"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris
rincon

Postcards from Cali: Rincons

rincon
Even somewhat awkward people can get nice ones at Rincon

Hello Friends,
Another day on caregiver duty but at least I could look at the fresh pulse in swell we got overnight in southern California. We have two metre tide swings right now, so it goes from being almost too fat and full to surf, to crunchy in hours. I stopped at La Conchita and Rincon and both were delivering fun looking waves, especially Rincon. The Queen of the Coast as it’s sometimes called was chest to head and a bit at low tide. Crowd was moderate to lightly nuts, but I reckon most competent surfers coulda scored something. Swell angle was pretty good, but not absolutely perfect. Walled up, zippery things were coming in at the Cove and running an easily makeable 200 metres. Some were closer to twice as long. Your corespondent was feeling pretty sad about not being able to get in the water.
Tomorrow’s the weekend here, so Rincon will no doubt rival Superbank for crowds…
(I shot a couple of video sequences, so if they work out, I’ll share later)
Sydney looks ENE for wind now and there don’t seem to be any waves to speak of thanks to only a very tiny SE swell.
Looks like the NEr could pick up a little tomorrow, so maybe that’ll induce a tiny bit more energy for you, but overall it’s shaping to be a quiet weekend surfwise. Maybe early next week…

Coming into the top of the cove at low tide rincon this afternoon
la conchita
La Conchita super fun for longboards and not many out earlier today