Swell pushing in on Wednesday morning

Posted by: on December 6th, 2017

Hello Friends,
Wind was coming from the SW at 5-10 kts as of 0730. Swell was coming from the north east and the south, but the latter was the dominant note at 3 metres and about 10 seconds apart. Tide is coming into another very deep 2 metres at 1100, so the current full looking conditions aren’t going to improve until mid-afternoon. By then the wind could be around to the northerly quarters and the southerly component of the swell starting to fade.
So, a complex picture but one dominated by a very high tide.
Dee Why was showing chest to head high faces on the bomb sets, but as you can see from the pics, the conditions weren’t particularly clean. There were waves along the beach as well which, if anything looked to be bigger on average than at the point. Again, quality is not too impressive, but the energy is there. Outlook across the next few days is for the energy to gradually fade toward small to marginal by late Saturday-Sunday morning.
I’ll try to update later in the day and in the meantime, have a good one!

Not exactly clean, but you could catch ’em at 0715

The point crew in attendance at 0720

Just north of Kiddies at 0720

Waves bouncing off North Head

Lion Island indicator showing a little activity

Weather Situation

A low pressure lies off the New South Wales coast, and a low pressure circulation within the trough is moving southwards. This low is expected to deepen off the south coast later today as it quickly moves away from New South Wales towards the southern ocean. During Thursday, the trough will move east and lose its influence, allowing winds to turn north to northeasterly throughout as a front approaches from the west. This front is forecast to bring a southerly change to the New South Wales coast during Friday and Saturday.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Wednesday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds shifting westerly during the morning then northeast to northwesterly in the afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre, decreasing to 0.5 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
East to northeasterly 2 to 2.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre by early evening.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers inshore, 20% chance elsewhere. The chance of a thunderstorm this afternoon.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Thursday 7 December

Winds
Northwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending northeasterly 15 to 20 knots in the late morning.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
1st Swell
Easterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Friday 8 December

Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots becoming variable about 10 knots during the day then becoming southerly 15 to 25 knots during the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 30% chance of a shower. The chance of a thunderstorm.

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