Archive for March 2011

On shore blitz.

Posted on March 19th, 2011 in Long Reef.

There is a very strong ESE wind, which is blowing everything out at Longy this morning.  Although there are some surfers on Suck Up which is around 3 – 4 foot but bumpy and sort of out of control.  The swell is from the SE but with the wind and rain it is pretty bleak out in the water.  But what else do you have to do this morning.  Its southern corners, but the swell is not getting into Collaroy which is only about 1 – 2 foot.  Wind is expected to continue this onshore blitz for the next couple of days.  It may be a trek to find waves today.   Swell to get bigger tomorrow.  H. 8.36am, L. 2.58pm  H. 9.08pm    Join me on facebook. Have a great day!  Surf Photos of You.


Shire Rpt

Posted on March 19th, 2011 in Surf Reports.

Bleugh!!! Everything Don just told Simon Mahony applies. Windy rainy choppy messy yucky…


The Goat’s Surf Forecast

Posted on March 18th, 2011 in Goat's Forecast.

Surf forecast issued Friday 18 March 2011: Seven day outlook for Sydney:

Looks like there could be a bit of size tomorrow and the rest of the weekend

Saturday:1-2 range with some bigger sets fiom dead South

Sunday: around 2 metres East South East.

Monday: ditto

Tuesday: ditto – again

Wednesday: 1-2 range east

Thursday: 1-2 range, with some bigger sets East South East.

Friday: smaller but still 1-2 metres East South East.

Water temp’s around 23.

For your convenience here’s the link to Red Crossfor doadonations to help ot those in need form the various natural disasters of recent times in the Pacifuic area

https://www.redcross.org.au/Donations/onlineDonations.asp

Two interesting maps>>>

Japanese tsunami 2011 map

http://www.realsurf.com/2011/03/12/japan-earthquake-and-tsunami/

Chile tsunami 1960 map

http://mapsof.net/chile/static-maps/jpg/tsunami-travel-time-valdivia-1960

..just like ripples spread across a swimming pool.

Weather from the Bureau:

Forecast for the rest of Friday

Summary
Few showers.
Chance of any rain: 40%

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds southerly averaging up to 20 km/h.

Saturday 19 March

Summary
Min 20
Max 24
Few showers.
Chance of any rain: 70%
Rainfall amount: 3 to 9 mm

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging up to 20 km/h tending east to southeasterly around midday.

Dangerous surf conditions, hazardous for coastal activities such as swimming, surfing and rock fishing, are expected.

Fire Danger – Low to Moderate

UV Alert from 9:50 am to 4:10 pm, UV Index predicted to reach 8 [Very High]

Around Sydney
LocationMinMax
Sydney2024
Penrith1825
Liverpool1726
Terrey Hills1823
Richmond1724
Parramatta1725
Campbelltown1626
Bondi2122

Sunday 20 March

Summary
Min 20
Max 26
Few showers.

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending southeasterly and light later in the evening.

Monday 21 March

Summary
Min 20
Max 23
Shower or two clearing later.

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Isolated showers until late afternoon. Winds southerly and light increasing to southerly up to 20 km/h around midday.

Tuesday 22 March

Summary
Min 20
Max 26
Shower or two.

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds southerly and light.

Wednesday 23 March

Summary
Min 19
Max 25
Shower or two.

Metropolitan area

Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds southeasterly averaging up to 20 km/h becoming light during the evening.

Thursday 24 March

Summary
Min 17
Max 25
Morning shower or two.

Metropolitan area

Mostly sunny. Winds west to northwesterly averaging up to 25 km/h.

Friday 25 March

Summary
Min 17
Max 25
Mostly sunny.

Metropolitan area

Partly cloudy. Winds west to northwesterly averaging 10 to 20 km/h.


Pop goes the period

Posted on March 18th, 2011 in Big Picture.

Looks like the forecast is right. We have longer period stuff showing up on the Sydney MHL buoy now. The longest period stuff is rattling along at 14 sec whilst the averaged periods are showing at 8 9 seconds now  (up from 6 this morning). If we follow the pattern set by the Eden buoy, we could see the average period climb to 10 seconds by dark. It’s already at 11 down at Eden. Swell direction is now dead south. Average size at sea is still about 1.5m. At 1430 I had a look at Dee Why and it’s definitely showing more line than this morning, but the wind is making it choppy and I didn’t see anyone in the water. However, it does seem that tomorrow might have something to mess about in (I’m punting on waist with the odd chest plus) – as long as you don’t mind grey skies and light easterlies. Tide’ll be high around 0830 tomorrow, so fatness may be an issue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Shire Rpt

Posted on March 18th, 2011 in Surf Reports.

Micro, grey & choppy


Tiny, grey and southerly for Friday morning

Posted on March 18th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

Not much on offer for Sydney surfers this morning. Low, grey skies and 20-30 kts of SSW wind out at sea do not a pretty picture make. The MHL buoy off Sydney is showing only short period SSW windswell, so I’d be more than a little surprised if there were waves of any quality any where in our region. Dee Why is probably representative of the conditions and as you can see from the picture below it would be struggling to make knee high.

The wind is going to carry on all day and overnight it’s expected to go to the east, so right now Saturday’s looking pretty ordinary too.  The models are showing the average period stretching out to very long intervals between now and tomorrow, but nothing was showing this morning on the MHL buoys.

Speaking of models, the predictions for the coming week have been all over the shop. Some interpretations of the data think next week could see some juicy and sizable conditions, while others project smaller stuff.  Here’s hoping the Goat has time to take a look at things for us later…

Enjoy the day ahead!

