Archive for May 2011
First In (HMB Jetty)
Posted on May 28th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions. Another weekday session was called for ahead of this weekend's forecast strong winds. I was the first to paddle out this morning, just before 6 am, but was immediately joined by taciturn Dan. With a mix of swells in the water, the surf was confused, with sectiony waves doubling- and tripling-up, and the larger ones closing out. It took patience to locate a distinct solo wave with a shoulder. I found a few, briefly, with fun head-high drops and a bottom turn before the whitewater exploded. I had an equal number of wipeouts, including one which sent me flying fast head-first into the water, bending my neck painfully on impact. That's going to be sore later. Blowing the drop on another wave, I thought I'd surfaced after a mighty tumble and opened my mouth for a gasp of air, only to find it filled with frothy water since I'd come up in foam instead. I've heard one of the reasons some big wave surfers have drowned is that the foam from giant waves can be feet thick, and they can't get above it to breathe. Now I understand.A few other surfers showed up, including friendly Vanessa, who I'd met there last time. From the inside, I almost got a video of her making a nice drop and bottom turn, but I tripped backward over a unseen rock in the shallows as I aimed the camera. D'oh! After a bunch of rides early on, I wasn't having much luck for a while and started to paddle closer to the beach exit. Finally I found a chest-high right with a longer shoulder that took me most of the way in, and then caught the next whitewater on my belly to the beach.
| Morning glass |
Back at my car, an older guy parked next to me asked if I'd had fun out there, to which I answered an enthusiastic "yes!" Charlie, who turned out to be a sponger, said he and his buddies have been meeting in Half Moon Bay to ride waves every Friday for 20 years. What a neat idea.
Surfline: Mid period NW swell eases through the day as a new SW (200-225) groundswell builds in through the day. Surf for most breaks is in the chest-shoulder-head high+ range, with standout NW exposures running a few feet overhead. Winds are light/variable with fairly clean conditions on offer across the region this morning as the tide builds to a 3'+ high by 8:30am. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 12.1 s WNW 42 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 4.0 s WSW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 8.3 s / MWD: 301° (Met) WSPD: 4 kts / GST: 6 kts / WVHT: 6.2 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / WDIR: 210° / ATMP: 53.4° F / WTMP: 52.9° F. Tide: 2.5' rising to 3'.
Dropped but much cleaner
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Dee Why.


Hello Friends,
Another cold morning, but at least it’s sunny and not as windy. Swell at Dee Why point is around the chest high mark on sets (a bit bigger on the rare bombs), but the beach is more consistent and sets are into the head high range.
We have another southerly coming through tonight, so the plan is to hit it earlier rather than later. Swell is set to drop off as the day goes along too, so there’s another incentive to get on your bike.
My quick read of the forecast models for this morning is that we can look forward to small south swell conditions tomorrow and maybe a little more quality Sunday am as the period improves.
Gotta run, have a busy day, but will try to report back later if I can. Have yourself a good one!
TIDES: L @1000 H @1650
Weather Situation
A cold front will affect the south coast Friday then a high south of the Bight will move eastwards with the southwest to southerly airstream over NSW becoming light. Over the weekend the high should be centred near Bass Strait with winds tending southeasterly over the state. A trough of low pressure is expected to develop off the coast on Sunday and deepen into a low off the north coast during Monday and Tuesday.Forecast for Friday until midnight
Winds: West to southwesterly 10 to 20 knots tending south to southwesterly at 10 to 15 knots in the afternoon. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres.Forecast for Saturday
Winds: Southerly 10 to 15 knots tending south to southeasterly up to 10 knots around midday. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly 1 to 2 metres. The chance of thunderstorms offshore from midday. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.Forecast for Sunday
Winds: South to southeasterly 5 to 15 knots decreasing to 10 knots during the morning. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Southerly about 2 metres. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
T
The Goat’s Surf Forecast
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Goat's Forecast.Surf forecast issued Friday 27 May 2011: seven day outlook for Sydney:
Looks like a few chilly days, with a windchill factor, but waves all week for the really keen.Let’s not finesse, waste our time, etc etc… it’ll be round about, up or dwon slightly…
Saturday : in the 1-2 metre range at places that take dead South swell.
Sunday to Tuesday: in the 1-2 metre range East South East.
Wednesday to Friday: in the 1-2 metre range East swinging thru East North East
Water temp’s around 20.
Disclaimer
Neither the Goat nor Realsurf accept any responsibility or liability
for use of the forecasts and any action taken based on the surf forecasts. We are talking about Mother Nature and who can tell her what to do…
~~<The Goat’s Surf Forecast – Since 1996 – Australia’s first and longest running surf forecast on the net>~~
Weather from the Bureau:
Forecast for the rest of Friday
- Summary

- Mostly clear.
- Chance of any rain: 10%

Metropolitan area
Mostly clear. Winds southwesterly and light.
Saturday 28 May
- Summary

