Archive for January 2011
PICS: Sunday afternoon 16/1 at Dee Why point
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Dee Why, Don's surfin' pics, Top stories.Dee Why was keeping a large crew reasonably entertained late Sunday afternoon.

Ian fans one at the point on a hot Sunday afternoon with a little swell. To see all 119 shots I grabbed between 3 and 4 pm, jump to the gallery. If you caught a wave, I probably caught you on it. And as always, all pics can be purchased simply by clicking on them and looking top left for the buying link. Oh and don’t forget, I’m offering 33% off any pic orders in January. Just enter the code HAPPYSURF when you fill in the order details.
Finally some size….. but
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Long Reef.Finally the swell that is much expected from TC Vania has arrived. I checked Long Reef and its a bit bumpy as is Dee Why Point. But it may settle down this afternoon. Long Reef this morning is about 4 – 5 foot and Dee Why is alittle bigger on the point. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You.
Rogue Wave, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on January 17th, 2011 in Byron.
I don’t usually talk about one particular shot that I took, in Byron Bay today. But then again it’s not every day you get a shot of the Julian Rocks left going nuts in the middle of the ocean, as rogue waves drives past the bay. It’s not even a good shot; it’s miles out of range. But who cares, it’s been twenty years since I last saw that happen on such a massive scale. I was way down in the middle of the bay when I caught sight of the first of the set out the corner of my eye. There were three of them, and they were so massive and thick that the knob of rock that sticks out to the east of Julian Rocks was utterly submerged for several seconds as each wave broke. If you want to know how big that is, let’s put it this way, a dive boat with twelve people on board, looks like a tiny spec against the rocks when shot from that distance. So who’s up for some seriously hollow lefts, In Byron Bay Today?
We’re all waiting for our share Huey
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in Big Picture, Dee Why, Long Reef.Hello Friends,
Sunday morning saw lots of folks paddling around looking for something to catch. For days now we’ve been watching the models and hoping for the swell train to arrive. And it has. Sort of.
Do you like having plenty of time to day dream between sets? Well, you’re going to like this morning’s offerings around the place. It was grey, gloomy and drizzling as things got started today, so my pictures are pretty grainy and uncolourful. I started with a look at Northy, but it was pretty hard to make out much detail from Collaroy Plateau. Seemed to be a long wait between waves being caught and down the beach toward Gardens it was clean but endlessly shutting down. Northy was smooth and I saw a couple shoulder high plus sets.
According to the MHL data for 0900, the primary swell direction is south(!) but from what I saw it was looking E-NE. The average size is around the 1.5 metre mark and period was sitting on 10 seconds, with the odd longer period 12sec rogue.
The unusual swell direction and period combo was providing a few sets for punters at spots you rarely see break. There was a little group chasing waist to chest high sets inside of Makaha. A few were hanging around at Whiterock and some stand up paddleboarders were working the reefs that lie north of Makaha. Again, very long waits were the order of the morning.
Over at Dee Why there were numerous bods at the point and a substantial scattering from kiddies to north of Dee Why centre. As with everywhere else this morning, the wind was not a factor, but wave consistency certainly was. I waited quite awhile to get a snap of someone taking off at the point and in that time I didn’t see a single wave caught by those bobbing around off the beach.
From the latest run of the models, it’s looking as though the swell will bump along at the current level through today and then, peak up a bit for tomorrow morning. After that, it seems we’re in for a return to small conditions by around Wednesday.
Tide was high at 0600 and the low will be along at 1300.
Weather Situation
A high pressure system near New Zealand is maintaining a ridge to the far north coast of New South Wales. Ex-tropical Cyclone Vania is northwest of Norfolk Island while Tropical Cyclone Zelia is intensifying over the northern Coral Sea. A weak southerly change associated with a low in the southern Tasman Sea is over the central coast. A stronger southerly change is expected Sunday night and into Monday associated with another deep low passing south of Tasmania.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds: South to southeasterly 5 to 10 knots tending east to northeasterly around midday. Winds becoming northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Northeasterly 2 metres.
Forecast for Monday
Winds: North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots ahead of a southerly change of 15 to 20 knots around midday. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing up to 1.5 metres by early evening. Swell: Northeasterly 2 to 3 metres.
Forecast for Tuesday
Winds: South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots tending 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 2 metres.
Pics of Northy 3 – 4ft 16 Jan. 2.45-3.45pm
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in Top stories.From Surf Photos of You. We are all awaiting the swell from TC Vania and it hasn’t really eventuated. North Narrabeen was a good 4 foot on the sets with an occasional bigger one coming through now and then. I managed to get a few pics around 3 – 4pm. The wind dropped off and the surfaced cleaned up a bit. I got some nice pics. See more at www.surfphotosofyou.com.au.
Where is it??
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in Long Reef.The predicted swell from TC Vania hasn’t arrived yet and most beaches are around 2 – 4 foot range. Low is at 12.58pm so a wait till mid tide might be a better option. Hopefully there may be an increase in waves size with it. Enjoy Surf Photos of You.
Dee Why: Weekend crowds
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in Surf Reports.You’d have to be pretty keen to be paddling out at Dee Why this morning. Despite infrequent waves and relatively small conditions the Point looks like Malibu Heaven this morning already. Worse yet, there are no banks to speak of on the Dee Why to Longy stretch.
