Archive for August 2011
The Goat’s Surf Forecast
Posted on August 19th, 2011 in Goat's Forecast.For the weekend – wet and wild wild and wet blggh
PICS by Don: Sth Narrabeen, Thr evening 18 Aug 11
Posted on August 19th, 2011 in Don's surfin' pics, South Narrabeen, Top stories.
After running a heap of errands I finally got down to south Narrabeen right on dusk. Opted to take pictures rather than go for a short surf. I set up basically in front of Marquesas and shot up and down the beach from there. The energy focus definitely shifted around quite a bit. Sometimes the southern peaks were all happening and then they’d go quiet and the northern peaks would have a turn. I only had light enough to shoot for about half an hour, but I still managed to get more than 200 frames. If you were out, check ‘em out!
As always, if you want to buy one, just click on the pic to bring it up to full size, then look top left for a link to your size/price options.
Click the pic below to jump to the gallery.
First In (The Hook/Sharks)
Posted on August 19th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions.I could see waves breaking at Sharks, so I moved over there after half an hour at the Hook. Before I could sort out where to be when the rare sets came through, I was caught inside and pulled off one ride but not a second from the whitewater. After more waiting, this time out far enough, I was paddling for a nice set wave and just about to pop up when the kelp reached out and grabbed my board. Darn seaweed. Sad when the wave passed by, for they were few and far between. Many more minutes later another came; I was ready and got a good little ride.
Shivering now after an hour of little activity in 50-something water and drizzly air, I thought that might be my last wave, but I'd head back to the Hook via the ocean instead of the beach to see if anything else might come my way before I got out at the Hook stairs. As I stroked over, a harbor seal and I surprised each other, only four feet apart. The crowd on the peak had grown to about 10, scrabbling for scarce scraps. It was nice to see Darren, who shaka'd and smiled from his longboard as he reached the lineup. Finally I caught a tiny wave to the beach, thankful that I'm a morning person. So worth it for those first two waves, all by myself in the glassy sea.
Surfline: Weak, dribbly little lines working through. Long lulls. Small, steep angled South (170-180) swell holds this morning, mixing with minimal NW windswell wrap. Most of the region remains either flat or close to it, as top exposures pull in a few 2-3' occ. plus Southern Hemi sets. Conditions are mostly clean, there just isn't much of any swell to go along. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s S 66 / WIND WAVE: 3.3 ft at 6.7 s NW / WVHT: 4.3 ft / APD: 5.3 s / MWD: 184° (Met) WSPD: 16 kts / GST: 19 kts / WVHT: 4.9 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / WDIR: 320° / ATMP: 56.1° F / WTMP: 56.5° F. Tide: 2' dropping slightly.
No Wax, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on August 19th, 2011 in Byron.
So we have a winner of the North Coast surfboards Bear T-shirt giveaway, in Byron Bay today. There were many interesting and entertaining observations on how Hollywood can totally misunderstand surfing. But the one we were looking for was spotted correctly by Matt King all the way across the Tasman in NZ. Congratulations Matt your Bear T-Shirt is on its way. For those still wondering the answer was this. Despite being about to paddle out in 12-15 foot surf, our hero, Matt Johnson. Casually and rather nonchalantly strolls down to the shoreline, with a big wave gun tucked under his arm that is totally and utterly devoid of surf wax. That’s right no wax at all! How did they miss that? Anyway that’s enough of that, onto today, well there were choices but we opted for the meatiest we could find. Hope you enjoy, In Byron Bay Today.
Windblown but at least it’s not onshore to begin with
Posted on August 18th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Nice to see a bit of sunshine this morning along the Northern Beaches. Interestingly the wind was out of the north at about 10-15 kts along the beaches (judging from the white horses out at sea, it’s stronger offshore). The winds are due to swing westerly later as the skies clear.
According to the latest MHL data for Sydney, the swell is coming in from the NE at about 9 seconds apart. It’s near the 3 metre mark on average out where the buoy’s anchored, but wave faces at Dee Why looked to typically be around the chest high mark.
The Bureau’s swell modelling calls for the average size to drop a little as the day goes along, but it’s not shaping up to drop into the unsurfable range.
As of 0715 the surface conditions were kinda choppy and disorganised looking at Dee Why, but maybe as the wind comes around more to the west, we’ll start getting some interesting surf options at spots that like NE windswell. I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it.
Tide’s high at 1050 and back to low at about 1650.
I won’t pre-empt the Goat, but it looks as though messy bigness is in our future…
Have yourself a top old Thursday!