Weather Situation

A trough along the central and mid north coasts is expected to move slowly to the east today as a high south of the Bight extends a ridge over the south coast. The high will move slowly east into the Southern Tasman Sea over the next few days as the trough remains slow moving off the north coast.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Winds: South to southwest 15 to 20 knots tending south to southeasterly in the afternoon. Seas: 1 to 1.5 metres. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres. The chance of thunderstorms this morning, mainly offshore.

Forecast for Saturday

Winds: Easterly 10 to 15 knots tending east to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon then becoming southeasterly up to 25 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening. Swell: Southerly 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Sunday

Winds: South to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres. Swell: Easterly about 2 metres.

 

Goat


Slide Show, In Byron Bay Today.

Posted on March 18th, 2011 in Byron.

Slide Show, In Byron Bay Today. Light wind, a bit of sunshine a small but clean swell with good sand. It all adds up to, time to pull out the log and get into the slide show, in Byron Bay today. There were a few little peaks around d the open side for the little white board set, and the logs were all set on cruise control in the bay. Actually felt kind of weird, apart from a five day flat spell not long ago we’ve had so much consistent swell for so long that we haven’t actually seen many of the logger crew out and about for some time. But they all came out of the woodwork for today’s slide show, and I suspect there’s possibly more of the same on the way, In Byron Bay Today.

Also folks, Jamie needs some more feedback for his surf injury survey, click here for more info.

 


Clean but small under cloudy skies

Posted on March 17th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

Just a tiny line showing at Dee Why this morning. Swell direction has moved a touch and is now out of the SSE. It’s around the 1.5 metre mark on average with a period of 7 seconds. Windswell in a word. There were a few bods at Dee Why centre catching little things in the knee to waist high range. Given the period and swell direction, I’d say most places in the Sydney region will be a similar size or smaller.

The light winds of this morning are set to be 15-20 kts s-se by the end of the day. As they push up, the average size of the waves at exposed spots should increase a bit. Unfortunately, I can’t see any reason to think that the protected corners will benefit – the average period is just too short.

Now for the good news.

This morning’s run of the swell prediction models are more hopeful than they’ve been for awhile. The weekend is still showing a long period pulse for Saturday. Be interesting to see what the Goat says, but my guess is that we’ll get waist to chest with the odd bigger one – but many of us probably won’t bother because it looks as though it’ll be grey and south easterly. However, if the models are to be believed, from Saturday onward the swell will be in a steady upward trend to a peak around the middle of the week. If it plays out as at least a couple different interpretations suggest, Wednesday could be pretty interesting (anyone for offshores and double overhead sets?). No guarantees, but might be a plan to pencil it in just in case.

Have yourself a top old day and stay happy!

TIDES: H @0650, L @1330

Weather Situation
A trough is expected to move slowly along the north coast today before reaching the far north coast on Friday. A high south of the Bight will move slowly east over the next few days and should be over the southern Tasman Sea by the weekend.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds: Southeast to southerly 5 to 10 knots increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1.5 metres by early evening. Swell: Easterly 1 metre tending southerly during the evening.

Forecast for Friday
Winds: South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots becoming southeasterly 10 to 15 knots later in the evening. Seas: 1 to 1.5 metres. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Saturday
Winds: South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly 1.5 metres.


Sion Milosky killed at Maverick’s

Posted on March 17th, 2011 in Top stories.

STORY FROM ESPN: In the late afternoon hours on Thursday, tragedy struck as infamous Northern California big-wave spot Maverick’s took the life of 35-year-old Hawaiian surfer Sion Milosky.

Originally from Kalaheo, Kauai, Milosky was an underground charger for most of his career and had a tremendous impact in any heavy lineup he found himself in.

It’s been speculated that he paddled into one of the biggest waves ever, an outer-reef bomb that’s been sized at “30-foot Hawaiian,” which means it was at least 60 feet by normal standards. Earlier this year he caught one of the waves of the winter at Pipeline, and prior to that he signed a healthy endorsement deal with Volcom.

With a late-season northwest swell in the water, on a day that Surfline.com was calling 18 to 20 feet with occasional 25-foot set waves, Milosky had reportedly been charging all day, riding some of the best waves that came through.

Out late trying to get one last set wave, he took off on a bomb and got rolled. He was found in the water 20 minutes later, beyond help at that point.
MORE

Sion Milosky’s Facebook wall


Just One (38th Ave)

Posted on March 17th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions. Even though I'd bagged an amazing parking space in Capitola, right in front of Margaritaville, my buddies wanted to surf at 38th Ave so that's where I went. This afternoon it was not a mushy and mellow longboard break. The waves were bigger than I've ever seen there, overhead on the sets, and I saw one guy get tubed. It was too effing crowded and I was getting frustrated after a while, having caught only a broken wave while watching other surfers take the good ones. I left Darren in the pack and moved inside, where I found Luke on an egg, one of the boards that were just given to him by a couple moving to Utah. It was less crowded on the inside, probably because it was often closing out. I got a few drops but little joy. Then I caught one near head-high right with a fun drop and a shoulder that held up all the way to the beach. Woot! That one was all I needed.
Surfline: Overlapping WNW (275-305) groundswells (new one building in this afternoon) hold up plenty of head high+ surf today with 2-3'+ overhead sets at top exposed spots. Winds remain light out of the West this afternoon with mostly clean conditions. Tide is also dropping out with many breaks looking pretty fun right now. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 13.5 ft at 17.4 s WNW / WIND WAVE: 2.6 ft at 4.2 s WNW 23 / WVHT: 13.5 ft / APD: 10.8 s / MWD: 290° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 13.5 ft / DPD: 17.0 s / WDIR: 330° / ATMP: 52.9° F / WTMP: 52.9° F. Tide: 1' rising to 2.5'
 
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