Hello Friends,
Not too fabulous looking from over the horizon. At 0500 there was a 6 second period NE windswell of about 1.5 metres dribbling into the pre-dawn beaches of Sydney. Wind was a faint northerly, but it will soon begin the gradual daylight hours migration around to the NE before a SW change rattles through this evening.
And the forecast is still calling for it to be a hot one. Temps are set to hit 39 later.
You might find a little knee high peak at exposed spots, but much above that will be a matter of luck. Outlook according to this morning’s run of the swell forecast models is for flat to small/marginal for the next week as there really isn’t much of anything going on in our usual swell supply areas.
Same situation applies in southern California but there is some swell in prospect for the weekend. In fact, it’s looking like being big enough to trigger the Mavericks contest. Whether we get much of anything down the coast in Santa Barbara is an open question…
Go well and stay cool!
Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea is slowly moving east maintaining a weakening ridge to New South Wales north coast. During Friday afternoon a cold front will bring gusty southerly change to the south coast, extending to the central coast later in the evening and to the far north coast Saturday afternoon. Another high is expected to move east of Tasmania on Sunday gradually strengthening a ridge along the coast.
Forecast for Friday until midnight
Winds
North to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots shifting south to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots in the evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres later in the evening.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.
Weather
The chance of thunderstorms late this evening.
Saturday 19 January
Winds
Southerly 20 to 30 knots tending south to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots in the morning.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Easterly about 1.5 metres.
Sunday 20 January
Winds
Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to variable about 10 knots during the morning.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly about 1.5 metres.
