Archive for October 2011
Bump, bump, bumping along near flatness
Posted on October 24th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
In line with expectations, we have another morning of marginal to flat conditions in Sydney. There’s about a metre of ENE 7 second period wind swell out at sea, but it was too small at Dee Why to attract any punters at around 0700.
To the extent it matters, the wind was light early but it should go NE this afternoon and push up to 20-30 kts ahead of a late, gusty south change. The wind will drop off to 10-15 kts SW by tomorrow morning, so there just might be a little bump around the place if we’re lucky.
Looking ahead, the swell models are still pointing at a small but very long period south pulse late Weds into Thursday. The wind outlook isn’t too flash, but maybe we’ll get lucky…
Have yourself a great Monday!
Weather Situation
A stationary high pressure system over the northern Tasman Sea extends a ridge into northern New South Wales. This high pressure ridge is weakening ahead of a cold front that is currently situated to the west of Tasmania. This front is forecast to sweep across southeast Australia during Monday and Tuesday, bringing a southerly change to most of the New South Wales coast before it weakens into a trough over the north. Following this, the next high is forecast to move from the Bight to the southern Tasman Sea mid-week, establishing an onshore airstream.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
Northerly 10 to 20 knots tending north to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots during the afternoon and to 20 to 30 knots by early evening. Late gusty southerly change 25 to 30 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 metres by early evening then increasing to 3 metres later in the evening.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre.
Tuesday 25 October
Winds
South to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 10 to 20 knots around dawn then becoming southeast to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon. Inshore sea breezes.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing below 1.5 metres around dawn.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre tending southeasterly about 2 metres from the late morning.
Wednesday 26 October
Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly about 2 metres.
Smashing Pumpkins (HMB Jetty)
Posted on October 24th, 2011 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions.Today's semi-monthly mass surf meetup was to be followed by skating. At the suggestion of my surf coach, I just bought a skateboard, a Sector 9 Orange Crush. I've never had a desire to ride a skateboard, since falling on pavement is significantly more unkind than falling in water. But Barry rightly pointed out that not much of a surf session is actually spent riding waves, so a good way to get more time on my feet practicing turns would be to do that on a skateboard. So OK, I'm in. I was surprised to learn how many of my surf buddies also skate; in fact, it's most of them. And a couple offered to show me the ropes this morning.Unfortunately today's surf 'n' skate plans kind of fell apart, so it's a good thing I bugged my coworker David into giving me some skating tips in a parking lot near work Friday. Still, several of us met up at the Jetty to surf. By the time I finally arrived, Luke, John, Heather and her husband Eric had already suited up, and I was badly in need of surf, determined pumpkin seekers having turned my normally half-hour drive to the Jetty into a trek of more than an hour and fifteen minutes. I checked the traffic to the beach on 511.org before I left, and it falsely showed yellow, just a little slowing. In real life, the line of cars started backing up on Highway 92 before I'd crested the mountain, and it was stop-and-go black almost to the coast road.
When at last the pumpkins came into view, I fantasized about driving my car through the field, smashing the lot of them. What insanity drives people to sit in such ridiculous traffic, just to pluck a pumpkin from a slightly muddy field, when they could buy one with their groceries at the supermarket for a lot less hassle? It defies comprehension. Needless to say, I was ready to scream by the time I pulled into the dirt lot at the Jetty. I knew the waves would be small there (and in fact had suggested relocating to a venue more open to the NW swell), but I needed to get wet ASAP and enjoy the company of my friends.
The traffic frustration started to wash off as soon as whitewater splashed my face on the paddle out, and disappeared with my first ride. We had fun party-waving the (at best) waist-high peelers. "Low Tide" John called me into waves with "Go, Flea!" The waves were tiny but offered shoulders, and I rode a bunch, almost all rights, despite being on my 7'0" when my friends were all on longboards. After Luke and then Heather and Eric left, Andy joined us, followed by Erin on her brand new surfboard when John switched off babysitting duties. The little girls rode my old 5'8" Xanadu Rocky in the whitewater. It was a gorgeous summer day in October, warm air and not-too-cold-water for a hoodless and gloveless experience, and I enjoyed the sensation of cold water flowing through my fingers once I got used to the shock of the chill. Waves, sun, friends - who could ask for anything more? (Well, some bigger waves, but that's what I get for hanging with longboarders!)
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| My old 5'8" Xanadu Rocky, resting on the beach in the left foreground |
ENE bump.
Posted on October 24th, 2011 in Long Reef.There is a small wave down at Longy this morning. 2 foot at best. Same from Narrabeen to Curly. Enjoy. Surf Photos of You
More Bumps
Posted on October 24th, 2011 in Manly.Another day of leftover 1-2ft NE windswell. 6.37am high tide was swallowing it up but like the last few days there’s been the odd fun little wave as the tide goes out. Surface is a bit bumpy but theres no wind right now.
Busy Week, In Byron Bay Today’s Weekend Review.
Posted on October 24th, 2011 in Byron.Nobody could deny it’s been a big week in Byron Bay. There have been plenty of waves but with many people wanting to sample it each and every day. As for the quality of it all, well the waves have been kind of ok. But it’s been a little hard for most due to the crowd factor in the bay. No not whinging folks, just telling the way it genuinely has been. It truly was a very busy week and the pickings as a result, were lean. Nobody really knows why or whether this is the new paradigm or not. Yet it seems the number of newcomers to surfing in the bay has increased a lot. So there have been just a few too many cooks tending the pot. Whatever it is that has been driving it, as always only time will tell. Meanwhile we’ll just keep doing our job, wait a while and see what happens with the next new swell, In Byron Bay Today. 
