Plenty of swell

Posted by: on August 31st, 2017

Hello Friends,
At 0600 the MHL buoy was detecting 3.76m of 10-sec SSE swell and as you can see from the pics, wave faces were probably into that range along the beach and not far off it at the point. Plus, the Bureau is telling us to expect it to peak around midday. So, those bomb sets aren’t likely to back off anytime soon. Apart from the challenge of the size and raw look to the swell, we can expect the wind to go southerly soon and be 20-30 kts. However if you were in the water by 0700 when I grabbed the pictures, wind was still offshore at around 10 kts.
Tide hits low at 0910 and then will be back to a moderate 1.4m high at 1555.
Weather should be sunny with a high of 17 for the last day of winter.
The Goat should roll out a forecast later today, so I’ll just observe that from my reading of the models, it looks like waves through the weekend.
Have a great Thursday and check back later because I may get a few more snaps of today’s surf…

Hefty set arrives at the point 0700

Some clean ones on the inside

Up the beach looking too big to surf

Weather Situation
A high pressure system near Tasmania extends a ridge into New South Wales, while a low is deepening over the Tasman Sea. Together, these systems are generating fresh to strong southerly winds over coastal waters, and an increasing swell. Winds will gradually ease tonight and Friday as the low loses influence and the high drifts east. Winds are forecast to turn northerly on Saturday ahead of the next front, expected to cross the state on Sunday.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Southerly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres inshore, increasing to 3 to 4 metres offshore around midday.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Friday 1 September
Winds
Southerly 15 to 25 knots decreasing to 10 to 15 knots in the evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres around midday.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 20% chance of a shower in the morning.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Saturday 2 September
Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the day then tending northerly during the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 2 metres, tending southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres during the morning.
Weather
Sunny.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions in the early morning are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

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