack on the outside, looking for a more open spot farther east, a nearly head-high wave started to wall up behind me. I wasn’t intending to try for any in that crowd, but the wave was aimed right at me and the takeoff zone was somehow clear – an opportunity too good to pass up. I spun quickly and paddled for it, making the drop beside a swarm of surprised shortboarders, who were milling about like juvenile koi in a pond, wondering where I came from. Forced left to avoid them, my ride was short but oh so sweet.

I continued to make my way east to Sharks, where I found Luke in the lineup on his longboard. The waves were smaller and sluggish, so we moved inside and then even farther east close to Privates, where we had a little peak all to ourselves, except for a seal and an otter. I was getting some rides but other waves were passing me by, and Luke again suggested that I kick my feet since I’m now on a shorter board. As I paddled for my next wave, I felt it starting to move on without me, so I kicked fast, felt the wave grab my board, popped up and rode a nice right. Woot! Thanks for the advice, buddy.

It was great to have a private peak, though that’s not why they call it Privates. We got lots of waves, small but fun and all ours. Part of the cliff had collapsed shortly before I arrived, so we paddled back to the new Hook stairs instead of walking along the narrow beach and rocks at the base. Stopping on the far side of the lineup in front of the stairs, I caught one in for a stylin’ exit. Stoked!

Surfline: NW swell mix provides head high+ to well overhead+ surf at well exposed breaks today although steady NW winds kept conditions poor for exposed spots. The more South facing breaks were much cleaner but much smaller as well. Weak Southern hemi energy continues to limp in also. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 8.9 ft at 12.9 s NW / WIND WAVE: 6.2 ft at 7.7 s WNW / WVHT: 10.5 ft / APD: 7.7 s / MWD: 317°

Curly Rpt

Chilly, windy, grey, small, weak, blah blah blah. This is tiresome, and I think I’ve forgotten how to ride a surfboard

Being There, In Byron Bay Today.

Headed out into the hustle and bustle of town on a Sunday, to check what was going down, in Byron Bay today. No surprises really as we were faced with a typical late November Sunday in the bay. There were Schoolies roaming around looking just a tad worse for wear. Plenty of cloud layer as seasonal trade winds threatened to move in some rain. And although lumpy and bumpy, as is its want this time of year, there were still some waves in the bay. Families came out to play, a few local groms turned up to carve some nice waves. The birds were out hassling tourists for their chips, while the aroma of well barbecued bangers wafted through the air. So maybe no surprises, yet still one couldn’t help but take it all in and smile a little, just for being there, In Byron Bay Today.