Swell seems to have peaked yesterday around midnight. From the MHL buoy data it looks to have hit 4 metres at 13 seconds too. It was still out of the east this morning with an average height of closer to the two metre mark but with a still juicy 12 second average period. Tide’s high a little after 0800, so my guess is that later will be better most places that are taking the swell. There’s a 60 percent chance of rain today in Sydney and tomorrow the call is for even more of the wet stuff. Wind should be SW early and build to 15-25 kts by lunch. The Bureau says the swell will fade, but it ain’t going flat.
From the look of the Bureau’s forecasts and the swell models, the energy levels will drop off a bit mid-week then pulse up again around Thursday as a south change rattles through the joint. Looks as though the on again off again shower pattern will carry on for at least the next week.
Your correspondent is hoping there’ll be something worth the effort this weekend because chances of another surf here in the Santa Barbara area don’t look too flash. It’s utterly micro today under clear blue skies along the coast of California…
Have yourself a top day!
A deep low pressure system near New Zealand is slowly moving southeast and weakening and a high pressure
system is moving south of the Bight. The high will move very slowly east over the next few days. A fresh to strong southerly change is expected along the coast during Thursday as another low develops over the southern Tasman Sea.
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds: Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending south to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots around midday. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres around midday then increasing to 2 metres by early evening. Swell: Easterly 3 metres decreasing to 2 metres this afternoon and evening. Isolated thunderstorms. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Forecast for Wednesday
Winds: Southerly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to 10 to 15 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 2 metres decreasing to below 1 metre later in the evening. Swell: Southeasterly about 2 metres. The chance of thunderstorms.
Forecast for Thursday
Winds: Southerly 15 to 20 knots. Seas: 1 to 2 metres. Swell: Southeasterly 1.0 to 2 metres tending southerly 2 to 3 metres during the evening.