Short and Cold (HMB Jetty)

Posted by: on May 11th, 2011

The surf wasn’t half bad for a dawn desperation session following Sunday’s skunking, although I think I ended up doing more rolling than riding. I made a near head-high drop on one wave but tripped over the nose at the bottom. The ride down was fun but the crash-landing stung a bit. Luke joined me for about 20 minutes along with a curious seal and a pelican, then I surfed alone, getting more rides as I dialed in to the conditions, until another guy paddled out farther down the beach.

With the air only 45 degrees and the ocean maybe 50, I was driven from the water in an hour, shivering uncontrollably and with numb lower arms and legs. Maybe Mark Twain was talking about surfing NorCal when he said the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco. (I know, it’s still spring, but brrr!)

Surfline: Mostly easing NW windswell combines with some small SSW groundswell. Surf is in the waist-chest zone at good spots with standout windswell exposed breaks up to shoulder high+ early in the day. Winds are lightest early but with some surface lump and bump likely. Surf is on the mixed up/disorganized side overall. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.6 ft at 10.0 s NW 37 / WIND WAVE: 5.9 ft at 7.1 s NW / WVHT: 8.9 ft / APD: 6.7 s / MWD: 318° (Met) WSPD: 16 kts / GST: 19 kts / WVHT: 8.9 ft / DPD: 10.0 s / WDIR: 310° / ATMP: 50.5° F / WTMP: 51.1° F. Tide: 3.5′ falling to 2.5′.

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