Archive for June 2011
Yeah, it’s ordinary at the beach
Posted on June 14th, 2011 in Dee Why.Hello Friends,
We have almost three metres of SE windswell pushing into the Sydney region’s beaches this morning. But 20-30kts of SSE wind has reduced surfing options to a minimum. There was actually a person in the water when I grabbed the morning Dee Why situation snap, but while I admired the pluck, I wasn’t in the least envious. It really looks just junky and horrible and the water is not exactly clear and sparkling either.
The SE wind is set to continue until the end of the week. Which is kinda sad given the forecast rise in easterly swell for tomorrow through Thursday. The models are calling for 4-5 metres of swell at the peak, but the Bureau is saying it’ll be 3 to 4 metres. Either way, that’s big enough to be interesting under the right circumstances.
My hope is that when the wind comes back around to a more favourable direction by Friday, that we’ll still have something left in the tank. Some of the models are saying it could still be in the two metre range from the east…
Have yourself a safe and happy Tuesday!
Weather Situation
A low pressure system just off the NSW far north coast, is expected to deepen and move slowly to the south over the next couple of days. A strong high pressure system west of Tasmania is moving slowly east extending a ridge across the southern Tasman Sea. The low is expected to move away to the east on Thursday.
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds
Southeasterly 25 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly about 2 metres.
Wednesday 15 June
Winds
East to southeasterly 30 to 35 knots.
Seas
3 metres increasing to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
Easterly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Thursday 16 June
Winds
Southeasterly 25 to 35 knots decreasing to 15 knots during the afternoon then tending southwesterly up to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
Up to 4 metres decreasing below 2 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southeasterly 3 metres tending easterly 3 to 4 metres from the morning.

Dee Why: Seriously ugly
Posted on June 14th, 2011 in Surf Reports.Onshore, small, wet. It’s just ugly. Horribly ugly.

