Hello Friends,

It appeared to be just about flat when I checked Dee Why at 0730. Swell’s out of the south at about a metre at sea, but average period is around the 8 second mark. Plus, the wind was out of the WNW at 15-20 kts. Nice looking day otherwise…

There’s nothing much showing on the buoys off to the south of Sydney and the Bureau’s modelling is showing it staying small through the day. It might come up a touch, but the main pulse is due to arrive around lunch time tomorrow, when the call is for 3-4 metres of south swell by dusk. That should last overnight and through Saturday. Unfortunately the wind forecast hasn’t improved. The swell is set to arrive with 30-35kts of S-SW wind. On Saturday it’s set to be southerly (but decreasing a bit during the day).

Have yourself a top old Friday!

Weather Situation

A low east of Tasmania is expected to move slowly to the east/northeast maintaining the strong to gale force southwest airstream over the southern and central parts of the coast throughout Friday before winds turn more southerly and ease on Saturday. Onshore airstream is likely to develop during Sunday as a ridge builds to the south.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight

Winds

Westerly 20 to 25 knots tending west to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots by early evening.

Seas

1.5 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.

Swell

Southerly 1 to 2 metres.

Friday 10 June

Winds

West to southwesterly 25 to 30 knots tending south to southwesterly 30 to 35 knots around midday.

Seas

2 to 3 metres increasing to 3 to 4 metres around midday.

Swell

Southeasterly 1 to 3 metres tending southerly 3 to 4 metres during the evening.

Weather

Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.

Hello Friends,

According to the MHL buoy data from 0600 our SE swell was averaging a barely detectable 0.5 metre at just 6 seconds. Fortunately there is some 11 second energy in amongst it. So, every now and then, a tiny but catchable little knee to waist high thing rolls into the Dee Why end of the Longy to Dee Why stretch. And yes, it’s very cold (by Sydney standards) this morning. It was less than 10 up on Collaroy Plateau when I climbed up into the crows nest to get a couple pics at around 0715.

Wind is set to range between 20 and 25kts this morning, but by evening it could be in the 25 to 30 kt range. As of 0600 the MHL buoys off to the south of Sydney were not showing any obvious sign of the expected increase in swell energy later today.  Wind reports from the Eden coast were still showing westerlies as of 0700. When they go more southerly, we can expect to see the swell ramping at the MHL buoys.

The wave forecast models are showing a little pulse for tomorrow morning into the two metre range. It still looks as though the big pulse will get started on Friday – along with strong W – SW wind. Depending on the interpretation, estimates are that the swell will be dead south at 10-12sec from the south when it peaks at anywhere between 4 and 5 metres overnight Friday. That could mean wave faces of similar size on sets at exposed spots.  Unfortunately, it looks as though the wind will be strong and  S to SE on Saturday morning.

Bit of a mixed bag, however I don’t think there’s any chance that this pulse will be anything like as good as last weekend’s.

Speaking of which, I got shots of upwards of a 100 surfers across the aforesaid weekend. If you surfed at any of the spots I covered (or know someone who did), you should look through to see if I got any of your waves. I always try to get ordinary surfers at their most extraordinary, so don’t assume that I’d never take a picture of you! There’s not much I like better than hearing from someone that I got the best picture of them they’ve ever seen. I use a pretty good rig as well (Nikon D7000) so the shots are high enough resolution to be blown up to A2 size (at least!).

Have yourself a good one!