Hello Friends,
As of 0200 the MHL buoy was showing 1.3 metres of 9-second period south swell. As I wrote this at around 0500, wind was a steady 10 kts from the ESE and the next tide was the high at 0645. There should be some waist plus sets at magnet spots, but the wind will be an issue and the high tide won’t help either. Plus, the Bureau says we can expect the swell to fade during the day. Argh.
It looks like very tiny conditions for the next few days. Tomorrow’s shaping to be really little but Friday could maybe see a small uptick into the waist plus range as the swell perks from the NE and the morning sees stiffish offshores.
Another quiet day on the surf front in southern Cali as we wait for the arrival of swell tomorrow. Went for a stroll along a beach west of Santa Barbara yesterday afternoon. It’s a spot-rich but swell-poor stretch of coast that is flat most of the time, but with the right swell direction (as is forecast for tomorrow…) it can light up very nicely indeed.
Weather Situation
A high pressure system centred near Victorian coast extends a ridge into New South Wales resulting in a fairly weak pressure pattern. A weak trough will decay in the north today as the high shifts east to the Tasman Sea and becomes dominant. This is forecast to bring a return to generally northerly winds during the second half of the week, increasing Thursday and Friday as the next trough approaches from the west.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
- Winds
- Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots turning northeasterly 15 to 20 knots in the afternoon.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres.
- Swell
- Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre by early evening.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.
Thursday 20 November
- Winds
- North to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore in the evening.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
- Swell
- Northeast to southeasterly around 1 metre.
- Weather
- Mostly sunny.
Friday 21 November
- Winds
- Northerly 15 to 25 knots tending northwest to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning, before shifting southerly during the evening.
- Seas
- 1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
- Swell
- Northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore during the morning.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.