- Min 10
- Max 18
- Shower or two.
- Chance of any rain: 60%

- Rainfall amount: 1 to 4 mm
Metropolitan area
Mostly cloudy. Areas of morning fog inland. Isolated showers, more likely near the coast. Winds west to southwesterly averaging up to 20 km/h tending southerly around midday.
Dangerous surf conditions, hazardous for coastal activities such as swimming, surfing and rock fishing, are expected.
No UV Alert, UV Index predicted to reach 2 [Low]
| Location | Min | Max |
|---|---|---|
| Sydney | 10 | 18 |
| Penrith | 6 | 19 |
| Liverpool | 5 | 19 |
| Terrey Hills | 8 | 17 |
| Richmond | 3 | 18 |
| Parramatta | 6 | 18 |
| Campbelltown | 5 | 19 |
| Bondi | 12 | 18 |
Sunday 29 May
- Summary

- Min 12
- Max 18
- A few showers.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Areas of fog early in the morning inland. Scattered showers. Winds southwesterly and light.
Dangerous surf conditions, hazardous for coastal activities such as swimming, surfing and rock fishing, are expected.
Monday 30 May
- Summary

- Min 12
- Max 19
- Showers.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds south to southwesterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending southerly and light later in the evening.
Tuesday 31 May
- Summary

- Min 14
- Max 20
- Showers.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending east to southeasterly during the afternoon.
Wednesday 1 June
- Summary

- Min 15
- Max 20
- Shower or two.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging 10 to 20 km/h.
Thursday 2 June
- Summary

- Min 14
- Max 20
- Shower or two.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging 10 to 20 km/h.
Friday 3 June
- Summary

- Min 13
- Max 20
- Shower or two.
Metropolitan area
Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds south to southwesterly averaging up to 20 km/h.
Still waves around.
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Longy.I checked out Long Reef early and it was still 3 – 4 foot foot but the SW wind was just making them little hard to get onto and bumpy. Then I went to Dee Why up towards the Poles and shot a few nice left handers being held up the the wind and a few barrels were taken. Great conditions for southern ends. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You.
Shire Rpt
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Surf Reports.All lined up nicely along the Bate Bay stretch, yet there’s a persistent lack of quality banks. The conditions, whilst chilly, have the goods, but the crew are finding themselves faced with 3 second rides unless you manage to pick the lucky long one
Some fast walls if you wait
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Manly.Swell has eased back to about shoulder high at Manly and smaller at the south end. A bit of waiting and they are a bit fast and straight on the banks right now. Maybe the 10am low tide might change things. Photos make them look better than they are.
Swell from the SE so other spots could be bigger and better today. The wind is a friendly and cold Westerly right now so everywhere should have perfect conditions. Hope you find something.
Surfboards Direct
Fish Coffee, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on May 27th, 2011 in Byron.
What’s this, a new salty dog inspired flavour of our much loved caffeine rich beverage perhaps? No not really, something even better. Today Andrew Wells from Grown Surfboards delivered the beautiful handmade wooden Flow Fish to Andy at The Top Shop. This stunner of a board will be on display up at The Top Shop from now until the draw is held there on June the 12th. So now’s your chance to go and take a good look at this joyous prize, drink some of Byron Bay’s best coffee, and dream a little about winning the Grown Surfboards Fish. As for the waves today, well we finally felt that gale force wind. It blew a good 35-40kts most of the day. There was brief reprieve right before sunset though which was when most ventured out for a few quick slides, In Byron Bay Today.
Still grey but not as windy and there are waves
Posted on May 26th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Cold and grey this morning along the beaches. But early on the wind was out of the SSW at 15-20kts and it was pretty clean as a consequence at Dee Why. Sets were into the shoulder to head high range too. The MHL buoy went offline yesterday shortly after the swell peaked, so I don’t have objective numbers, but based on observation and the other buoy data, I’d say the average swell height is somewhere between 2 and 3 metres at sea with an average period of around 8-9 seconds from the south.
I’ll try to add a few remarks on the outlook later today… go well.
Weather Situation
A complex low over the Tasman Sea is expected to continue moving towards New Zealand with winds gradually easing along New South wales coast. A high south of the Bight will move very slowly eastwards over the next few days with a moderating southwest to southerly airstream over NSW. Over the weekend the high should be centred near Bass Strait with winds tending southeasterly over the state. A trough of low pressure is expected to develop off the coast on Sunday.Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds: Southerly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 20 to 25 knots around midday then tending south to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 3 metres decreasing to 1.5 metres later in the evening. Swell: Southerly 2 metres.Forecast for Friday
Winds: South to southwesterly 10 to 20 knots decreasing to 10 to 15 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres. Swell: Southerly about 2 metres decreasing to 1 metre during the evening.Forecast for Saturday
Winds: South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending southeasterly during the evening. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning. Swell: Southerly about 1.5 metres.
Dee Why: A few sizeable sets, but lots of closeouts.
Posted on May 26th, 2011 in Surf Reports.Clean conditions with a light WSW wind this morning, but most of the decent sized sets are closing out. The odd one does make it through now and again. Jackhammering continues along The Strand making for a not terrible pleasant environment for thinking or working today.
Good Thursday
Posted on May 26th, 2011 in Manly.Looking good this morning. Just overhead sets, clean and offshore. You just gotta handle getting changed in the freezing cold wind and rain and get in the water to get warm.


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