Not totally hopeless, just almost totally hopeless
Posted on October 23rd, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Hazy, mainly overcast morning with light south wind and a weak 7 second period east wind swell producing knee to waist high dribbles at Dee Why.
You’ll need to be extra keen, but at least it is not totally flat.
The wind should settle into a NE by mid-morning and be hammering along at 20-25 kts by close of play. We’re due for a rinse-and-repeat tomorrow, so there might possibly be a little more activity for early risers on Monday. And of course fans of onshore conditions should have a few opportunities this afternoon as the chop builds up.
There’s still a hope for some long period energy mid week. The modelling shows the peak happening toward the end of Wednesday and maybe lasting into Thursday morning. If it plays out as the forecast predicts, it could be very long period south swell into the shoulder to head high range on sets. Hey, we can dream can’t we?
Go well with your Sunday!
TIDES: L @1040 H @1650
Weather Situation
A stationary high pressure system over the northern Tasman Sea extends a ridge into northern New South Wales. This high is expected to weaken and drift east tonight as a cold front, currently well south of the Bight, approaches the region. This front is forecast to sweep across southeast Australia during Monday and Tuesday, bringing a southerly change to most of the New South Wales coast before it weakens into a trough over the north. Following this, the next high is forecast to move from the Bight to the Tasman Sea mid-week, establishing an onshore airstream.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Light and variable inshore at first, otherwise north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots increasing to 20 to 25 knots by evening.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Northeasterly 0.5 metres.
Monday 24 October
Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots around dawn then increasing to 15 to 25 knots by early evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre.
Tuesday 25 October
Winds
Southerly 10 to 15 knots during the morning tending south to southeasterly 10 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre tending southeasterly 1 to 2 metres from the morning.
More Wind Bumps
Posted on October 23rd, 2011 in Manly.Small leftover NE windswell pushing thigh to waist high on the freak sets. Like yesterday currently southerly offshore and grey but cloud and wind should burn off. Might actually be a wave on the outgoing tide (11:44 am low) but you never know with these kind of conditions. Usual story. Take something that floats.
Dull and close to flat to start Saturday
Posted on October 22nd, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Hope you had a nice sleep in this morning because the ocean did. Essentially no swell happening when I first looked at around 0630. And the outlook is for not much chance of an improvement until, oh, Monday.
The NE’r is set to arrive later, and I suppose that might shove up a scrappy little knee high chop at exposed spots by dusk. But I reckon you’d need to be more than keen.
Outlook is for the dire short period smallness to prevail across the weekend. And, if the swell forecast models are to be believed, the micro conditions will prevail until late in the coming week.
Surprise everybody by turning up unexpectedly at social events during daytime hours and rack yourself up a few brownie points.
Go well one and all!
Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the northern Tasman Sea will remain in position through the weekend, extending a ridge into northern New South Wales. A trough near the southern and central coasts is expected to weaken this afternoon. On Sunday night the high is expected to drift east as a cold front, currently well south of the Bight, approaches the region. This front is forecast to sweep across southeast Australia during Monday and Tuesday, bringing a stronger southerly change to most of the New South Wales coast before it weakens into a trough over the north.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds
Northeast to southeasterly 5 to 10 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon and 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Northeasterly 0.5 metres.
Sunday 23 October
Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots around dawn then tending north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots around midday.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 metres later in the evening.
Swell
Northeasterly 0.5 metres.
Monday 24 October
Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots tending north to northeasterly up to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre.
Tiny and Grey
Posted on October 22nd, 2011 in Manly.Barely a foot of leftover NE windswell with a light southerly wind and grey skies. So no reason to rush to the beach this weekend unfortunately. If you are desperate you’ll need a longboard or your smallest wave weapon and some luck.
A few little waves about for the keen
Posted on October 21st, 2011 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,
Lightly offshore with a small and messy NE wind swell this morning for the northern beaches. There were junky waist high plus things flopping over at Dee Why. They were looking a bit better at Northy, but the crowd factor was an issue. Sunny skies and little waves; could be worse!
Average swell height at sea is around the metre mark and the period is around 7 seconds.
Tide was low at 0820 and will hit a high at 1450 or so.
The wind is expected to swing NE and ramp up into a pretty standard late spring onshore of 10-20kts this afternoon. So, if you were able to winkle something out in your favourite north corner yesterday, I’d say you’ll be in with a chance for a repeat performance.
Have yourself a great Friday.
Weather Situation
A high pressure system lies to the east of the NSW coast and is expected to remain over the Tasman Sea until at least Sunday. A weak trough may bring a brief southerly change to southern parts of the coast later on Friday.
Forecast for Friday until midnight
Winds
Northerly 10 to 20 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots around midday then increasing to 10 to 20 knots by early evening.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly about 1 metre.
Saturday 22 October
Winds
North to northeasterly 5 to 15 knots tending northeast to southeasterly up to 10 knots in the early morning then tending north to northeasterly around midday. Winds increasing to north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 0.5 metres.
Sunday 23 October
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots decreasing to 10 to 15 knots during the morning then increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the evening.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 0.5 metres.


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