Archive for January 2011
Shire Rpt
Posted on January 23rd, 2011 in Surf Reports.As has been noted, yesterday’s lumps and bumps are just memories now. Glorious day for the beach, but the wave offerings are back to waist-high – and it’s pretty crowded too
Beautiful morning but 1 – 2 foot.
Posted on January 23rd, 2011 in Long Reef.The SE swell has dropped to 1 – 2 foot . Inside bombie is sort of breaking and its all a longboard. Beach is small and closing out. Its a small kids surfing day. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You
Lets Do It Again
Posted on January 23rd, 2011 in Byron, Local Colour, News Stories.
You know every now and again we get a shot that folks just go nuts over, in Byron Bay today. This last week it was the shot of the massive left cranking off Julian Rocks last Sunday morning in the bay. The response has been huge, massive traffic, tonnes of feedback and heaps of folks asking for the whole story. How big was it how thick, and how many in the set and do we have more shots? Well I can’t answer them all, but I can say this, it was a massive and very thick swell, at least a hundred metre thick, which is what caused it jack so hard as it stalled when it hit the rocks. The shot we published was the second wave of the set, it was the meanest. This one is the third it was actually a tad bigger and a little more perfect, but less evil in its bowl section as the other two had already left plenty of water over the reef, In Byron Bay Today.
A little in the locker still v.2
Posted on January 22nd, 2011 in At large, Dee Why, No Mans, North Narrabeen.Hello Friends,
Light breezes this morning are combining with a surprisingly indolent little south swell to lure a fair number of punters on a sunny Saturday morning. The numbers from the MHL are showing swell coming from the SSE at a touch under two metres and around 11 seconds apart. I was surprised to see how small it was at the north end of the Collaroy-Narrabeen stretch and at No Man’s to Dee Why. There were the occasional sets of around waist high, maybe a bit bigger, but there were also quite long waits between them and the quality was not great. The incoming tide was probably not helping much, and those flat summer banks are still the dominant feature.
Keep the expectations modest and with a bit of effort, you should be able to find somewhere to get wet.
I’m with the Goat on the outlook for the coming week. His call (see down the page) lines up quite well with this morning’s observations and run of the forecast models. For what it’s worth, I’m still liking the look of that area off to the NE of NZ. Some of the long range models are showing the fetch building up a nice little pulse of east swell for the east coast by around this time next week. The wind forecast doesn’t look great, but then it doesn’t look totally ‘orrible either. Could be just your average onshore pattern (ie get in early before it junks out).
TIDES: H @1050, L @1720
Weather Situation
A high pressure system west of Tasmania is moving eastwards, with a brief southerly change expected along the NSW south coast this morning ahead of it. By Sunday the high will move to the southeast of Tasmania.
A cold front is expected to move northwards along the southern coast during Monday. It should then stall along the Mid North Coast during Tuesday.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds: East to northeasterly 5 to 10 knots increasing to 10 to 15 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southeasterly about 1.5 metres.
Forecast for Sunday
Winds: North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots becoming northeasterly 15 to 20 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres by early evening. Swell: Southeasterly 1 metre.
Forecast for Monday
Winds: North to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots increasing to 20 to 30 knots during the afternoon ahead of a late southerly change 20 to 30 knots. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres increasing up to 3 metres. Swell: Southeasterly 1 metre.
PICS: Curl Curl, Sat 22 Jan 1000-1115
Posted on January 22nd, 2011 in Click! Pics for folk, Curl Curl, Top stories.
Got out and about with a camera this morning at Curly where the swell seemed to be up to the most good. I got there around 1000 (looks like it was just after Doug from wozthatyou finished!) and worked my way from one end of the beach and back again over the next 1:15hrs. Came back with a couple hundred snaps for my gallery.
If you were in the water during that time, have a look through the pics. And if you were there earlier, go check Doug’s shots!
As per usual all pics are for sale. Just click on the one you’re interested in and then look for the buying options link top left.
click the pic to check out the gallery!
Blind People Shouldn’t Surf in Crowds (Capitola)
Posted on January 22nd, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions. With a big WNW groundswell coming up through the day, I had a notion that Capitola might be good for an early afternoon session. When Darren, J-Bird and I arrived, it was firing, with set waves on the outside peak going slightly overhead. Truth be told, I hadn't expected it to be quite that big. Still recovering from jetlag and a string of nights with little sleep, I was looking for something more mellow. But it the shape was good, long pealing rights, too nice to pass up on a warm summery day, although there was a dismaying crowd already on it.J-Bird and I walked east on the beach to paddle out with less of the energetic whitewater in our path. Just after I reached the outside at an empty peak east of the main one, a set came through and I caught a fast and fun head-high right. When J-Bird joined me, I told her I'd stay there, away from the crowd. She soon paddled over to the main peak to meet up with Darren. I caught another fun wave, but then my peak clogged up with a six-pack of shortboarders, so I headed west to join my buddies.