Balmy (Roosevelt & HMB Jetty)
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions. The air was nearing 60 degrees when I arrived at Dunes for one more surf before I step into winter in Moscow. There we already a dozen surfers on the main peak, and I watched as a couple of 7- to 8-foot closeouts swept through the pack. Most made it over to the outside, but one got caught on the lip, his board flying high in the air as the hollow wave exploded in whitewater.Luke joined me on the bluff top, and we decided to try slightly farther north at Roosevelt, where an empty peak looked perhaps a bit smaller and less bruising. As I pulled on my second glove at the the surf line, Luke announced "there's a rip right here," and headed into the water. Following him but too far behind to ask over the noise of the shorebreak, I thought "Where??" Trusting but not seeing any rip, I gamely plunged ahead, only to find myself besieged by a relentless train of breaking waves, too short of period for me to make any forward progress on my 7'0". Finding myself in standing depth again, I pointed toward shore, because I had seen an unmistakeable rip farther north. I walked up the beach to catch it and made a nearly dry-hair paddle-out, then turned south to rejoin Luke, who had attained the outside. Halfway there, I was caught inside of a large set, and turtle-rolling didn't prevent me from being pushed close to shore once again. Sigh. I'll be glad when I've improved my skills down to a duck-diveable board. I got out, walked north and took my rip back to the nearest peak, where I decided to settle in. Sorry, buddy, I thought at distant Luke, but I'm staying here.
After riding a wave in, Luke tried to join me by using the same rip current, but he later told me he didn't luck into my timing and had a hard paddle out there as well, calling it one of the toughest days in recent memory. The waves were mixed up and sloppy, mid- and short-period swells duking it out, a far cry from Tuesday's sweet clean groundswell. I paddled for a few waves on the outside but didn't get into them, then found myself inside yet again as another big closeout set pushed through. I rode a couple somewhat unsatisfying inside reforms before deciding it wasn't worth another paddle out. Back on the beach, I signaled to Luke that I was leaving, then watched him land a wave that was his head-high (he's over 6 feet), ride briefly, and crash as it closed out in a smash of white spray. When he joined me on the beach, I told him this just couldn't be the surfing memory to tide me over through the cold days in Russia, so I was going the Jetty, where at least the washing machine would be set on something closer to the gentle cycle. He seconded my assessment and we tossed (not literally) our boards into the back his truck. I took off one glove to retrieve my car key, quickly covered the seat of my MINI Cooper with a trash bag and a towel, and drove a few miles north in my wet wetsuit.
The Jetty wasn't much better but it was smaller and cleaner, although there was a little crowd sprinkled along the peaks. I didn't have much time left to surf, but made the most of it. I got a nice left, working it through the inside into a reform close to the beach. A few other rides rounded out the session, and in the final minutes, I landed a ~head-high drop that had me whooping into a short ride. Until next time, Mother Ocean.
Going West, In Byron Bay Today’s weekend review.
Posted on January 16th, 2011 in Byron.
Go west young man, go west and make a name for yourself, was the cry many moons ago. These days going west is just so simple, all you got to do is stop paddling and Huey will do the rest. Yes folks the swell is up, and the sweep is on, in Byron Bay today. It very quickly sorts out the real paddlers from punters as it drags people off to the western shore of the bay. But to be serious just for a moment, as tempting as it looks it’s actually a time to be a bit careful. The sweep is no joke, and it can take the unaware to places they may not be experienced enough to handle. So the enjoy the swell, but keep an eye on the landmarks as well so you know when you’re going west, In Byron Bay Today.
Grey morning for Duke’s Day
Posted on January 15th, 2011 in Freshwater.Hello Friends,
I’ve found myself a little corner of the Freshie SLSC to tap out an abbreviated report before I go beach cleaning with the Surfrider crew.
Surf situation is similar to yesterday, only glassier. The swell is 1.5 metres from the east. The period is starting to ramp up though and as I write this is currently showing at about 9 seconds. Quality was not great when I looked around though.
There were a few bods in waiting around at the Bower, but I didn’t see anyone catch anything. The Manly stretch is seeing the swell but like everywhere else after months of mainly small to flat conditions, the shutdown to rideable ratio is off the scale. Expect 10 straighthanders for every makeable section I’d say.
Freshie is very, very busy and from a surf standpoint, not terribly interesting. More shutdownitis. It’s the same story around at Curly where there are plenty of bods chasing some fairly uninspiring lumps.
Outlook is, as the Goat said a day or so ago, for a steady increase in wave energy as a longer period NE swell starts filling in. It’ll hit up north first obviously, but I wouldn’t be surprised if there were a few sets in the mix for us by late this afternoon.
We’re headed for a low tide around midday, so the shutdowns will almost certainly get more nasty. On the other hand, it looks as though the wind will be fading as the day goes along and by tomorrow we could have NW for the first time in awhile. That could work with the swell at some spots…
time to go make myself useful picking up rubbish. Catchya later!
Weather Situation
A high pressure system near New Zealand is maintaining a ridge to the far north coast of New South Wales. Tropical Cyclone Vania is over New Caledonia. During today a deep, slow-moving, complex low pressure system will move south of Tasmania, where it should remain till Monday. An associated weak southerly change will affect the southern half of the coast on Saturday, with a stronger southerly change expected Sunday night and into Monday, as this low moves further east.Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds: Northerly 10 to 20 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots around midday then becoming northeasterly up to 10 knots later in the evening. Seas: Up to 2 metres decreasing to below 1 metre during the afternoon. Swell: Easterly about 2 metres.Forecast for Sunday
Winds: Northwest to southwesterly 5 to 10 knots tending southeast to southwesterly around dawn then tending northeast to southeasterly up to 15 knots around midday. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Northeasterly 2 metres.Forecast for Monday
Winds: Northerly 10 to 15 knots tending northwest to southwesterly up to 10 knots during the morning then tending east to southeasterly up to 15 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Northeasterly 2 metres.




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