Grey old day with junky south swell

Posted by: on January 7th, 2014

El junko

Keenman
Hello Friends,

Well harumph is all I can say. Swell did come up overnight as predicted, but unfortunately, they were right about the wind as well and at 0600 it was blowing 10-20 kts from the south across the Sydney region. Might be a plan to head south though, because, at least when I was writing this, wind direction is showing as SW from about Wattamolla southward to Ulladulla.

Dee Why was looking pretty bleak when I first spied it from the RealSurf crow’s nest this morning. Grey skies, the odd passing shower, relentless southerly and lumpy, bumpy torn up chest to shoulder high stuff heaving about along the beach. A few bods were trying their hand at the point, but it too was really messy and ‘orrible looking. Betcha there’ll be a lot’ve surfers fetched up in the cafes this morning.

Wind is supposed to ease back as the day goes along and by tomorrow the call is for about 10 kts SE. There should still be some swell about so maybe we’ll get a bit luckier than this morning…

Long range models are projecting a steady supply of generally south to SE swell over the remainder of the week. The big problem will be the onshores. At this stage Wed-Fri looks as though they might be marginal to okay for the early…

Have yourself a great Tuesday one and all!

Tide low at 0745 and high at 1350

Weather Situation
A high pressure system south of the Bight extends a ridge into New South Wales, while a low over the Tasman Sea links with a trough in Queensland. The high will move slowly eastwards during the next few days, strengthening a ridge along the New South Wales coast as a trough deepens over the state’s west. By Thursday the high is expected to be over the Tasman Sea, where it should remain through to the weekend. This should push the inland trough steadily west until it is collected by a passing cold front during Saturday and shifts to the Tasman Sea.
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds
South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots easing to 10 to 15 knots in the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre by evening.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Wednesday 8 January
Winds
Southeasterly about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Thursday 9 January
Winds
Easterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to about 10 knots during the morning then increasing to 10 to 15 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.

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