Archive for July 2011
Return of the grey
Posted on July 16th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Grim old start to the day. Clammy and misty and although the MHL buoy is showing a couple metres of SSE swell with a period of 11 seconds, I couldn’t make out much in the way of interesting activity at Dee Why when I checked it for the first time around 0700. Winds were light to begin with and they’re expected to swing around to the NE later.
This morning’s run of the swell forecast models points to a steady decline in energy levels across the day. So, if they’re right, this morning is as big as it gets not only for today but right through until Tuesday (when the call is for flatness). And then a funny thing happens…
As recently as yesterday evening, the swell forecast models were calling for a small improvement in size late in the week for the Sydney region. But this morning they seem to have gone nuts – totally bonkers in fact. At about the point that I’m decamping for a family do in Adelaide, the swell is set to surge dramatically. I think this might possibly be the biggest call I’ve seen in a very long time actually. Some riffs on the data are showing it building rapidly from three metres on Wednesday to a towering 6-8 metres by Friday night. Of course the wind call is for showery weather and strong, mostly southerly winds with the big stuff.
Long experience tells us that big calls like this from the swell models typically scale back as we get closer to the event. However, the models rarely get it totally and utterly wrong, so we’re probably pretty safe to say that it won’t be tiny!
TIDES: H @0900, L @1430
Weather Situation
A high pressure system centred over eastern Bass Strait is slowly moving towards New Zealand, while maintaining a ridge along the New South Wales coast. A low pressure trough is expected to deepen over the state’s west during Sunday before moving to the coast early in the new week. As this system moves offshore a low is likely to develop over the Tasman Sea, resulting in an increasing southerly airstream along the coast by mid-week.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds
Southwest to southeasterly winds 5 to 10 knots inshore at first, otherwise east to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 2 metres.
Sunday 17 July
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to 10 knots during the morning then increasing to 10 to 15 knots by early evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly about 1.5 metres.
Monday 18 July
Winds
North to northwesterly 5 to 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 metre tending easterly about 1 metre from the morning.
Please be aware
Wind gusts can be 40 percent stronger than the averages given here, and maximum waves may be up to twice the height.
Nearby Coastal Waters
Junky but still Waves
Posted on July 16th, 2011 in Manly.Late Sat surf check shows junky 3+ footers along Manly. Wind is offshore but things are a little messy. There’s the odd section if you are in the right spot but also weekend crowds keen for some action. It’s still offshore and forecast to swing around onshore later. Will be bigger at the usual spots.
There is a 3-4 feet + east south east swell. Light southwest breeze with a little bump on the surface.
Posted on July 16th, 2011 in Surf Reports.Lulls are longer and sets are smaller…
Posted on July 15th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Sorry to run so late, computer issues this end. Swell has dropped in size at sea to around 2.5 metres on average. It’s still out of the south and Huey’s dialled the power down to an average period of about 9 seconds. The sets are now much further apart at Dee Why. The waits are longer at the point than up the beach. Being school hols, there are adequate numbers at both spots.
You can definitely have fun with these waves because the bigger sets are still pushing the head high mark. But the expected downward trend is definitely in place.
From the shape of the forecast models it looks as though the energy will sputter out over the next few days, but we’re unfortunately in for a more onshore wind regime at the same time.
What an amazing run of swell we’ve had!
Have yourself a top old Friday – and keep on smilin’
Weather Situation
Southerly airstream dominates New South Wales coast on the eastern flank of a high centred west of Tasmania. Onshore winds will develop along New South wales coast from late Friday onwards with the high entering the Tasman Sea.
Forecast for Friday until midnight
Winds
Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 metres.
Saturday 16 July
Winds
East to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots tending east to northeasterly around midday.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly about 2 metres.
Sunday 17 July
Winds
North to northeasterly 5 to 10 knots becoming northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly about 1.5 metres.
The Goat’s Surf Forecast
Posted on July 15th, 2011 in Goat's Forecast.Surf forecast issued Friday 15 July 2011: Seven day outlook for Sydney:
Whew – looks like it may finally be starting to calm down after a full on week of big surf – that was exhausting – just watching it (which is all that I was doing ![]()
Saturday: in the 1-2 metre range South South East.
Sunday: 1-2 metres East South East.
Monday: about 1 metre East North East.
Tuesday: 1 metre or less North East.
Wednesday: less than 1 metre North East.
Thursday: about 1 metre East.
Friday: 1-2 metres East.
Water temp is around 19.
Weather from the Bureau:
Forecast issued at 4:22 pm EST on Friday 15 July 2011.
Forecast for the rest of Friday
- Summary

- A few showers.
- Chance of any rain: 95%

Sydney area
Cloudy. Showers, more frequent near the coast. Winds south to southwesterly averaging 10 to 20 km/h.
Saturday 16 July
- Summary

- Min 10
- Max 16
- Shower or two.
- Chance of any rain: 70%

- Rainfall amount: 1 to 4 mm
Sydney area
Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds south to southwesterly averaging up to 20 km/h tending west to southwesterly later in the evening.
No UV Alert, UV Index predicted to reach 2 [Low]
Around Sydney
| Location | Min | Max |
|---|---|---|
| Sydney | 10 | 16 |
| Penrith | 6 | 16 |
| Liverpool | 5 | 17 |
| Terrey Hills | 8 | 14 |
| Richmond | 5 | 16 |
| Parramatta | 8 | 16 |
| Campbelltown | 5 | 16 |
| Bondi | 12 | 17 |
Sunday 17 July
- Summary

