Archive for September 2011
Patience, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on September 23rd, 2011 in Byron.The weather has been a joy and the whales have been at play, but if it’s waves thee seek, then it’s time to be patient, in Byron Bay today. Quite simply despite the fun in the sun, when it comes to surfable swell, there has been next to none. So take a breath crew, exercise a little patience and wait for Huey to do the do. As it’s looking like this flat spell is set to continue. Well for a little while yet, In Byron Bay Today. 
Coaching: Poaching (The Hook)
Posted on September 23rd, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Reports, Surf Sessions. Our first WNW groundswell of the fall season filled in overnight. With the buoy showing 12' @ 16s, I thought the waves would be much bigger than they were, and so did a lot of people. The Hook still had nice size, shoulder to overhead, but the crowd had turned out for more. Barry led me around from the second peak to Sharks and back again, looking to poach some of the smaller waves from the pack.On a spacecraft, there's a mechanism that's used to position the reflectors. It has two components, one coarse to get the reflector in the vicinity of the desired location, and another for fine-tuning to the exact spot. Barry helped me to be in the right general area, and his break knowledge and experience were invaluable in the crowded conditions. But then it was up to me to be in just the right place at the right time, when traffic would allow me to get a wave.
For a while I wasn't having much luck, but ended up with four solid rides. On one, I was following Barry right to correct our drift, when he said, "Are you going to go for this one?" The wave was almost upon me and I sat up quickly, slid back, spun around and paddled right into it for a nice drop and ride. Woot!
Barry noticed that I'm paddling stronger back to the lineup, so all those swim sprints must be doing some good. My wave judgment, timing and positioning are also getting (incrementally) better; today my ratio of waves paddled for to waves ridden was high with no takeoff crashes like the last coaching session. There were a few I missed because I wasn't deep enough, but I didn't go for any that were clearly too steep/deep.
There was a bold sea otter in the lineup, putting on a show between sets just a dozen feet away. When he bent forward to scratch his upper back, he curled into a spinning otter-ball, rolling head over heals, 'round and 'round in the water. I don't bring my waterproof camera out on coaching sessions because I want to focus on surfing, but I wished I had it then.
When it was time for just one more, I stroked into a nice head-high right and turned quickly on the shoulder for a little face time before it sectioned. I kept riding, all the way to the beach. Stoked!
Surfline: New NW groundswell peaks with chest high to 1-2' overhead waves at good spots. Standouts go 2-3'+ overhead on sets. Small S-SW swell blend mixes in with 2-3' sets. Light winds early. Patchy, dense fog possible. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 14.4 ft at 13.8 s WNW 77 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 4.8 s NW / WVHT: 14.4 ft / APD: 11.3 s / MWD: 302° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 14.4 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / WDIR: 300° / ATMP: 54.1° F / WTMP: 56.8° F. Tide: Peaking high at 4'.
NE Windswell Lines
Posted on September 23rd, 2011 in Manly.2ft NE windswell lines this morning. Looked ok as it’s a perfect day, its offshore and hardly anyone was out so there was a lot of unridden ones. Might be a bit weak but its waist high, low tides at 10am and a nice day.
Smooth as a billiard table
Posted on September 22nd, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Glassy and micro this morning at Dee Why. Given the swell settings are showing about a metre of 8 second period south windswell, I’d say it’s not going to be much bigger anywhere else. Well, unless you fancy a trip to the cold waters of western Vicco… (if you’re down that way and want to send in a guest report and pic, I’ll publish it…)
This morning’s forecast for Sydney coastal waters is calling for 20-25 kts of NE wind after lunch. So, there might possibly be some burgery little windswell action at the usual spots toward dark. If the wind keeps pushing along in the early evening hours, there just might be a little something for the early risers.
Happily, this morning’s run of the WAMs is finally showing something hopeful shaping up for the mornings on Saturday, Sunday and Monday and maybe even Tuesday. We aren’t talking big or anything, particularly early in the sequence, but if the forecasts are right, there could be waist to chest on Saturday morning, waist to shoulder on Sunday and maybe chest to head high on Monday. That’s the good news. The not so hot news is that models say the wind will generally be out of the SE, so it could be a case of get in early or miss out…
Have yourself a top old Thursday!
TIDES: L @0850 H @1530
Weather Situation
A high pressure system will move into the Tasman Sea on Thursday. A south to southwest change is expected to develop along the coast during Friday and early Saturday followed by an onshore airstream on Sunday.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots tending north to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots around midday then becoming northeasterly 20 to 25 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending north to northeasterly 25 to 30 knots by early evening.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly about 1 metre decreasing to 0.5 metres from midday.
Friday 23 September
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots tending southerly 20 to 30 knots by early evening.
Seas
Up to 2 metres decreasing to below 1 metre around midday then increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.
Swell
Southerly 1 metre tending easterly about 1 metre from the morning.
Saturday 24 September
Winds
South to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching 30 knots at times, becoming southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning then increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending south to southeasterly 20 to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 0.5 to 1.5 metres.
More Micro Stuff
Posted on September 22nd, 2011 in Longy.More micro waves at Manly so if you found something yesterday at a south magnet go back there with your best small wave craft. Cracker of a day. If you read this as I post Kelly & Owen are back in the final at the Hurley pro. Watch it now.
Man Up, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on September 22nd, 2011 in Byron.Well after much talk about a southerly change and a new swell, we got the wind but not the waves as well, in Byron Bay today. The southerly came up overnight and very quickly knocked any size off the north east wind swell that had built the day before. All that was left was a wee dribble of powerless ripples as a few lines refracted off the cape. But Fear not, because if there’s one thing we’re not afraid of in Byron Bay, it’s the knee knocking challenge of itsy bitsy waves. Once faced with this earth shattering dilemma, the crew toughened up and manned up, except the of course girls. Then paddled out and faced the terror of itsy bitsy swells, In Byron Bay Today. 
The Goat’s Surf forecast
Posted on September 21st, 2011 in Goat's Forecast.Surf forecast issued Wednesday 21 September 2011. Seven day outlook:
Sydney
Small – water temp 17
Thursday; 1 metre or less South East
Friday: about 1 North East
Saturday: ditto South East
Sunday: ditto
Monday: 1-2 South East
Tuesday: 1-2 North East
Wednesday: ditto
Byron
Small – water temp 21 22
Thursday: about 1 metre South East
Friday: about 1 North East
Saturday: less than 1 metre North East
Sunday: about 1 metre South East
Monday: 1-2 South East
Tuesday: 1-2 East
Wednesday: 1-2 North East
Surf lifesaving patrols start this weekend – swim between the red and yellow flags – boards outside the blue flags.
Warmer water north of Sydney starts around Cape Hawke – warm watersof the East Coast current currently (!) heading out into the Tasman off there.
Weather from the Bureau:
Sydney
Thursday 22 September
- Summary

