on saturday at noon: long, slow, clean, 2 – 4 footers, at our rivermouth point – i jumped in at the southern pools – easy paddleout – end of swell, slightly mushy, but very rideable, gentle descents – well-populated by civilized folk – 4 quick waves, and i was back in, with cold hands but otherwise glowing – stormy conditions holding through early week, so new swells abounding !! -*****- if this is my day of harvest, in what fields have i sowed the seed, and in what unremembered seasons? – k gibran – twitter mercuryloge 🙂
