Archive for March 2011

PICS: ya really missed it (or maybe you didn’t!)

Posted on March 14th, 2011 in Curl Curl, Don's surfin' pics.

Was out and about with my camera on Monday morning the 14th of March and stopped by Curly to see what the little east windswell was doing. I got there about 0915 and was bummed to discover I shoulda thrown the board in the car. It was mostly around the waist high mark, but there were definitely a few bigger than that. Anyway, I stuck around and shot pictures until the southerly came in a little before 1000 and obliterated the place.

In the end I came back with over a hundred shots. To see ‘em all, just click on the picture below. As usual, all shots are available in a variety of sizes at extremely reasonable prices. Once you get there, just click on an image and then look top left for the buying options link.


Click the pic above to visit


Southerly is here.

Posted on March 14th, 2011 in Long Reef.

The southerly arrived right on 10am.  So if you didn’t get an early in before 10 its the southern ends only now.  Long Reef was nice but the E swell is (was) only 1- 2 foot. Read Don’s report on whats expected on Saturday.  Enjoy.  Surf Photos of You.


Surf situation dire

Posted on March 13th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

That big old high over the Tasman just doesn’t want to go anywhere and it’s not helping the surf situation at all. While the size of the NE swell at sea is still around the 1.5 metre mark, the average period is a weak 7 seconds. Admittedly Dee Why isn’t the ideal indicator for NE windswell, so there may be slightly more energy at NE magnets, but I reckon it’ll be struggling to make waist high for the most part. Certainly there wasn’t anything above that level when I checked at about 0900. Huey’s expected to dial the wind up to 15-20 kts later this afternoon, so that might bump the energy levels up a touch.

A S-SW change is expected tomorrow and as a consequence we may see a small improvement to the surf prospects. But I’m not seeing anything dramatic on this run of the models for tomorrow. They are showing a big system forming in the southern ocean in about five days. The forecasts show the main energy staying largely clear of the east coast, but by the weekend the situation could possibly change and we might have some smallish but long period swell pushing in by Sunday.

Have a good one!

 

 

TIDES: L @0930, H @1520

Weather Situation

A semi-stationary high pressure system over the Tasman Sea extends a ridge to the New South Wales far north coast. A cold front will bring a southerly change to the south and central coasts during Monday.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight

Winds: Northerly 10 to 20 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning then increasing to 15 to 20 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing up to 1.5 metres during the morning. Swell: Easterly 1 metre. Isolated thunderstorms this afternoon and evening.

Forecast for Monday

Winds: Northerly 10 to 20 knots tending north to northwesterly up to 10 knots around dawn then tending northwest to southwesterly up to 20 knots during the morning. Winds tending south to southwesterly up to 25 knots around midday. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Tuesday

Winds: South to southeasterly 10 to 20 knots becoming southerly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon then decreasing to 10 knots during the evening. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 1 metre. Isolated thunderstorms offshore from the morning.

 

 


Shire Rpt

Posted on March 13th, 2011 in Surf Reports.

Still pretty flat


Small for the surfers too.

Posted on March 13th, 2011 in Long Reef.

This morning is similar to yesterday and the day before that.  Small down Long Reef with a 1 – 2 foot east swell.  The N wind is gusting up to 12 knots.  Conditions are fairly smooth but the crowd is on it.  Another longboard day.  Will fill quickly towards the high.  Not much predicted in the next couple of days for any reasonable surf.  Enjoy the sunshine and pleasant temps.  Surf Photos of You


After the Tsunami (HMB Jetty)

Posted on March 13th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions.
Photo of tsunami suckout at Miramontes Point, Half Moon Bay, by Luke Kilpatrick
I woke yesterday to news of a huge earthquake in Japan, and a tsunami warning for the NorCal coast. Low-lying areas, including Linda Mar and El Granada near the Jetty, were evacuated. The first surge hit just after 8 am, fortunately at a fairly low tide. I was at work 20 miles inland but hungrily followed the tweets of my surfing buddies who stood watch in Half Moon Bay (Luke took this video) and Santa Cruz (Darren snapped the photo at left). The tsunami from the Chile earthquake last year was barely noticeable, but this one was dramatic. The sea was sucked out below the level of the lowest low tide, exposing portions of the bottom we never see. Then within a few minutes, the water filled back in to a mid-tide level. This cycle repeated through the morning. Santa Cruz Harbor was hard hit, with boats breaking free and smashing into docks and other boats, pushed by the strong currents of rising and falling water. Pillar Point Harbor fared well, but these time lapse photos show the significant sea level change. I had an early work meeting so wasn't planning to surf anyway, but many of the local beaches were closed, although some surfers snuck out nevertheless (where there's a wave, there's a way).