Junk
Posted on June 14th, 2011 in Manly.Horrible 3ft plus onshore junk today. Looking that way for a few days so don’t plan too much surfing
Surfboards Direct
Messy Monday
Posted on June 13th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Not the most prepossessing of mornings as Monday started. Wind was out of the south at around 20 kts and swell was 3 metres on average but the combination of a 7 second average period and the southerly swell direction are not doing us any favours. Dee Why was messy although not small. If the wind were more favourable, you’d be looking at the odd shoulder to head high set. But as long as the wind continues, we’re out of luck.
The outlook is for the SE wind to keep working us over for another three or four days.
Latest reckonings of the wave models for our region are a bit all over the shop but there’s some consensus around Friday being both big and offshore – if the expected East Coast low forms up around midweek.
Have yourself a great Monday.
Weather Situation
A strong high pressure system west of Tasmania is moving slowly east extending a ridge across the southern Tasman Sea and a low pressure trough is deepening off New South Wales central and north coasts. Late tonight or early Tuesday a low is expected to develop off the north coast and then to move south to southeast during Wednesday and Thursday.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
Southeasterly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 20 to 25 knots during the afternoon then increasing to 20 to 30 knots by early evening.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly about 1 metre.
Tuesday 14 June
Winds
Southeasterly 25 to 30 knots increasing to 30 to 35 knots by afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres increasing to 3 to 4 metres around midday.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre.
Wednesday 15 June
Winds
East to southeasterly 25 to 35 knots, reaching 40 knots at times, although southeasterly 25 to 30 knots inshore during the morning.
Seas
3 metres increasing to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southeasterly about 1.5 metres.
Morning with Magic (HMB Jetty)
Posted on June 13th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions. Yesterday I dropped off my 7'0" Emm with shaper Ward Coffey to have a few minor dings repaired. This morning I brought my longboard and low expectations to the coast, and found some clean fun little waves at the Jetty. The lulls were long and it took me several waves to shift gears from last session's 5'8" Rocky to the 8'0" Magic (I didn't find any pearls, but I sure was looking for a little while).I had to cut this video short to get out of the rider's way, but he didn't show me much consideration. Twice he paddled over quickly to where I was sitting in perfect position for a wave, then took it for himself. By the third time I'd had enough and caught the wave, my wave, forcing the snake to back off. Rude, dude, plenty of waves for everyone, no need to steal!
After I got the hang of the longboard again (I do envy surfers who can easily switch between boards), I had several nice shoulder rides and some fun drops on closeouts. But I miss Emm. Fortunately Ward says he'll have her good as new in a few days, in time for a Sunday surf in Santa Cruz with my bestest old surf buddy visiting from SoCal.
Surfline: Much lighter wind today (especially up around the Bay Area), with a small mix of NW windswell and SSW (195-205+) Southern Hemi swell. Most breaks were in the waist high and below range, while top SSW and windswell spots were a little better. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 2.3 ft at 14.8 s SSW 46 / WIND WAVE: 3.3 ft at 5.6 s WNW / WVHT: 4.3 ft / APD: 4.7 s / MWD: 289° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 4.3 ft / DPD: 6.0 s / WDIR: 310° / ATMP: 52.5° F / WTMP: 53.2° F. Tide: 3' rising to almost 4'.
Less Crap
Posted on June 13th, 2011 in Manly.Conditions are currently better now than yesterday but still crappy and fat. 3ft waves have enough East to be spread along the Manly stretch and its cleanish at the south end. Better just to get down and watch all the Finals today for the Snowy McAlister Winter Festival. Great chance to see how you should be riding a longboard with a bit of style.
A Fun Afternoon, In Byron Bay Today’s Weekend Review.
Posted on June 13th, 2011 in Byron.
As Andy up at The Top shop put it, ‘we couldn’t have written a better script if we tried’, in Byron Bay today. What he was alluding to was the fact that Elaine (Larny) Reid was the winner of the Grown Surfboards Flow Fish. Thanks for the beautiful board Andrew. The much loved Larny is one of a small group of very well respected pioneer women surfers in Byron Bay. There’s a photo of her husband Algae immortalised on the tourist information board at The Pass leading up to the lighthouse, and their family has three generations of surfers. To top it off Larny has had a pretty rough past twelve months, so the win was a bit of a nice turn around for the Reid’s. Also Pete Chaseling scores the E-bomb wetsuit voucher from RipCurl courtesy of Silas McKay and Rory Carolan walked away with a three month gym membership, thanks to Byron Gym. To everyone who turned up at The Top Shop despite the cold wet weather, thank you, you guys make it all worthwhile. To Andy and the crew up at The Top Shop, thanks for your hospitality guys, it was a fun afternoon, In Byron Bay Today.
Junky, overcast and rainy
Posted on June 12th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
15-20 kts of southerly is working over a weakening 2 metre south swell. Average period is around the 8 second mark, so it’s pretty much windswell. Dee Why is probably typical of elsewhere around the Sydney region – ie beat up, messy junk. Looks like a good day to catch up on your life outside surfing.
Sadly this morning’s run of the forecast models continues to call for another few days of onshore and junky conditions. Indeed, tomorrow the southerly is supposed to go around to the south east and to stay that way through Tuesday. At the same time, a fresh East Coast Low is expected to spin up off the north coast and the current reckoning is that it will track south and quite possibly it will push up the swell rather dramatically. Some interpretations of the data show the expected pulse to get close to the 6 metre (!!) mark briefly late Wednesday-early Thursday. The wind’s supposed to be out of the SE and it will probably be raining though. However, as the swell fades away on Thursday and into Friday, the wind should be around to the SW and then west so… could be fun if we’re lucky.
Have yourself a great Sunday!
Weather Situation
A strong high pressure system west of Tasmania is moving very slowly east extending a ridge across the southern Tasman Sea. A low pressure trough is developing along the NSW coast. The trough will deepen during Monday and a low will develop within the trough along the northern half of the coast Tuesday/Wednesday. This will increase winds along the coast southwards of the low. Strong to gale force winds are likely. The low is expected to move further south and then southeast on Thursday and Friday.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Southerly 20 to 25 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly about 1 metre.
Monday 13 June
Winds
Southeasterly about 20 knots.
Seas
2 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Tuesday 14 June
Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 20 knots increasing to 20 to 25 knots during the afternoon then increasing to 25 to 30 knots during the evening.
Seas
2 metres increasing to 3 metres during the afternoon then increasing to 4 metres during the evening.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre.
Gloomy morning but clean ones to be had in the corners
Posted on June 11th, 2011 in Big Picture, Dee Why, South Narrabeen.
Hello Friends,
Swell is out of the south at an average height of 4 metres (+ seas to 6m). Period is averaging 9 seconds but there is some 11 sec component in the mix too. Wind was SSW at 12-15kts. Both the wind and swell are set to decrease during the day, with the Bureau calling for the latter to be down to about 2m by dark. There’s a 60% chance of a shower and it’ll be cloudy all day.
Despite the numbers, the average set wave face I saw at Dee Why when I checked at around 0720 was in the shoulder to head high range. I’d be very surprised if there weren’t some bigger ones every now and then though. Relatively clean in the protected corners too. Had a look at the Collaroy to Narra stretch and spotted some attractive little walls near Marquesas but while I watched they all shut down unmakeably. Great patience required I’d say.
Outlook for the coming week is not too encouraging from this run of the wave forecast models. Basically we’re looking at onshores and grey skies with a steady supply of shortish period windswell. There is the prospect of an intense east coast low spinning up off the north coast and by mid-week some of the models reckon we could be looking at a peak of up to 5 metres of east swell. ECL’s aren’t all that predictable, so there’s probably an even money chance of it not getting to anything like that big. If it does though, the models show it being essentially unsurfable due to howling onshores – although you might get a wave at one of the inner harbour spots I suppose…
Go well with your Saturday!
Tides: L @0945, H @1620, Water @ 19C
Weather Situation
A low over the central Tasman Sea is moving eastwards. During today winds along the coast will generally ease, although another stronger surge is expected over the southern half of the coast in the afternoon. An onshore airstream will develop during Sunday as a ridge builds to the south.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
- Winds
- Southerly 25 to 30 knots decreasing to 20 to 25 knots around midday then decreasing to 15 to 20 knots later in the evening.
- Seas
- Up to 4 metres decreasing to 2 metres during the afternoon.
- Swell
- Easterly about 1 metre.
Sunday 12 June
- Winds
- South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots tending east to southeasterly later in the evening.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres.
- Swell
- Southeasterly 0.5 metres tending southerly late in the evening.
Monday 13 June
- Winds
East to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots becoming southeasterly 20 to 25 knots during the evening.
- Seas
1 to 1.5 metres increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
- Swell
Southeasterly about 1 metre.
PICS by Don: South Narrabeen, Saturday am 11/6/11
Posted on June 11th, 2011 in Don's surfin' pics, South Narrabeen, Top stories.When the overcast skies lightened for a time this morning I decided to check out the wave situation at South Narrabeen. Good job I took the camera because I wouldn’t have had the saintly patience of the hardy crew who were out among the shutdowns. I set up near Marquesas, determined to shoot until the cloud came back or it blew out. There were some solid sets courtesy of the 3 metre south swell raking up the coast this morning. And every now and then one of ‘em was a little bit makeable. So, I had something to shoot.
As always, if you click the pictures below, you’ll be taken to the entire gallery which you may of course browse to your heart’s content. And, yup, all the pics are available for purchase. Just click on any you’re interested in and look top left for a link to the various pricing options.
Click the pics to go to the gallery



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