I got a theory that dawn surf sessions have one good one then one crap one and sometimes I get on the wrong side of the draw. Today looks like the good one as the shape looked really good, the 3ft walls were holding up and the crowd was thinner than yesterday – and I wasn’t out dammit. Maybe better out than in? Anyone if my theory proves that means a lot more people will be back chasing it tomorrow and it wont be as good. Hope not cause I just can’t help but need to go tomorrow now.
Mark – Surfboards Direct
