Woohoo! Way bigger than I’d anticipated this morning. At 0730 the MHL buoy data was showing a mix of 10 sec SE and 13 sec S swell at nearly the 3 metre mark. Dee Why beach and the point were both well attended. Wind was light and mainly offshore. As you can see from the pics, the conditions are lumpy and raw, so this isn’t a beautifully groomed winter swell, but at least it’s solidly overhead on sets. Given the swell direction, there ought to be any number of options around this morning.
The Bureau tells us that it’ll go onshore soon and then stay that way until the wee small hours of tomorrow morning when a stiffening NE’r is due to create strong wind warning conditions for Monday.
A small low pressure system well off the central NSW coast is tracking northeastwards further out into the Tasman Sea with south to southeasterly winds in its wake. A high pressure system to the southeast of Tasmania extends a ridge towards the southern NSW coast ahead of the next trough which is expected to cross the NSW coast on Tuesday. North to northeasterly winds are expected to strengthen over most waters during Monday or early Tuesday as this trough approaches.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots turning easterly in the afternoon.
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre around midday.
Easterly 1.5 metres.
Monday 16 September
Strong wind warning for Monday for Sydney Coastal Waters
Easterly 10 to 15 knots tending northeasterly 15 to 25 knots before dawn then increasing to 20 to 30 knots in the late afternoon.
1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres around midday.
Easterly 1.5 metres, tending northeasterly 1.5 metres around midday.
Tuesday 17 September
Northerly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 15 to 20 knots during the morning then turning west to northwesterly during the day.
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing below 1.5 metres during the morning.
Northeasterly 1.5 metres, tending easterly 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
The chance of thunderstorms.