At around midnight the swell started thundering in. We could hear it a couple k’s inland, so I knew without looking at the buoy data, that it must be pretty big. Sure enough from right on midnight the average height of the swell at sea jumped from 3 to 4 metres, but the peak size went from 5 to 8 metres and the all important period leapt from 9 to 13 seconds.
This morning sees some respite from the wind (at 0730 it was lightly offshore) for the early and surface conditions were quite clean. There were only a few people out at Dee Why point chasing waves with triple overhead wave faces – and trying to avoid the bombs.
SE swell direction plus offshores and a dropping tide make for a promising morning outlook – if you are at the top of your game. The wind is set to swing SW and to come back up into the 20-30 kt range this afternoon.
Today is peak day for the swell according to the models. But we should have energy to play with right through to the Saturday.
A low pressure system lies over the southeastern Tasman Sea and a high south of the Bight extends a ridge to the Coral Sea. Between these two slow-moving systems, much of the New South Wales coast is experiencing vigorous south to southwesterly winds, enhanced by a trough linked to the low. Winds are expected to ease gradually by Friday as both systems weaken.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Southwesterly 20 to 25 knots increasing up to 30 knots in the late afternoon.
1.5 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Southeasterly 3 to 4 metres.
The chance of thunderstorms. Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Thursday 2 August
Southwesterly 25 to 30 knots decreasing to 15 to 25 knots in the morning.
Up to 3 metres decreasing below 1.5 metres during the afternoon then decreasing to below 1 metre later in the evening.
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Friday 3 August
West to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots.
Below 1 metre increasing up to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Southeasterly about 2 metres.