- Min 10
- Max 18
- Shower or two.
Sydney area
Cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds west to northwesterly averaging up to 20 km/h tending north to northeasterly up to 25 km/h around midday.
Monday 18 July
- Summary

- Min 10
- Max 19
- Shower or two developing.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Patchy fog in the west early in the morning. Isolated showers developing in the afternoon. Light winds.
Tuesday 19 July
- Summary

- Min 8
- Max 17
- A shower or two.
Sydney area
Mostly sunny day. Isolated showers later. Winds westerly averaging up to 20 km/h.
Wednesday 20 July
- Summary

- Min 8
- Max 17
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds west to southwesterly averaging up to 30 km/h tending southerly 20 to 35 km/h during the afternoon.
Thursday 21 July
- Summary

- Min 11
- Max 18
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds southerly averaging up to 35 km/h.
Friday 22 July
- Summary

- Min 10
- Max 17
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Isolated showers. Winds southerly averaging up to 30 km/h.
Get in Early
Posted on July 15th, 2011 in Manly.Swell continues its decline in size and power. More into the 3ft range today and the wind is forecast to swing SW then around to onshore SE. Despite the high tide there was actually the odd shoulder while I was watching. Nothing too grunty but maybe as the tide runs out and before the wind change things could work. This rain is a strange thing too.
Still you’ve been spoilt lately and probably have your spot that works dialed in by now or are too fussy to bother.
I was wondering how this mega swell event was treating Fiji – check out whats been going down there with Slater on a 5’11 and a full star cast of chargers on rhino chasers http://bit.ly/pppxPT Insane.
Yeah Nice, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on July 15th, 2011 in Byron.
So we have a winner of the second Bear T- Shirt. Congratulations to Simon Staniforth in London, we’ll mail that off to you soon, in Byron Bay today. Of course the Answer was Matt Johnson, Jack Barlow & Leroy ‘The Masochist’ Smith. Thanks again to the boys at North Coast Surfboards, for supplying the joyous shirts, and for making the KyuP boards happen. Good work guys. There will be another T-shirt up for grabs soon, so if you haven’t watched Big Wednesday again recently. Then this weekend may be the time to do so. Ok down to the surf, cold windy and kind of grey. But you know what, Huey turned on some sweet little logger lines in the bay. There wasn’t that much swell, but it was clean, fun and at times almost a little uncrowded. Well sort of, a bit. Let’s just say it was fun enough, and many folks were quietly grinning in the carpark and muttering amongst themselves, yeah nice, In Byron Bay Today.
Down, but definitely not out
Posted on July 14th, 2011 in Dee Why.Hello Friends,
Looks like we’ve got another day of swell and favourable winds. Huey’s going to switch over to onshores tomorrow, so I’d say this is pretty much it for our amazing run of swell. Sets at Dee Why this morning were in the head high to head high plus range and the MHL buoy is reporting 2.5m at 11 seconds from the south, so they’re juicy.
The swell prediction models are showing the energy peaking this afternoon when we can also expect a reasonable chance of showers as well. So, it looks as though my last opportunity to get a few snaps in sunny conditions will be this morning. The Bureau says we’re going to have a week of partly cloudy and on again off again showers.
Tide was high at 0730, so the low will be along at a touch after 1300.
Get out there and enjoy if the schedule permits because if the models are to be believed, we’re heading into a week of marginal conditions from about Sunday…
Go well!


Weather Situation
A vigorous southwesterly airstream over the southern Tasman Sea will weaken today as a high pressure system centred southeast of the Bight is slowly moving east. Onshore winds will develop along New South wales coast from Friday onwards with the high entering Tasman Sea.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds
South to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly about 2 metres.
Friday 15 July
Winds
South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots tending east to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots around midday.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 metres.
Saturday 16 July
Winds
East to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 metres.
Ground Hog Day
Posted on July 14th, 2011 in Manly.The most amazing run of swell still not really delivering for Manly locals. Touch smaller 3-4ft again. Queenscliff is closing out. North of the pipe has a bit of a rip bowl left and right where most people are gathering and it’s too small for me to be bothered to check sth Manly. The high tide isn’t helping the morning session.
I haven’t had the time to find myself a magic bank so I hope you have. There’s been plenty of time to do so in this run of swell. Supposed to pick up again today then we have a wind shift to the south tomorrow to change our run of perfect conditions.
The Next One, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on July 14th, 2011 in Byron.
So ok here we go, let’s give away another Bear T-Shirt thanks to North Coast Surfboards, in Byron Bay today. The first subscriber to answer this simple question wins the shirt. What are the full character names of the three friends in the movie Big Wednesday? Take note of the word full. Ok while we’re waiting for a correct answer, onto to today’s conditions in the bay. Truth is it was kind of lame most of the day, just one of those days. The swell was a tad lumpy, the wind was non committal and the crowd was a bit dysfunctional to say the least. But you know it soon became apparent that there was a going to be a gift in all this for those that hung around. These same lame conditions were actually brewing up a sunset that had to be seen to be believed. Naturally Yoko worked hard to capture it as accurately as possible. So thanks to her handiwork, we can share that gift with you guys, In Byron Bay Today.


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