Archive for January 2011
All she wrote
Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Dee Why.Hello Friends,
Have a look at the MHL data for Sydney (below) and you can see why this morning is back to small (but not absolutely flat) again. At lunch time yesterday the swell was almost east at two metres, now it’s dead south. But more importantly, the period slumped from a juicy 14sec to our usual 8s. There were a couple folks in the water patrolling the point at Dee Why and for their trouble were getting the odd waist high thing near the rocks. Another few bods were scattered along the beach where they too were winkling out the odd rideable section.
Hope you were among the many who found a wave to play on over the last couple days!
It looks from the chart as though we’re in to a declining swell pattern for the next couple days. The latest run of the models for our region is currently showing a slight bump upward on Thursday. At this stage it doesn’t look as though it’ll be spectacular, but if it plays out as forecast, we should get something in the waist to chest high range at spots that like s to se energy. We shall see…
Go well with your day!


Postcard from Tim
Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Postcard.Surf film shooter Tim Bonython sent us this from yesterday at Kirra. Cyclone Vania may have been pretty tame down this way, but look at those lines… and just imagine if they were makeable when they hit the point… there’d be a zillion keen surfers all over ‘em!

Gone…..
Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Long Reef.If you blinked you missed it. It was on every TV news last night but today its old news. The swell has dropped to about 2 – 3 foot at Long Reef. The swell is from the E and there is a light SW blowing. The wind is expected to turn ESE during the later part of the day. H 7.45am L 2.31pm. Maybe a small pulse late Friday early Saturday. Enjoy Surf Photos of You.
Shire Rpt
Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Surf Reports.This part of the world seems to better appreciate today’s offerings than yesterday’s. Peaks at Elouera and The Wall are over headhigh, The Point is still around shoulder-high, The Island is a bit crazy, and Shoes is waist-high plus. Pictures tell the story
Bare Bones, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Byron.
Like all old and young salts alike, there’s not much I enjoy more than a stonking great swell sweeping past the cape, in Byron Bay today. However there’s always a touch sadness to the excitement as well. As the swell drives into the bay we can see it lifting copious quantities of sand as it wipes clean all in its way. Now this often does produce some choice new banks, and this swell was no different. Personally I just love going out for a stroll to look for them. But it can also utterly devastate a not yet well impacted bank, tearing away the fragile sand that we’ve all been anxiously waiting for Huey to build up. That is exactly what happened in the last twenty four hours in the bay. One of the favourite sandbanks of the local crew has had large chunks torn out of it, all the way down into the bay. It’s down to the bare bones in some spots, and the question now is, will Huey Give it back or will Huey take it away, In Byron Bay Today?
Hmmm, maybe not quite what we hoped for
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in At large.Late arvo update
Well, did you score anything before the southerly chewed it up?
Yours truly spent a less than satisfying time in the water at Dee Why point this morning. There were sizable sets, but they weren’t easy to get into because the rip was roaring out through the break and the swell was not as clean as it could’ve been. Many attended but only a few found worthwhile waves (and there were some of those). After lunch at Curly (hopeless mess), I went down to Manly to see if the Bower was of interest following the arrival of the south wind. There were dozens and dozens of punters on it, but the swell which peaked around about 0800 was rapidly declining so the sets were further and further apart. Being the Bower, there were some fun looking waves coming through, so I’m sure a couple patient hours out there would’ve rewarded you with something. My last stop was south Manly where I watched a smallish crew chasing occasional sets in the head high range. Again, there were a few fun ones, but you were doing lots of waiting. Seemed to be some bods out up the beach toward North Steyne, but when I rolled by later, it looked like shutdown city.
This evening the swell is still showing at a couple metres on a 10 second period from the SE. But a 15-25kt southerly is whacking anything that’s not really well protected.
The Bureau says it’ll be southerly again tomorrow and they’re still warning of large easterly swell breaking dangerously close in shore for the early. The models reckon it’ll be half the present size and I’d say at the rate it’s dropping, that’s entirely within the realm of the possible.