- Min 12
- Max 23
- Sunny.
- Chance of any rain: 1%

- Rainfall amount: 0 mm
Sydney area
Sunny. Light winds tending north to northeasterly up to 30 km/h around midday.
Fire Danger - High
UV Alert from 8:50 am to 2:40 pm, UV Index predicted to reach 7 [High]
Around Sydney
| Location | Min | Max |
|---|---|---|
| Sydney | 12 | 23 |
| Penrith | 9 | 28 |
| Liverpool | 8 | 25 |
| Terrey Hills | 10 | 22 |
| Richmond | 7 | 27 |
| Parramatta | 9 | 25 |
| Campbelltown | 7 | 26 |
| Bondi | 14 | 21 |
Friday 23 September
- Summary

- Min 13
- Max 27
- Sunny.
Sydney area
Sunny. Winds northwesterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending cooler, gusty south to southwesterly up to 45 km/h by early evening.
Saturday 24 September
- Summary

- Min 14
- Max 20
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging up to 30 km/h.
Sunday 25 September
- Summary

- Min 13
- Max 18
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Cloudy. Scattered showers. Winds south to southeasterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending east to southeasterly up to 30 km/h during the afternoon.
Monday 26 September
- Summary

- Min 13
- Max 21
- A few showers.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Scattered showers during the morning. Winds northeasterly averaging up to 35 km/h.
Tuesday 27 September
- Summary

- Min 13
- Max 25
- Partly cloudy.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Winds north to northeasterly averaging up to 35 km/h.
Wednesday 28 September
- Summary

- Min 17
- Max 28
- A little rain developing.
Sydney area
Partly cloudy. Patchy rain later in the day. Winds north to northeasterly averaging up to 25 km/h tending north to northwesterly up to 20 km/h during the evening.
Byron Bay
| Wed. 21 Sep | Thu. 22 Sep | Fri. 23 Sep | Sat. 24 Sep | Sun. 25 Sep | Mon. 26 Sep | Tue. 27 Sep | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Summary | |||||||
| Max. Temperature | 21°C | 23°C | 23°C | 22°C | 22°C | 24°C | |
| Min. Temperature | 15°C | 14°C | 15°C | 16°C | 15°C | 16°C |
Dolphins…
Posted on September 21st, 2011 in Long Reef.A large pod of dolphins cruised Long Reef this morning. I managed to take a few of them having fun on the 2 foot SE swell. Wind a light offshore from the WSW. Memorable moments this morning. Enjoy Surf Photos of You.
Good day for a walk
Posted on September 21st, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Lovely morning, but no real waves at Dee Why to speak of. Looks like a good day to take care of other obligations. The curious thing is that the MHL buoy is currently showing a couple metres of south swell off Sydney. It’s only averaging 8 seconds apart, but even so, there ought to be more showing. Perhaps there is more to be found up at the north ends…
Keeping it brief today ’cause I’m exceptionally busy!
Oh yeah, a question came in overnight that I can’t help with, does anyone know the answer?
Hi Guys, I was wondering whether anyone knows if Danny Sherwood ex. Aloha is still shaping boards? I’ve a few of his Aloha boards over the years all great and I was hoping he still shapes so that I can get another but he seems to have disappeared. Wondering if the gurus at Realsurf might have any clues?
If you know, please drop me a line via the feedback form
Ankle Slappers
Posted on September 21st, 2011 in Manly.Tiny south swell running so only knee high sets at Queenscliff and flat at the sth end. Nice WSW offshore wind and 7:41am low tide so try Curly for something more surfable today. It’s a nice enough day to need to.


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