Archive for July 2011

Little and tiny

Posted on July 18th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

Incoming tide, outgoing swell = not much going on at Dee Why. The swell’s down to about a metre out at sea. It’s coming more from the SE and the Bureau says it’ll be around to the east soon. Best sets I saw were struggling to get to waist high. From the shape of the forecast models, the likelihood is that it will stay like this for the next couple days.

The swell forecast models for this morning continue to show a very large swell event at the end of the week. As usual they aren’t unanimous about they project it all unfolding, but by Thursday it should be approaching the peak. The Bureau’s projections don’t show much happening by Wednesday morning, but some of the other interpretations disagree and say that as early as tomorrow afternoon there should be evidence of the pulse.

The predicted peak is around the 6 metre(!) mark at SE spots. Wind is projected to be in 15-20 kt range from the south. And there should be on again off again showers with it.

Should be interesting!

Go well with your Monday and keep on smilin’

Tides: H @1015, L @1600

Weather Situation
A cold front which moved across western parts of New South Wales overnight will reach the coast today, while an associated low pressure system passes over Bass Strait. An approaching upper level feature is expected to assist in the development of a second low over the western Tasman Sea during Tuesday, while a high to the south of Tasmania strengthens and maintains a ridge into western New South Wales. This low is likely to deepen further on Wednesday and appears likely to remain almost stationary over the Tasman Sea through to the end of the week, with windy conditions developing along much of the coast.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
West to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots becoming west to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre.
Tuesday 19 July
Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre.
Wednesday 20 July
Winds
West to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres increasing to 3 to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.


Curly at midday

Posted on July 18th, 2011 in Curl Curl.


Happened to be out and about on errands and took the opportunity to wander by Curly for a look at what was happening. Not much as it turns out. Waited for awhile before a catchable set turned up for the small crew at the south end. Short, weak and slow rides are the order of the day.

Another day or so of this and then it’s time for the big stuff and strong SW winds with it…


Its gone.

Posted on July 18th, 2011 in Long Reef.

 

After so many good days of swell it has finally taken a rest.  Only for a few days as it will return Wednesday.  Long Reef through to Manly is about 2 to maybe 3 foot.  Beautiful conditions early with a light offshore but no swell.  Enjoy  Surf Photos of You.


Longboards Out

Posted on July 18th, 2011 in Manly.

Really nice morning and back to the regular small longboard crew out at Manly.  Only pushing 2ft but one of those mornings that looks nice to float around with not many out.  Hide tide is filling in fast so even more reason to need some floatation.

Reports will be offline for a few days while I’m in colder Vicco

Surfboards Direct


Energy, In Byron Bay Today.

Posted on July 18th, 2011 in Byron.

Clean southeaster lines made the long haul up the coast, intimately hugged the cape and spent their remaining energy, in Byron Bay today. The site of this had the local Groms frothing and the loggers logging. Hardly surprising this sense of energy and gratitude. The vast majority of the holiday crowds had vanished, leaving this joyous little gift for a lucky few before they head back to work and to school in the bay. It was kind of pleasant with folks smiling and chatting and chilling and relaxing between energetic little sessions, In Byron Bay Today.


Afternoon drop.

Posted on July 17th, 2011 in Long Reef.

The swell is continuing its down trend and is around 2 – maybe 3 foot sets.  Conditions are still fairly calm with a light and variable N – NE blowing.  There are a few good banks at Longy at the moment from the Bombie to the Poles.  Good for a fun arvo surf.  Enjoy  Surf Photos of You.


Waited All Day for That Wave (Windansea)

Posted on July 17th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions.
Bare feet, so sweet
Surfari! Luke and Nikki drove down to SoCal in Luke’s truck with all of our surfboards, 10 boards for 5 surfers, including my 7’0”. J-Bird and Jacob flew to Orange County last night and Scott and I followed this morning. The plan was to meet up at 3pm at The Grand Kahuna, our rented triplex less than a block from the Windansea break in La Jolla. I’d hoped to surf someplace on the way down, but Luke wanted to hit Topanga in north LA County, so Scott and I meandered down the coast toward San Diego. In Laguna Beach, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at one of the original BJ’s (which still retains some uncorporatized charm), and then walked on the sand, dipping our toes in the warm ocean.