Weather Situation
An active cold front will clear the coastal parts of the state Thursday morning. Strong to gale force northerly winds over most coastal waters will turn westerly and ease with the passage of the front. A complex low pressure system is likely to form over the western Tasman Sea Friday as an upper level trough moves across NSW. Although its forecast position is uncertain, strong to gale force winds are expected are along parts of the NSW coast later Friday and over the weekend, most likely for the central part of the coast initially then contracting further north. Southeasterly swell is also likely to increase over the weekend.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 30 knots tending westerly 15 to 20 knots later in the morning then decreasing to 10 to 15 knots around midday.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Swell
Easterly 2 metres tending northeasterly about 2 metres from the late morning.
Weather
The chance of thunderstorms offshore this morning.
Friday 19 August
Winds
West to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending south to southwesterly around midday then tending south to southeasterly 25 to 35 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the afternoon then increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre.
Saturday 20 August
Winds
Southeasterly 25 to 35 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Easterly 2 to 3 metres.

Southy going off: pics 18 Aug 4.30pm
Posted on August 18th, 2011 in Top stories.Surf Photos of You. I cruised down to South Narrabeen between 4.20pm and 5.20pm out in front of the South Narrabeen Surf Club where it was a clean 4 foot and offshore. One of those perfect afternoon sessions. Some great waves! If you were out there, check out my Surf Gallery.
2 – 4 foot and offshore
Posted on August 18th, 2011 in Surf Reports.It has cleaned up since early this morning as the wind has turned more towards the SW. There were a few waves at Long Reef. Swell is expected to build in the next day or so. Enjoy Surf Photos of You.
Lump Fest, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on August 18th, 2011 in Byron.
Geez Huey giveth and Huey taketh away, it went from looking kind of fun to a howling windswept lump fest, in Byron Bay today. Meanwhile here’s another Bear T-shirt to be given away courtesy of North Coast Surfboards. As we get down to the business end of the movie Big Wednesday. We are greeted with the scene of Matt, Jack & Leroy reunited again to go and test their metal against some very serious swell. The three friends stroll down the beach to paddle out. During this scene any surfer worth their salt would quickly notice a hideous Hollywood mistake. Only a non surfer would ever have allowed such a travesty to slip past editing. First subscriber to tell us what is so very wrong with this scene wins the shirt, In Byron Bay Today. 
Definitely a few sets about
Posted on August 17th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Not much wind around as the morning got started. Swell settings are pretty similar to yesterday afternoon, which is to say the main energy is out of the SE at 2 metres with an average period of 12 seconds. Ordinarily those numbers should add up to some juicy and sizable swell, but weirdly (while I watched anyway) about the biggest thing I saw hit Dee Why was maybe into the head high range. That’s a good thing, but the waves didn’t look that juicy to me and the fact that there were only a few people in the water suggests to me that it’s not looking too attractive.
I’d go check my favourite SE spot this morning if I had the time because there really should be something going on. The wind is set to ramp up from the NE as the day goes along and rain is on the way too. So north corners will probably be the go. Oh and the swell prediction models say that the swell should pick up in coming hours.
The models are projecting better conditions tomorrow as the swell moves more easterly and the wind comes around to the NW. Friday currently looks like not much, but then late in the afternoon we’re set to move into a prolonged period of strong southerly winds, showers and biggish but messy south swell. Looks to me as though we’ll have some size but that it’ll pretty hard to find much in the way of surfable conditions right through the weekend. Be interesting to see the Goat’s take on this…
Have yourself a top old Wednesday and keep on smilin’!
TIDES: H @1015, L @1610
Weather Situation
A high pressure system near New Zealand extends a weakening ridge into eastern New South Wales. An active cold front is forecast to cross much of the state during Wednesday, reaching the coast early Thursday. A low is then likely to form over the western Tasman Sea as an upper level trough moves across the region, although its precise position is currently uncertain.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Winds
North to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots increasing to 15 to 25 knots during the morning then increasing to 20 to 30 knots around midday.
Seas
1 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres around midday.
Swell
Southeasterly about 2 metres.
Thursday 18 August
Winds
North to northwesterly 20 to 30 knots tending west to northwesterly around dawn then decreasing to 20 to 25 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing to 2 metres around dawn.
Swell
Easterly about 2 metres.
Weather
The chance of thunderstorms from the late morning, contracting offshore and clearing by early evening.
Friday 19 August
Winds
West to northwesterly 10 to 20 knots, reaching 25 knots at times, tending west to southwesterly up to 10 knots during the morning then tending southerly 10 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Winds increasing to southerly 20 to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre tending southeasterly during the evening.
Junk and bump
Posted on August 17th, 2011 in Surf Reports.This is a good 3 – 4 foot swell this morning but it is really bumpy all over the place. But as I write a strong northerly has just sprung up. Could be some good waves at the moment. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You


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