Hello Friends
At 0500 the MHL buoy was showing a metre of E swell with a period of 11 seconds. So we have about the same energy levels as yesterday at the same time, but the swell’s not coming from the SE. Wind at report time was light and west; it’s set to go north to NE by this afternoon. The morning tide is a high at 0830.
A run around the check out spots revealed healthy crowds in the water at Northy and from Longy to No Mans. Set waves were into the shoulder plus range, although overall I’d call it waist to chest. If you’re keen and patient with your fellow surfers, you should definitely be able to snag a few this morning.
Outlook is very much in line with the Goat’s prediction – according to the models. Wind is set to be northerly through Monday at this stage, while swell should be about the same tomorrow and then up a bit more on Monday. Swell looks like being southerly across the coming week and bit bigger. Magnets could be into the head range on bombs by late in the week. And if the models have it right, we should also be seeing offshores.
Weather Situation
A high pressure ridge over the coast is weakening while a low pressure system is deepening in the Bight. Winds along coastal waters will shift more northerly and gradually strengthen during Saturday and Sunday as a trough and associated cold front approach from the west. This system is expected to bring a gusty westerly wind change as it crosses the coast during Monday, reinforced by the passage of a second cold front on Tuesday.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds
North to northeast about 10 knots increasing to 10 to 15 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to around 1 metre by early evening.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Sunday 8 May
Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy. 40% chance of rain.
Monday 9 May
Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots turning northwesterly 20 to 30 knots during the evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy. 60% chance of rain.