Have yourself a good one!
Swell is here
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in At large, Dee Why, North Narrabeen.Hello Friends,
At about midnight the swell swung around to the east, built up to a touch over two metres and, as of 0700 was powering along at 14 seconds apart. There’s significantly more energy on tap now and with the changed swell direction, the surf options are also in flux. There were a few people out at Northy for the early, but the while the waves were sizable, the high tide was making some of them look kinda fat. I presume because of the relatively small numbers in the water, that it can’t be too easy to battle your way out the back.
Down towards Gardens it looked like it might possibly be tow-able, but you’d be pretty confident in yourself to try paddling out. No one was in the water and as with elsewhere this morning, the surface conditions are smooth.
Dee Why point was densely populated but after watching for some time, I saw only a couple waves caught. It looks almost as though the rip has pushed right over to the end of the beach and is running out through the break. So the surface is choppier and the waves don’t have the brushed clean quality of other spots.
Wind is supposed to be light until around midday when a southerly is set to develop and get up to 20 kts in the afternoon.
It’s hard to say for certain, but it looks from the latest MHL data that the swell has peaked and will now be gradually declining. Emphasis on the word “gradual” though. I think there’ll be substantial sets all morning and maybe until dark. Tomorrow could be back to the sort of conditions we had yesterday – ie still pretty surfable.
I was out and about shooting yesterday afternoon, so expect a couple fresh galleries to appear later today with my pics from Dee Why and Northy.
Have yourself a good one!
Tides: H @0650, L @1345
Weather Situation from the Australian Bureau of Meterology
A high pressure system near New Zealand is maintaining a ridge to the far north coast of New South Wales. Ex-tropical Cyclone Vania is west of Norfolk Island while Tropical Cyclone Zelia is intensifying over the northern Coral Sea. A southerly change is expected from early Monday associated with a deep low passing south of Tasmania. An onshore airstream is likely to redevelop by the middle of the next week under the impact of a ridge strengthening in the south and a trough lingering over northeastern NSW.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds: Northerly 10 to 15 knots decreasing below 10 knots during the morning then tending northwest to southwesterly up to 15 knots around midday. Winds tending southerly up to 20 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing up to 1.5 metres by early evening. Swell: Easterly 2 to 3 metres. The chance of thunderstorms offshore late this evening.
Forecast for Tuesday
Winds: Southerly 10 to 20 knots tending south to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning then tending east to southeasterly by early evening. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 2 metres.
Forecast for Wednesday
Winds: Easterly 10 to 15 knots. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres.
Shire Rpt
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Surf Reports.Cronulla Point looks like the only surfable option down here today. A reasonably sized crew are getting some headhigh-plus faces, pretty glassy surfaces and fairly unchallenging rides
PICS: Nth Narrabeen Sun 16/1, late arvo
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Don's surfin' pics, North Narrabeen, Top stories.After shooting at Dee Why, I headed up to North Narrabeen to see what the swell was doing. A huge crew was on it and there was a bit of bounce coming off the beach, but there were some solid sets and plenty to take pictures of.
To see all the shots I grabbed between 430 and 530 pm, jump to the gallery. If you caught a wave, I probably caught you on it. And as always, all pics can be purchased simply by clicking on them and looking top left for the buying link. Oh and don’t forget, I’m offering 33% off any pic orders in January. Just enter the code HAPPYSURF when you fill in the order details.
Dee Why: Lotsa swell — not so much in the quality department
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Surf Reports.I waited for 10 min to get anyone riding a wave when I shot these earlier. Loads of swell has arrived overnight but it’s pretty messed up, not the best direction for the Point and there are almost no banks from Dee Why to Long Reef at the moment. About every 10 min there’s a 2X OH set but most of the them are going unridden and closing out about halfway across the channel. Better places today would probably be The Bower (crowded and BIG) Narrabeen, (ditto), Whale Beach, Avalon, Newport; maybe even Queenscliff. Swell interval has peaked at 14-16 sec and headed down along with the tide and the direction is migrating toward SE from E.


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