Period’s crept up a bit to above 9 seconds and average size of the east wind swell is about 2 metres. Coming back from the airport about 1000, I sauntered along a few beaches for a look. Definitely some head high plus specimens to be had, but swell is peaky and surprisingly gutless a lot of the time. Take the fish I’d say. Not much wind late morning either.
(above)Between Queensy & North Steyne: This was the best moment from a typical wave. Sort of flabby take off, followed by some weirdness before this section stood up. By the time he got to the lip there was pretty much nothing left and he fell off.
(above)Much the same story down the beach at North Steyne. You could get a few turns, but despite the size, there weren’t that many opportunities for a driving section.
(above) About 20 people packed onto suck-up at Dee Why. Water looked pretty ordinary and it seemed that the rip was running through the take-off zone. Very messy and junky.
(above) This pic kinda shows the life of a typical set wave this morning at Northy. Outside where you take off, it can look alright, but by the time you get to the middle bloke’s position, it looked like the wave would go away (many did), before starting to stand up for the run into shorey.
