Hello Friends,
After weeks of minor to flat, we have a rugged looking south swell rolling in this morning. The Bureau tells us it’ll build – a prediction reinforced by the Eden buoy which was showing more than 4 metres at 12 seconds as Sunday kicked off. Here in Sydney early risers were greeted with the consequences of a three metre, 10-second period south swell.
Wind is due to be around 20-30 kts from the S to SW, so expect bump (see the pics).
Tide was low at 0600 and will come up by less than a metre to the 1230 high.
According to the Bureau and the various swell modelling efforts out there, the energy levels will remain impressive for a couple more days. Tomorrow the wind is supposed to back off in the late morning. Could be good…
The week is shaping up pretty reasonably for our stretch of coast. While today and tomorrow will be the peak, there should be something left for Tuesday am, before we have a couple day’s breather ahead of something potentially very big out of the deep southern ocean on Friday.
Go well and have fun!
Weather Situation
A deepening low pressure system over the Tasman Sea extends a trough to the northern New South Wales coast, while a high south of the Bight strengthens a ridge across the state’s west. A vigorous southerly airstream between these systems is expected to ease later today as the low moves rapidly away to the east. The high is expected to become the dominant feature in the region during the next day or two, decaying early in the week as a broad trough develops. The next significant frontal system appears likely to affect the state during the second half of the week.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
South to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots, reaching 40 knots offshore during the morning.
Seas
3 to 4 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres increasing to 3 to 4 metres this evening.
Weather
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.
Monday 8 October
Winds
Southerly 15 to 25 knots decreasing to variable about 10 knots in the morning.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing to below 1 metre around dawn.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres.
Weather
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore in the early morning.
Tuesday 9 October
Winds
Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to easterly about 10 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 3 metres decreasing to 1 metre during the evening.
2nd Swell
Southeasterly 1 metre.
