Archive for December 2011
Dee Why: Dismal
Posted on December 22nd, 2011 in Surf Reports.No matter how you look at it, it’s dismal. Flat, rainy and grey.
Longest Day Shortest Waves
Posted on December 22nd, 2011 in Manly.The longest day of the year aint giving you the longest waves. Tiny 1ft SE swell barely breaking on about 2 hightide sandbars. SE wind forecast to arrive to so despite all those hours of daylight to play with not much chance to ride anything. Low 1:25pm be patient…Santa swell coming
On the road(-ish) again
Posted on December 22nd, 2011 in At large.Hello Friends,
Visiting the ancestral homeland for the next little while. But before I get to that, a quick snapshot for you of this morning’s conditions in Sydney. At 0430 there was about a metre of SE swell at a touch under 8 seconds apart. High tide is at 0540 and the wind is set to be weakening from the SE. Not exactly awe-inspiring. In fact, if you can get a wave above waist high, I’d be impressed.
Here in Santa Barbara we have some little remnant NW swell this morning. It was waist to shoulder high yesterday though. Water temp’s about 14, so you know you’re in it! Anyway, herewith a couple snaps from the last two days. The Rincon picture was taken the day we arrived and you can probably see why I didn’t bother jumping in. The second shot was taken just south of there at La Conchita or Little Rincon (Mussel shoals on the map) where we found some occasionally fun little waves yesterday.
Hope to have a few more snaps to share in coming days…
In the meantime, go well and have fun!


Come In Spinner, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on December 22nd, 2011 in Byron, Surf Reports.So as we all go for the grovel surf and try to make the most of a tiny swell, in Byron Bay today. All eyes are set on the Coral Sea waiting to see what may be on the way. It hasn’t been named yet, but the chances are that the extra tropical low out there is about to become the first cyclone of the season. Of course, what course it then takes determines what we’ll get. If it charges straight towards us, then it’s a just a big mess of onshore winds and short period lumpy bits. But if we’re lucky enough that it stays in deep water and spins for a bit while tracking to the south to south east. Well then we may just get blessed over much of the east coast just in time for Christmas, In Byron Bay Today. 
word from the south…
Posted on December 21st, 2011 in Surf Reports.Hard to get excited about an 8 second period, but with the right equipment and a lot of determination, you can go surfing today
Take a log
Posted on December 21st, 2011 in Manly.Weak 1ft or so waves from the SE being eaten by the early high tide. Might improve as the tide runs out to a midday low but you’ll still need some foam for the attack. Probably a touch bigger at more south exposed spots.
Good Day For A Swim, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on December 21st, 2011 in Byron.Just one of those days I’m afraid, sure the weather was nice if hot and windy is your thing. But as far as the waves go, well let’s just say it was a good day for a swim, in Byron Bay today. The wind was up the tide was out, the swell had dropped and the waves were either blown out or closing out depending on where you looked. The water was clear and warm and worth a dip, and a really good sized shark kept leaping out of the water and scaring the daylights out of a the few that spotted it, which was kind of a trip, In Byron Bay Today. 
Summery, In Byron Bay Today.
Posted on December 20th, 2011 in Byron, Surf Reports.It was just a very summery kinda day in the bay. Light sea breezes in the morn, giving way to a northerly blow this arvo, a few blueys a couple of gumbies, and not quite enough car parks, in Byron bay today. Yes indeed the school holidays have begun and Huey has finally decided to show a little sun. Not a whole lot of waves though, but you take what you get, and let go of the rest. There is even a slight chance of a Christmas swell on the way as well. Don’t get your hopes up yet, but there is a low of Papua New Guinea that is slowly moving our way. The boys at the bureau reckon there’s a chance it may begin to spin just before Christmas day. So if we’re really lucky and Huey is feeling generous we just be celebrating as some summery lines wrap around the cape, In Byron Bay Today. 
Go Soon
Posted on December 20th, 2011 in Manly.1-2ft of East lines cruising into Manly. A brisk SSW wind has things clean for now but it should swing further south and SE soon so need to get out there now and most likely with a longboard. Actually order a longboard from Surfboards Direct before Thursday and if you live in Manly I’ll guarantee a delivery before Xmas!
Grey and small again
Posted on December 19th, 2011 in Dee Why.
Hello Friends,
Primary swell direction switched suddenly last night from SE to NE. It’s actually a touch larger out at sea, but the average period has dropped from 9 seconds to just 6. And that means it’s weak and gutless and small. So small in fact, that when I first checked it around 0730, there were no people in the water at Dee Why.
Wind is set to come up from the NE before long. Low tide is about 0850 and it doesn’t look as though it’s likely to improve much – if at all.
Outlook for the next few days appears to be for more short period wind swell. Early mornings look to be the best shot.
Meanwhile your correspondent is about to head off to the other side of the planet where it’s winter time and my fingers are crossed that the forecast for good waves upon my arrival will pan out. Stay tuned!
Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the southern Tasman Sea extends a ridge to the New South Wales north coast. A broad low pressure trough is gradually moving across the state. The trough is expected to bring a southerly change to the south coast later on Monday, extending to the north during Tuesday, where it is expected to remain for a few days.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
North to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre.
Weather
Isolated thunderstorms from the late morning.
Tuesday 20 December
Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots ahead of a southerly change 15 to 25 knots during the morning.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre.
Wednesday 21 December
Winds
Southerly 10 to 20 knots decreasing to below 10 knots during the evening.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly about 1 metre.


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