Today the tsunami warning was dropped to an advisory, and I was able to get in one last dawn patrol before the government messes with our minds by setting the time ahead an hour. I love to surf at first light. I love the stillness of the world on the cusp of waking, the solitude, the serenity. I'll miss it until sunrise catches up with the clock again. With a sizable swell in the water, the Jetty was the best choice, and I was the first surfer into the water. The paddle was tough, and by the time I made it almost outside, a shortboarder was already riding. I was nearly to the lineup when a wave started to break in front of me. I thought I could make it over the top but instead my board caught it and I was made to ride backwards all the way inside to waist-deep water. Crap! After a total of about 15 minutes of slogging, I got outside and took a breather. The waves were shifty and mixed up, waist- to head-high. I rode a few nice rights, including one with a long shoulder, and a few good lefts too, with some fun drops. Darren filmed me on a gutless little wave (had to pump it):
Then he joined me in the water as the crowd grew, and we saw Luke taking photos from the rocks. I couldn't catch a wave for the camera to save my life, except this:
Too soon it was time for one more because I had to go, but I blew the drop and got pushed far inside again. That just couldn't be my last wave, so I headed back out. It was another 10 minutes of hard paddling, turtling and shoving through, during which I got pushed uncomfortably close the the riprap jetty, but I made it back out to where Luke had joined Darren. I had to wait for it, but my ride home came through, a left with a fun head-high drop and a little shoulder to play on. Woot!
Surfline: We've got a good sized mix of surf on tap this morning as WNW (270-305) groundswell slowly backs down, mixing with modest South (170-190) swell. Good exposures are in the head high to overhead+ range, with top spots running well overhead with a few lingering sets pushing double overhead. Winds are light/variable for fairly smooth surface conditions, although a lot of spots are still seeing some lump/jumble. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 9.2 ft at 13.8 s WNW 22 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 3.7 s WNW / WVHT: 9.2 ft / APD: 9.4 s / MWD: 282 (Met) WSPD: 0 kts / GST: 4 kts / WVHT: 9.2 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / ATMP: 51.4° F / WTMP: 52.9° F. Tide: 3' falling to 1'.

Sendai Tsunami, In Byron Bay Today’s weekend review.

Posted on March 13th, 2011 in Byron.

Sendai Tsunami, In Byron Bay Today’s weekend review. What’s the Sendai Tsunami got to do with us here, in Byron Bay today? Well for you, our readers, maybe something, maybe very little, we don’t know. For us however, Sendai is where Yoko hails from before she moved to Byron Bay many moons ago. To those who have sent their best wishes and prayers for Yoko’s family and friends thank you all for your kindness. At this stage we have no new news, we simply do not know, all her family and friends are thus far unaccounted for. However communications are sketchy at best so we live in hope. Except for some surf buddies that lived on the beach, they had little chance if they were home. As for us, needless to say, we are both a tad traumatised. We will continue to work as best we can for now, best to keep our minds occupied, but we ask your patience. We may miss an update or two while we learn more and deal with this situation in our family as it unfolds. Loving respect to the lot of you, and remember never hesitate to let a mate know you love them, In Byron Bay Today.

Also folks, Jamie needs some more feedback for his surf injury survey, click here for more info.

 


Gee thanks stationary high

Posted on March 12th, 2011 in Big Picture.

Hello Friends,

Grey skies yet again, but it was glassy along the northern beaches and a small NE windswell was producing the odd waist high set at the exposed spots. The buoy data shows that the average size at sea is around the 1.5 metre mark and the period is at about 8 seconds. The wind wasn’t a factor for the early risers, but it is set to bump up into the 10-15 kt range by this afternoon.

Given the swell direction, there should be at least a little something around the place through the day. As that wind gets going, the clean options will move up toward the north ends. And who knows, maybe the extra energy will make the average sets a bit bigger too.

Tomorrow the wind is going to be around to the north in the morning and then back to the NE later in the day. The swell should stagger along at levels similar to today’s.

In fact, looking at the week ahead, this morning’s run of the forecast models isn’t deviating too significantly from The Goat’s forecast – ie, marginal but not utterly flat.

Have yourself a great Saturday!

TIDES: L @0820, H @1410

Weather Situation

A semi-stationary high pressure system near New Zealand extends a ridge to New South Wales far north coast. A cold front is expected to bring southerly change to the south and central coasts on Monday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Inshore:

Winds: Southeast to southwesterly 5 to 10 knots tending east to northeasterly up to 10 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Northeasterly about 1.5 metres. The chance of thunderstorms in the late afternoon.

Offshore:

Winds: Northeast to northwesterly 5 to 15 knots becoming northwesterly up to 10 knots around midday then tending northeasterly 10 to 20 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Northeasterly about 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Sunday

Winds: Northerly 10 to 15 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots around dawn. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 1 metre.

Forecast for Monday

Winds: Northerly 10 to 20 knots decreasing to 15 knots during the morning then tending south to southwesterly up to 25 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending south to southeasterly up to 25 knots during the evening. Seas: Up to 2 metres. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres. The chance of thunderstorms from the morning.

 


Filling Fast

Posted on March 12th, 2011 in Long Reef.

Very nice and calm conditions down at Long Reef early.  Light winds but again a very small, although bigger than yesterday, surf.  Knee to waist but filling fast with the 2pm high.  Enjoy. Surf Photos of You.


Japan earthquake and Tsunami

Posted on March 12th, 2011 in Top stories.

Here are a few links and videos from the earthquake and Tsunami. More later.

Links:

NOAA Tsunami event page

Wikipedia page for Sendai quake (already!)

YouTube Preview Image

9MSN: A tsunami warning was issued to a number of Pacific, southeast Asian and Latin American nations, including Indonesia, the Philippines, the US state of Hawaii, Russia and Chile, after yesterday’s devastating earthquake in Japan. READ STORY HERE

Why you can’t surf a tsunami

You can’t surf a tsunami because it doesn’t have a face. Many people have the misconception that a tsunami wave will resemble the 25-foot waves at Jaws, Waimea or Maverick’s, but this is incorrect: those waves look nothing like a tsunami. On the contrary, a tsunami wave approaching land is more like a wall of whitewater. It doesn’t stack up cleanly into a breaking wave; only a portion of the wave is able to stack up tall. Since the wave is 100 miles long and the tail end of the wave is still traveling at 500 mph, the shore end of the wave becomes extremely thick, and is forced to run far inland, over streets and trees and houses.
READ THE REST OF THIS ARTICLE

 


 
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