on saturday at 430 pm: maxing at 2 feet, or four-foot faces – it was drooping a little around our rivermouth point, under a slowly rising tide, covering 2/3rds of the point – churning, a little blustery, but still offering nice, slow opportunities on the left, breaking out into the middle of the rivermouth, unusually turbulent today – i caught three waves rapidly, two nice, long, semi-barrels, before numbing hands brought me in – all alone with the gulls, but plenty of surfmobile traffic from further west, suggests fine conditions at the lost village beach, a further 25 km up our nearly deserted coast road, through forests a little too cultivated, but still reassuring – turning milder after a week of heavy rains – **********- And what shall I give unto him who has left his plough in midfurrow, or to him who has stopped the wheel of his winepress? Shall my heart become a tree heavy-laden with fruit that I may gather and give unto them? – k gibran ……
