Curly/Freshy Rpt

Posted on August 17th, 2011 in Surf Reports.

Hmmmm,….another morning where Curly is a disorganised mess, and Freshwater looks clean and regular. Maybe headhigh on the big ones, but fat, but sectiony, but certainly surfable

Yeah Nice, In Byron Bay Today,

Posted on August 17th, 2011 in Byron, Surf Reports.

That phrase was on most folks lips, in reference to a little pulse of swell we experienced this afternoon, in Byron Bay today. It was just one of classic Autumn moments when it warms up, giving us all the hope of an early summer. The wind backed right off, and Huey blessed with a little lift in wave height getting putting big smiles on most folks dials as we wound on towards the end of the day. True it’s still really soft, but that has more to do with the bank than the swell. It’s just the way it is at the moment, looks real pretty but lacks any real power. Not that anyone was complaining, as it was almost too nice to be true, In Byron Bay Today.

Again, not flat if you’re keen

Posted on August 16th, 2011 in Dee Why.

Smoother at Long Reef.

Posted on August 16th, 2011 in Long Reef.

I checked a few places out and Long Reef seems to be fairly smooth with a little bump and backwash.  There are a few 2 – 3 foot  sets with a bigger one catching a few out now and then.  Wind light from the SW.  Swell should building slightly over the next day or so.  Enjoy.  Surf Photos of You.

Curly/Freshy Rpt

Posted on August 16th, 2011 in Surf Reports.

Fattish, kinda sluggish, but plenty of corduroy marching into Curl Curl. Looks like a bit of a struggle to pick up all but the shoredumps though, and round the corner Freshy is very small

Much of the Same

Posted on August 16th, 2011 in Manly.

Much of the same 2ft fat ESE peaks.  The more foam the more waves you catch. Clean and sunny.  I wish some decent sand would come back to Manly.  I’m away for a week so reports back on Monday. Hope you get some waves.

www.surfboardsdirect.com.au

 

What We Got, In Byron Bay Today,

Posted on August 16th, 2011 in Byron.

Well it’s come down to a choice, it’s either time to go and tidy up that long avoided pile in the garage, or drag the log out for a few micro slides, in Byron Bay today. Hmm garage can wait another year or two, as although it’s been real small it’s clean enough and there’s some logging to do. Sure it could be better, sure it could be bigger. But that way we see it we can either complain about what’s not, or just be grateful for what we got. Like most we know around here, we tend to choose the second option every chance we get, In Byron Bay Today.

PICS by Don: South Curly, Sat morning 13/8/11

Posted on August 15th, 2011 in Curl Curl, Don's surfin' pics, News Stories, Top stories.

Saturday morning delivered a small SE swell to Sydney’s Curl Curl beach and I was on hand to shoot it from around 1015 to 1115. Waves were on the soft side it has to be said, but there were definitely a few fun little sections along with the very occasional head high plus bomb set. I set up at a position roughly 1/3 the way up the beach from South Curl Curl SLSC and focused mainly on the complex of rideable peaks to the south of me. If you were in the water and caught a wave in that time, there’s an excellent chance that I got a shot of you.

Click the pic below to jump to the complete gallery of pictures from the 1015-1115 session of 13 August 2011.

Tough search this morning…

Posted on August 15th, 2011 in Curl Curl.

It was a tough search for waves this morning.  From North Narrabeen to South Curl Curl there were only a handful of surfers out.  The SE swell is around 1 – 2 foot.  Wind from the SW but only light.  Monday…. a good day for work.  Enjoy.. Surf Photos of You

Sunshine and Dramamine (Linda Mar)

Posted on August 15th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions. I discarded three different surf plans for today (Jetty mid-morning with Luke, who bailed; Santa Cruz mid-morning with a pack of strangers; Santa Cruz mid-afternoon with a bigger pack of strangers but also sunshine) before ending up somewhere I didn't expect: Linda Mar in the afternoon. I went with at-least-it's-sunny low expectations, and it was funner than that.
None of the SSW groundswell was making it in, so the waves were all short-period NW windswell. It wasn't too hard to get out, with the help of a weak rip current and a brief lull. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, the lineup was naturally crowded. Before paddling out, I decided to try a left that was sometimes showing just north of the pumphouse. At the edge of the pack, I wasn't getting much, except for a few where I thought, what the hell, might as well catch this whitewater, so I moved a little north to a more irregular but less popular peak. I tried to emulate what I've been watching the pros do, using my upper body led by my arms/shoulders to flow into turns, a bigger movement than I've been doing. It felt a bit wobbly, but faster. Paddling back out, I was pummeled by a steady onslaught of broken waves, till the color and opacity of the water suggested to me to see if I could touch the bottom. Sure enough, I'd been pushed that far back toward the beach. Ugh, I hate windswell. When Ward Coffey shapes a shortboard for me for my next birthday, a main criteria will be that I'll be able to duck-dive it.

I returned to the rip current for an assist to the lineup, but unfortunately all the ineffectual turtle-rolling, waves to the face, and sloshing around had brought on a case of the queasies. It's been a while since I've gotten seasick while surfing, so long that I've thought to stop taking Dramamine before every session. In fact, I successfully skipped it in Hawaii and on some calm point-break days at home, but I'm sure to pop one whenever the water might be choppy. Today was no exception, but perhaps it had been too long since lunch and too much seawater had found its way in through my sinuses. In any event, I was getting miserable fast, though I pushed on to the outside. My perseverance was rewarded with a good wave. It started to crumble outside, and I paddled toward the peak to get on it riding left. As the wave slowed and reformed, I turned right to recapture the energy as it peaked again. Woot!

That should have been my last wave, but as always, when I get a good one, I want another. I rested on the beach for a few minutes until my stomach calmed enough to give it another go. Partway out, having drifted from the rip to be smashed relentlessly by whitewater and dry heaving over my board, I thought to give up, but look - a lull! I stroked quickly the rest of the way to the lineup. Soon a nice little left was mine so I called it day.

And it was sunny!

Surfline: Real soft and crumbly now on the full tide. Westerly wind add some bump and texture to the surface, while NW wind/groundswell and small SSW Southern Hemi energy keep things running knee-waist high with some larger sets scattered around. Pretty weak and funky overall. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 3.9 ft at 6.7 s NW 65 / WIND WAVE: 2.6 ft at 4.5 s NW / WVHT: 4.9 ft / APD: 5.4 s / MWD: 312° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 14 kts / WVHT: 4.9 ft / DPD: 7.0 s / WDIR: 310° / ATMP: 56.7° F / WTMP: 56.3° F. Tide: 4' dropping to 3'.