Waves about and that’s a good thing

Into the Fog (Linda Mar)

All photos/video taken with my new Panasonic Lumix TS3, except as noted.

Before I left this morning, I checked the Linda Mar cam on Surfline and saw nothing but fog. Steamer Lane, which is slightly predictive of the cam-less Jetty, was tiny to flat. I had little hope that the Jetty would have waves for me, but I did have a little hope. Alas, the indicators were right; double-overhead to a mouse on the sunny edge of the low cloud bank. Not wanting to surf alone, I drove north into the fog. I didn’t stop at Montara, where a great white shark was seen last week, but it looked unruly in glimpses from the road.

Tiny waves on the edge of fog at the Jetty (Google Nexus One)

At Linda Mar, the fog was pushed back from the beach so I could see the lineup. The south end was packed, and the parking lot was filling up.

Busy on the south end at Linda Mar

I spied with my little eye a left popping up near the pumphouse with just a few guys on it.

With some underlying short-period windswell in the water, it was a bit of effort to paddle out, but I drew on my swim-sprint strength to get to the outside, breathing hard when I reached it.

Wave selection was key since so many of the waves were closing out, and I do think I’m getting better at making those judgments. I caught an almost head-high left that was surprisingly fast, turning on the shoulder, going with the flow. Woot! The shoulder held up for a bit but I dropped off when the wave broke to avoid repeating the paddle out through an excess of whitewater. I rode a few more fun lefts, shoulder-high or better. It’s so much easier to see what the wave’s doing and respond when the face is in front of me instead of behind my back. I love lefts!

After a brief appearance the sun retreated into the fog, which then grew even heavier. There was a strong southward current which many in the water seemed not to notice. Maybe that’s why there were so many people at the south end; they were getting pushed down there and piling up. I was keeping an eye on the pumphouse, my shore reference point, and constantly paddling back against the current to my spot, which was staying pretty empty despite the growing crowd. But I’ve been fighting a virus since last week, and too soon my energy faded and I started to make mistakes. I caught one last fun left, this time riding it all the way to the shallows. A short but oh-so-sweet session!

Surfline: NW (300-320) wind/groundswell mix blends with small-scale S-SW Southern Hemi energy this morning. Waist-chest-shoulder high surf continues at the decent exposures, while top breaks hit head high on the best sets. Fairly light wind now under foggy skies. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.9 ft at 11.4 s NW 90 / WIND WAVE: 3.3 ft at 5.6 s NW / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 6.1 s / MWD: 309° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 5.9 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / WDIR: 330° / ATMP: 54.9° F / WTMP: 58.8° F. Tide: Rising through 3.5′.

Blown Up

Well wouldn’t ya know it. Got up pre-dawn and it was strong sideshore and choppy.  Went back to bed for a sec, sun rises and wind has backed off and it’s cleaned up. Strong SSW wind has blown up about 3ft of sth swell overnight.  Some 3ft sets at Manly if you wait at the northern ends.  Shape is still not that good though. 5.54am low tide.

Surfboards Direct

That Summer Feeling, In Byron Bay Today.

I waited for a space in an already full car park, this morning, in Byron Bay today. Just sat and mused to myself, hmm yeah it’s got that summer feeling in the bay. The cars were already backed up by early morn as the Groms frothed about the place while the oldies refrained from blowing their horns. What’s it all about some crew where saying, why so busy is it pumping? Nah it’s just a warm sunny Sunday and the day trippers were hunting. Sure the surf was kinda lame, the wind was on it and a lack of power made it tame. But that didn’t stop people enjoying themselves just the same. As one shift left another arrived and so it went on most of the day. Because to put it simply that summer feeling was in the air and on folks minds, In Byron Bay Today.  

Catch up with the rest of your life surfers

Filling Up

Snoozed in and missed out I think. 2ft East swell was prob good on low tide but now full of clubbies inside their own flags on big boards with no leashes. Not sure why they are allowed and we aren’t.  Anyway tide is filling in (11:31am) but there will be something small for a longboard throughout the day.

Surfboards Direct

Let It Blow Huey, In Byron Bay Today’s Weekend Review.

You know spring tends to be a tad flat and kind of windy, in Byron Bay. Not to mention lots of rain and thunderstorms in the bay. But so far this spring the weather has been a non event. Sure we’ve had a few storms and a couple of flat spells. But they soon came and went. The unusual thing for spring is that we’ve had regular southerlies blowing in. Now southerlies are nice, but in spring they charge a hefty price. So far several spots that would normally be a build up of sand, have failed to do so, and this ain’t right. The progress of the summer banks is not building up as wide or packing in as tight as it usually would be for this time of year. So we really need those howling northerlies to kick into gear. We say, please let it blow Huey. Bring on those northerlies and pack that sand in. Then when summer comes the crowds can spread a little more and we can all wear a grin, In Byron Bay Today.  

Little waves about for the early at east spots

Air.

I came across a tow-in who managed to get his surfer into a few little sections.  2 foot E swell with a fairly breezy NNE wind.  Very short period bump at open beaches.  Enjoy your weekend.  Surf Photos of You.

SLATER SET TO CLAIM HISTORIC 11th WORLD TITLE IN SAN FRAN