With traffic we didn’t reach La Jolla until 4 pm, but learned the rest of the posse had surfed late at Topanga and wouldn’t arrive until around 6. We strolled into town, which was much farther than I realized, and got some Thai food for dinner before our long walk back to Windansea. The crew had landed and was just heading out to surf. I hastily waxed my naked board, applying basecoat and warm-water wax, pulled on my 3/2, and darted to the beach as the day started to fade.

It was so nice to surf barefoot. But the waves were mushy, disorganized and shifty under a light onshore breeze. I had trouble being in the right spot and getting into them. When I caught a left, my foot slipped off the front of the board; I hadn’t waxed far enough forward. Doh! Finally an energetic right came directly to me, and I popped up and made the drop for a long ride. Woot! I waited all day for that wave.
The sun set into the warm ocean in a blaze of color, a nice start to our long weekend surfari.
Surfline: Just a weak mix of small NW windswell and leftover SSW (190-200) energy for mainly waist high and below surf this afternoon. Top breaks occasionally see an inconsistent waist high+ set. Building westerly wind now for some minor surface bump and texture @ most spots. Buoy 46231: (Wave) SWELL: 1.6 ft at 13.3 s SSW 56 / WIND WAVE: 2.6 ft at 5.9 s WNW / WVHT: 3.3 ft / APD: 5.5 s / MWD: 193° (Met) WVHT: 3.3 ft / DPD: 13.0 s / WTMP: 67.6° F. Tide: 3’ rising to 4’+.

Lazy Sundays

Posted on July 17th, 2011 in Manly.

Glad I slept in. Grey drizzle and weak shoulder-high-at-best waves at Manly.  At least it’s offshore and with the tide running out now you can certainly catch a wave.  Other place more exposed should have head high sets etc.  Check this vid that’s doin the rounds of Ryan Hipwood charging cloubreak this week.  Speechless stuff http://bit.ly/p46zRV

Surfboards Direct


Grey, small, but there were glassy little waves early

Posted on July 17th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

Some soft looking, smallish (waist to chest high) waves were lapping into Dee Why this morning just ahead of the high tide at 0940. Winds were light and out of the west, so conditions were smooth under the pearly skies. Swell is a couple metres at sea and is out of the SSE at about 10 seconds apart.

Given those numbers, I was surprised that it wasn’t a bit bigger. But maybe I just didn’t watch for long enough… the touch of east should help to open up a few more surf options around the place too.

Outlook remains for it to drop to flatness in the next 48 hours but then for a whopper SE pulse to fill in from late Wednesday. Some of the predictions are still calling for 4-5 metres of 10 sec swell Thr-Fri. The Bureau says the wind outlook is southerly for that period and the weather could be showery/cloudy.

Have yourself a top old Sunday!

Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the central Tasman Sea is slowly moving towards New Zealand, maintaining a ridge to the New South Wales north coast. A low pressure trough will bring a southwesterly change along the coast during Monday. On Tuesday a low is expected to develop over the western Tasman Sea as the trough deepens.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Northeast to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres decreasing to below 1 metre by early evening.
Swell
Southerly about 1.5 metres.
Monday 18 July
Winds
North to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending northwest to southwesterly around midday.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre tending easterly about 1 metre from the late morning.
Tuesday 19 July
Winds
West to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots becoming southwesterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon then increasing to 20 to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon then increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the evening.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre.


Winter Edition, In Byron Bay Today’s weekend review.

Posted on July 17th, 2011 in Byron.

Well that’s it for the 2011 edition of the winter holidays, in Byron Bay today. Although it’s been cold, the Groms got some pretty good waves for this time of year and there was much rejoicing from the young crew most days. The winter holidays may be over, but winter itself still holds sway. As we roll into the second half of the season. It’s time to watch the banks and see where the sand heads to next. As the predominately southwest winds and straight southerly swells sweep past the bay. Me I love this time of year, none too fond of the cold. But it’s a time when it’s possible to find isolated beach breaks and just go play with nice clean empty waves, In Byron Bay Today.


 
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