I stopped to chat with Darren, who was sitting on the inside, but after a few minutes we both had to paddle toward the horizon to get out of the way of an outside set. We made it over the first wave or two, but the next was going to break farther out, and I knew I was too far in. Although she was dangerously close, a woman on a green shortboard* a bit outside and between us took off on the wave, dropping down with the breaking lip as the section closed out in front of us, and since the whitewater was about to hit me anyway, I turtled my board just a little early as a shield. She could have avoided me, and I can't believe she didn't see me, since I was wearing a red helmet and displaying my light blue surfboard in her direction as I rolled under it. (Perhaps I need to add a flashing light to the top of my helmet.) Nevertheless, instead of dropping in straight and bottom turning a few feet farther along, threading the needle between us, she inexplicably turned into me, and I felt a hard thunk and sharp pain in my left thigh as she rode her board right over me. Darren asked if I was alright, and I told him I wasn't sure but was going in to shore to check body and board. The rider had been thrown nearby in the collision, and she called out "sorry!" but didn't follow me in when I told her she'd hit my leg. The set waves were still rolling through and I caught a wave on my belly, foolishly deciding to pop up for the rest of the ride in. My leg immediately howled in protest and buckled, dumping me until I could catch another broken wave, this time all the way in on my belly.
With the tide dropping fast and the swell still rising, the waves were starting to close out more, and the paddle out was tougher than earlier. When I finally reached my previously-empty peak I was surprised that now there were 15 shortboarders on it, but I realized later I'd been pushed even farther east, almost to New Brighton. I caught a wave but again my leg refused to cooperate, and I fell. It was worse that it was my back leg that was injured, since it has to carry much of my weight on the drop. Stealing myself for the pain the next time, I caught a breaking right and popped up, staying vertical this time and riding it out, into an inside reform and all the way to the beach, where I got out and hobbled back through boulder-strewn sand to my car parked on Esplanade.
I'm glad of those two fun head-high rights I got before I was run over. But really, blind people shouldn't surf in crowds.*In Indo, green shortboards are considered back luck. It was certainly true for me.
Surfline: Solid long period NW groundswell is on the rise this afternoon as some old WNW swell mixes in, and conditions remain mostly clean. Better breaks are good for shoulder-head high-overhead surf, with top exposures in the 2-3' overhead to double overhead range on the better sets. Winds are light/variable, with exposed breaks and those that can focus the longer period energy offering up some clean, workable corners. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 9.5 ft at 19.0 s WNW 06 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 5.0 s NW / WVHT: 9.8 ft / APD: 11.4 s / MWD: 297° Tide: 4' falling fast to 1.5'
Nice wave pics at Longy 22 Jan 9.20am – 10.25am
Posted on January 22nd, 2011 in Top stories.Surf Photos of You.. I managed to grab a few pics of Long Reef this morning as the conditions were really nice. The waves were around 2 – 3 foot and some had nice small and short walls to grab a good pic on. See more at Surf Photos of You Surf Gallery
Shire Rpt
Posted on January 22nd, 2011 in Surf Reports.Seems to be a heap more swell on this side of the harbour. Big powerful corduroy from Green Hills south, plus whitewater at the point and the island
Well, well, what have we here?
Posted on January 21st, 2011 in Dee Why.Hello Friends,
When I knocked off yesterday evening, the MHL buoy was showing about 1.5 metres of ESE windswell. The average period was just 6 seconds. But at midnight Huey decided to ramp up the energy and by dawn the average period was a juicy 10 seconds with some 14sec peak component thrown in to add interest. Dee Why point was well populated by 0630.
We’re in for a warm one with an afternoon NE’r, so I’d say there should be surf options around the joint for the whole day. According to the latest run of the models, it seems that today might be the peak. Here’s hoping it sticks around in the surfable range through the weekend.
I’m hoping to get out and about with the camera today, so check back later to see what I found!
Tides: H @1000, L @1640
Coastal Waters Forecast for New South Wales
Sydney Coast: Broken Bay to Port HackingIssued at 4:50 am EDT on Friday 21 January 2011
for the period until midnight EDT Sunday 23 January 2011.Please be aware
Wind gusts can be 40 percent stronger than the averages given here, and maximum waves may be up to twice the height.Warning Summary at issue time
Nil.
Details of warnings are available on the Bureau’s website www.bom.gov.au, by telephone 1300-659-218* or through some TV and radio broadcasts.
Weather Situation
A weak high pressure system south of New Zealand extends a ridge to the New South Wales coast. A cold front will pass to the south today, bringing a southerly change to southern parts of the coast overnight or early Saturday, before the next high drifts across from the west.
Forecast for Friday until midnight
Winds: Northeasterly 10 to 15 knots. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Forecast for Saturday
Winds: North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing below 10 knots around dawn then becoming easterly and light during the morning. Winds tending east to southeasterly up to 10 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southeasterly about 1.5 metres.
Forecast for Sunday
Winds: Light winds tending northeasterly up to 15 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southeasterly 1 metre.

Nice little 3 footers.
Posted on January 21st, 2011 in Long Reef.There is a little 3 foot peaky wind swell happening early this morning. Long Reef has a few breaks along the beach. Wind light from the NE and is still light as of 9am. There are a few waves around. Good to get out in the water. Afternoon Update: I managed to get a few pics at Longy from around 12 to 2pm. The swell had increased a little but the banks were cause them to close out alot. The Bombie had a wave and there were some head high ones down the beach. Lets hope it sticks around. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You


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